just got my motive power bleeder and will attempt this weekend BUT I've read posts that offers different bleed sequences.....RR vs LR first, outer vs inner first, which is correct? or does it really matter?

 

I did a series of tests on this in the past specifically for this forum... the order does not matter.

I did the tests on my own 70 with power brakes, and the order had no affect whatsoever on the quality of the work or the performance of the system.

I bled the lines in various order, each time starting with an empty system.

 

thanks for the answer......I'll do it your way

 

RR inner
RR outer
LR inner
LR outer
RF
LF

Has always worked for me. Others say to bleed the left rear first, but my choice is to begin with the farthest from the master cylinder.

 

The book says:

LR-inner
LR-outer
RR-inner
RR-outer
LF
RF

Yes, it seems like an odd sequence but it works.

 

i tried all that stuff too, and it didn't seem to make much difference, especially with a pressure bleeder. what i did notice was that when flushing the system, opening bleeders from the shortest to the longest lines seemed to use less fluid.

 

Bureau of Automotive Repair Brake Inspection and Repair Manual that I read indicated that hydraulic fluid brake systems need to be bled starting with the caliper which is furthest away and/or lowest from the master cylinder. But, this is for when you bleed the system using the pedal which pressurizes the system then creates a mild vacuum. The mild vacuum (as when the system is in normal use) when the pedal is released will pull air bubbles into the system from any leaks which are too small to allow fluid to escape but large enough for air to enter. The air bubbles tend to flow toward the master cylinder where the vacuum is created; thus, if one of the calipers further away is leaking air bubbles into the system, but hasn't been bled yet then when one of the calipers closer to the master cylinder may show air bubbles even if that caliper is still good.

Like I always say in these brake bleeding posts...bleeding hydraulic systems is a diagnostic procedure as well as a system set-up procedure. If you don't apply a vacuum in the system like that which appears when the brake pedal is used in normal driving, then you won't be able to detect where air is getting into the system and your brakes will never work the way they should. Our brake systems are excellent if all the parts are in good shape...proper diagnostics via bleeding techniques can keep them there.

 

The purpose of bleeding the brakes is to get the air out. I like to attach a clear plastic hose to the bleeder and watch the fluid as it comes out. Before doing it this way, I bleed until fluid came out and I thought I was good to go. You would be surprised how much air was still in the fluid after attaching the hose. It took several more pedal pushes to get a clear fluid. The kit I bought was about $4 and comes with an adapter for the bleeder and a small bottle to store the fluid that comes out.

 

That would be the One Man Bleeder kit which has a magnet on the bottle so it can be attached to the rotor...you need to watch the hose while pumping...the bottle is too small in my opinion, but the design is great.