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Is there any simple procedure to eliminate or reduce steering play? I don't want to get into a full rebuild now--the steering box will probably be rebuilt next winter, anyway--but just looking for a quick adjustment to make the rest of the season more enjoyable. :D
BTW, the steering play isn't that bad, but now that the suspension is good and the car does what I want, the little things start to annoy me... next I guess I'll try to fix the windshield washer and the door ajar light... :crazy: and the seat belt buzzer... NOT!!!! :jester
Hi Guys! The November 1998 Issue of Corvette Fever Magazine( Page 80) had an article titled "A Little Work and No Play" ...detailed instructions for steering adjustments. Hope this helps!
Bruce
Thanks for the info. Unfortunately I don't have that issue (I wasn't a Vette owner back in '98--not even in my dreams! ). Would it be possible for you to scan the article for us? I'd really appreciate it!
Chris,
I tried the search, but couldn't find anything, and the Archives don't go back too far... Did you have any luck?
Pedro, No scanner available at the moment, so I jumped out to http://www.corvettefever.com. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to track the article down out there, although they had "Tech Article" search capability. I'll see if I can find it in a "post-able" format.
Bruce
there is an article (I believe it is by Jim Shea) titled "Steering Gear Adjustment (on the vehicle). I tried this, and couldnt really make the first adjustment, but I got a lot of improvement in my steering via the second adjustment - the lock nut and screw on top of the steering box. (lash?). The danger (and my fear) is that I may have overtightened the steering box which will damage it. MJ
Thanks, Mark! I'll have to download it and print it tomorrow at school, since I don't have Word here on my computer. I think that procedure for adjusting that screw on top of the steering box is precisely what I'm looking for. I remember Ganey posted a very simple procedure once, long long time ago.
Taking up the lash in your steering box is a fairly simple procedure, however, there is one aspect of it that is important. The adjustment should be made when the gearbox is on its high point. By that, I mean that the steering gear should be in the mid point of its travel, lock to lock. To check that, jack up the front of the car so that the front wheels just clear the ground. Now center the front wheels, i.e. turn the steering wheel until the road wheels are pointing straight ahead. When the steering box is centered, there should be the same number of turns of the steerig wheel from straight ahead all the way to the left as there are from straight ahead all the way to the right. Don't pay any attention to whether or not the steering wheel is in the correct position when the steering box is centered. You can fix that later, if it isn't. Once you've determined the center position of the steering box, loosen the lock nut on the adjustment bolt, which is located in the center of the steering box cover. Turning the adjustment bolt clockwise removes lash, i.e. play in the steering box. Make incremental adjustments in the bolt and check the feel of the steering by turning the wheel lock to lock. If there's significant wear in your steering box, you may discover that you run out of threads on the adjustment bolt before you feel much difference. On the other hand, if you tighten the adustment bolt too much, you'll find there's a point in the travel of the wheel from lock to lock where the steering seems to bind. Back off the adjustment if that happens. If I recall correctly, the AIM gives a very specific torque reading that a correctly adjusted steering box should exhibit when tested with a torque wrench, with the box disconnected from the steering. Most people I know, myself included, simply adjust it until they like the feel of the steering. I encourage you to be very careful when making the adjustment to avoid removing so much lash that the steering binds. Be sure to test the steering before you drive the car. Of course, all this assumes that you've already eliminated all the other sources of play in the steering. Otherwise, you're wasting your time.
Thanks a bunch! I'll give it a try some time this week.
What are the other possible culprits? It seems to me that everything but the idler arm (which is brand new) is original. Some things will be replaced in the winter project (e.g. tie rod ends). How do I check for a bad rag joint?
To check the flexible coupling you are looking for lost motion where the laminated rubber disc may be worn out. You should also look for wear on the stop pins that extend rearward toward the steering column. If the stop pins have wear, your steering column is most likely not aligned to your steering gear. The coupling is designed to take up a slight angle between the column and gear. It will not take up misalignment (i.e. the column not pointing at the gear). I thought that Terry Rudy had my paper on the flexible coupling posted at his websight: http://www.corvettefaq.com. However, I cannot find it. I will send it on to him for posting. In the meantime, if you want it, send me your eMail address and I will send it along.
There is another article at the corvettefaq websight on trouble shooting your key buzzer switch. That one may help you with your other problem. Look under Suspension and Steering.
Thanks for your response. I think I found the paper you mentioned, along with many others. I've already downloaded and printed them, and will read them carefully before I try anything.
I took a quick look at the papers... Awesome! Great stuff! I'll read them more carefully later, and in the weekend I'll try to figure out what is causing the slack, and try to correct it.
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