79 with NO FIRE?????
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Joined: Mar 2006
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From: Ft Hood TEXAS
79 with NO FIRE?????
Well, I finally got my 76 running pretty good but now my neighbor's 79 is dead. We were trying to get it started after about a month of sitting but no luck. I know that it is getting fuel but apparently, there is no fire. At first I thought that the coil might be bad. To make a long storry short, we replaced everything from the distributor to the plug wires. Still no fire. Please help someone. I want to get back to work on my Baby. Thanks all.....
Glen.....
Glen.....
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Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Long Island NY
Work your way back from the plug wires.
Pull one of the plug wires and stick a screwdriver on the end then place it a 1/4" from frame ground. You should see a nice spark to ground. If not, then you got a electrical (spark) problem. Easy to fix. If you see a spark then it is either a timing or carb/intake problem. Plugs?
Dave..
Pull one of the plug wires and stick a screwdriver on the end then place it a 1/4" from frame ground. You should see a nice spark to ground. If not, then you got a electrical (spark) problem. Easy to fix. If you see a spark then it is either a timing or carb/intake problem. Plugs?
Dave..
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,126
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From: Hudson Falls, N.Y. 76 Vette Modified L-48
Also, did the neighbor do any work on the car during that month, or did it just sit? Stuff doesn't usually change condition by "just sitting"...can you elongate the story a bit??
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From: Ft Hood TEXAS
He says that the car just sat. There is 12 volts at the coul. That was the first thing that I checked. However there is nothing coming out. No spark at the cap, plugs, plug wires, nothing. How could this happen?
Racer
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 478
Likes: 56
From: Woodstock Georgia
Originally Posted by hotwater
He says that the car just sat. There is 12 volts at the coul. That was the first thing that I checked. However there is nothing coming out. No spark at the cap, plugs, plug wires, nothing. How could this happen?
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2006
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From: Ft Hood TEXAS
Originally Posted by ESC3
Come on,fess up!You used the neighbors Distributor to get yours running
Racer
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 401
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From: IL
Not sure if your using the stock HEI but this works on just about everything but DIS on new cars. Using a standard circuit tester, screwdriver type handle with bulb inside, clamp the aligator clip to a good chassis ground. Then touch (the pointed tip) the circuit tester to the negative side of the coil, crank the engine, it should flash on and off while cranking. This indicates the points or magnetic p/u are working and you need to check out/replace the coil next. If it doesn't flash it's the points or magnet p/u or ignition module.
The stock HEI uses an ignition module under the rotor, remove it and have it checked at the local parts store (most still have the testers). The circuit tester trick still works on these also, but only with a working module. Check the wires to the pick up coil wires to see if their brittle or already broken. Heat makes them brittle over time.
Note, make sure the silicone washer (O.E. HEI) between the coil and cap is lubed up well. The small packet of Dielectric Grease is not enough to provide adequate insulation between the two. Have had quite a few instances where this simple thing has kicked my a**.
Have fun,
Later.
The stock HEI uses an ignition module under the rotor, remove it and have it checked at the local parts store (most still have the testers). The circuit tester trick still works on these also, but only with a working module. Check the wires to the pick up coil wires to see if their brittle or already broken. Heat makes them brittle over time.
Note, make sure the silicone washer (O.E. HEI) between the coil and cap is lubed up well. The small packet of Dielectric Grease is not enough to provide adequate insulation between the two. Have had quite a few instances where this simple thing has kicked my a**.
Have fun,
Later.