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All went well hauling the engine in my S10 on top of a tire. Although the poor S10 was crippled (pos). I'm pretty happy with it from the looks of the engine, of course that doesn't always paint the whole picture. Basically I got a running (well) 454 with a bad starter for $1200. Not bad at ALL.
I do have a couple questions though:
1. What is the difference in clutch diameter and splines? Which one do I need. It's expensive, but is a Centerforce Dual Friction probably a good choice for an engine with this much power?
2. I hate Chevy orange, don't ask me why, I just don't. I'd like to paint the block black. Could I power wash and strip the paint off and paint it as it is? Or does the block have to be disassembled to do something like that?
This has got be incredibly excited to get my car running. All I need now is headers, clutch, and driveshaft.
Maybe its just me....but the chains on the valve covers must hurt them pretty bad.....and the engine resting on the oil pan? Maybe I'm being overcautious..but anyway...I don't see any reason why you couldn't paint the block fully assembled. Sure it won't do a PERFECT job but if you take your time you could get very close. And I truly agree with you that a black block looks way better than an orange one....at least they're not blue like fords.
The chains aren't actually touching the valve covers believe it or not. And yes the engine rested on the oil pan on the tire for about 2 minutes until it got on the engine stand. It travelled 100 miles on the tire, I dont think it would destroy it to sit there for a week even
Good luck with the 454. If it has the long water pump you can still use it but the mechanical fan will not work. You will need 2 electric fans. For a clutch the 11 inch is the largest possible but if your bellhousing is from a camaro it will only take a 10 or 10 1/2 inch. The 1 ton truck bellhousings from 80 and up works fine. I went with a hydraulic setup from a 85 1 ton. Everything fit fine except for a little floor clearance for the hydraulic slave cyl inder. I don't mind the chevy orange. Black is too dull. With careful cleaning and scuffing with sand paper you can repaint without removing everything. The intake would look nice removed and bead blasted.
Good luck
Norval
RE: Paint... Power washing is a good first step... then sand off any scale and wash it down with lacquer thinner or enamel reducer. Keep the solvent off any plastic parts (if there are any). This is to get the oil/grease off. Power washing will not remove it all well enough for paint to stick for any length of time. I have found that paint will not stay on an engine very long if it has rust on it (duh). The blocks that I sandblast retain the paint very well. Plasti-kote has a (relatively) new product on the market... engine enamel "priimer". I just finished the first engine where I used the primer and then the enamel top coat. I am starting the second one this week... a 305 that will be bored .030. Tearing it down this morning. So... the verdict is not in yet on the primer. Thick coats of engine enamel applied directly over old paint has a tendency to "lift" up and fall off in large chunks. You may want to consider the primer, at least for any bare metal areas. Painting assembled engines is a common practice.