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71 won't stay running

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Old Jul 30, 2006 | 08:12 PM
  #1  
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Default 71 won't stay running

My carb died on my 71 350. I bought a restored and "tested" carb from one of the vette catalogs. I put it on and it will start but won't stay running, even if you try to pump the gas. Then, it won't restart. It seems like it's running out of gas. Adjusting the float and mixture screws doesn't help. The motor is fresh. I put several hundred miles on it using the original carb, but I knew it needed to be replaced. Any ideas? Thanks a lot.
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Old Jul 30, 2006 | 09:32 PM
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Have you checked your fuel pump?
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Old Jul 30, 2006 | 09:46 PM
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You say it will start, but won't stay running...how long does it run before it dies? ...can you keep it running by reving it?
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Old Jul 30, 2006 | 11:57 PM
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Everything including the fuel pump is new. It only runs about 5 seconds. Pumping the gas doesn't help.
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Old Jul 31, 2006 | 12:43 AM
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Compare the size of the Main jets/rods and Secondary rods (including the letter stamped on the secondary rod hanger) against the new carb ...they may not be marked on the new one.

If they match then I would return the carb
If they dont match I would swap them over from the old carb to the new one since these parts dont wear out, set the float and hopefully it will be ok

I havnt heard many sucess stories as far as buying Rebuilt carbs from auto parts stores or online. They seem to go by the motto that "one size fits all".... usually they never run worth a $hit
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Old Jul 31, 2006 | 08:52 AM
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after it stops running and wont start...look down the carb throat and manually work the gas linkage/lever...is it spraying a fine mist...if it isnt,the its a fuel supply problem...is it dumping LOTS of fuel into your carb...then it s a carb problem...look with the car running to see if its getting to much fuel,which will shut it down just as dead. Careful,dont put your face over a running carb.
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Old Jul 31, 2006 | 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by ghoastrider1
after it stops running and wont start...look down the carb throat and manually work the gas linkage/lever...is it spraying a fine mist...if it isnt,the its a fuel supply problem...is it dumping LOTS of fuel into your carb...then it s a carb problem...look with the car running to see if its getting to much fuel,which will shut it down just as dead. Careful,dont put your face over a running carb.

First determine if it's starving for fuel or flooding.
If you look down the carb after it dies and see fuel sitting in the intake (pull the throttle full open to see down to the intake) and have a strong smell of raw fuel then it's possible you have a flooded motor vs. fuel starvation. Usually indicates a sticking/misadjusted float OR trash stuck in the float.
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Old Jul 31, 2006 | 09:56 AM
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Did you say you replaced the fuel pump at the same time ? The rubber 3/8th pipe that supplies the fuel to the pump from the metal pipes on chassis above can have a tight bend in it if not routed properly. The suction from the new pump can close the bend up and stop the fuel all togther. I know as this happened to me.
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Old Jul 31, 2006 | 07:39 PM
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It seems like it's running out of fuel, because I don't get any black smoke. It's funny because when I took the top off the carb, the bowl was full. This carb was supposedly tested on an engine. I'm thinking holley now.
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Old Jul 31, 2006 | 07:51 PM
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I vote for the kink in the rubber hose at the fule pump. It took me a while to find that problem. The car would run for 15 min and then die. I would let it set for 15 min and it would start and run, finaly found the hose kinked.

Shortened the hose, put a plastic plate under the carb, put a 1/2 " riser under the carb, and it runs better that ever.
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Old Jul 31, 2006 | 11:32 PM
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Originally Posted by bondoboy
I took the top off the carb, the bowl was full. This carb was supposedly tested on an engine. I'm thinking holley now.
So....I take it you did not think much of my advice "While you were right there" to take note of the Primary jets/rods and float setting....Ect:

Well ....to each his own...
Buy a Holley.. Im sure it will run great...most likely a bit rich though....
I Hope you can get your money back on the Rochester....
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Old Aug 1, 2006 | 12:51 AM
  #12  
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Yes, I will check the metering rods before I send it back. It just doesn't seem right to have to do all of this to a carb that was supposedly tested. I'll check it out. Thanks for the advice. I was thinking holley because I installed a few of these on other engines. I put them on, did minor idle and mixture adjustments, and never had to touch them again.
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Old Aug 1, 2006 | 02:58 AM
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Originally Posted by bondoboy
It just doesn't seem right to have to do all of this to a carb that was supposedly tested.
I agree
Thats why its best to find a local rebuilder who knows what he's doing
Then you get to keep your car stock and use the stock air cleaner where in some cases using the stock air cleaner with a Holley isnt an option

Dont get me wrong..theres nothing wrong with a Holley
I just happen to prefer stock when possible
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Old Aug 1, 2006 | 11:52 PM
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The guy I work with said the carb gasket may be the problem. If the carb guy used a different throttle body, it may need the other type gasket. I used the same gasket as original because they said this carb was the same as stock. I will try this other gasket when it isn't so frickin hot outside.
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Old Aug 2, 2006 | 12:16 AM
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Originally Posted by bondoboy
The guy I work with said the carb gasket may be the problem. If the carb guy used a different throttle body, it may need the other type gasket. I used the same gasket as original because they said this carb was the same as stock. I will try this other gasket when it isn't so frickin hot outside.
Are you refering to the base gasket ....where the carb meets the intake?
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