When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
HOW DO I REMOVE THE REAR SPINDLE ON A 68. I AM TRYING TO REPLACE THE EMERGENCY BRAKES.ALSO WHAT DOES THE ARM THAT THE CABLE ATTACHES TO ATTACH TO.
THE LAST OWNER DISCARDED THE REAR SHOES.
HOW DO I REMOVE THE REAR SPINDLE ON A 68. I AM TRYING TO REPLACE THE EMERGENCY BRAKES.ALSO WHAT DOES THE ARM THAT THE CABLE ATTACHES TO ATTACH TO.
THE LAST OWNER DISCARDED THE REAR SHOES.
You really should have a pusher(puller)or at least a driver that will protect t he threads on the spindle
In order to do it properly, you will need to remove the trailing arm and press the spindle out. If they've been replaced with 'slip fit' races for the bearings, you may be able to drive them out with a drift or the like, but you risk seriously damaging the spindle. I have heard of ways to replace the parking brakes without removing the spindle, but there's a lot of cussing and throwing of tools. Do a search and you'll find several threads regarding parking brakes, and R and R of the trailing arm, spindle setups.
if you are going to remove the spindle with the trailing arm on the car you will need a special tool to drive the spindle out. if you have the entire trailing arm off the car, a press and some drivers in place would definately work.
if you are going to remove the spindle with the trailing arm on the car you will need a special tool to drive the spindle out. if you have the entire trailing arm off the car, a press and some drivers in place would definately work.
If you're just going to replace the shoes you do not need to remove the spindle. If you are going to remove the spindle then you're going to have to replace the bearings and now you have to be able to correctly set them up to .001-.002 endplay or you're going to create more problems. If you're not sure about this job check my posts on it, it will walk you through the job.
If the spindle had been in there 30 years and there is rust in the area those pushed tools are not too good. I have one and never use it and I rebuild these all the time. The tool may break the caliper bracket before it pops out the spindle,everyone is different.
If you're just going to replace the shoes you do not need to remove the spindle. If you are going to remove the spindle then you're going to have to replace the bearings and now you have to be able to correctly set them up to .001-.002 endplay or you're going to create more problems. If you're not sure about this job check my posts on it, it will walk you through the job.
If the spindle had been in there 30 years and there is rust in the area those pushed tools are not too good. I have one and never use it and I rebuild these all the time. The tool may break the caliper bracket before it pops out the spindle,everyone is different.
I don't remove the spindle while the arm is on the car. I work on the arm on the bench and use a 20 ton press to pop them off. Sometimes they go easy others seem like they're welded on!
You can rebuild the rear parking brakes w/o removing the spindle.
Most difficult part is getting the forward shoe onto the retaining pin but it can be done. If you search the forum you'll see some creative posts for performing this stunt. My favorite is using string to tie the spring into submission while you fit the retaining cup onto the pin then simply cutting the string.
The arm you mention (if I understand you correctly) is at the top. It's the lever that pushes the shoes apart. It doesn't "attach" to anything. It sits between the upper shoes and the spring pressure holds the lever arm in place (you really need a diagram but the emergency brake assembly is simply a miniture version of standard drum brakes). You can remove this arm for cleaning by carefully pushing off the retaining clip that is under the pivot pin where the longer arm (the one that holds the cable ball) attaches to the push arm (the one that prys against the shoe. Once the clip is off the pin will pull out and you can clean the arm so it moves easily when the brake is applied.
I don't remove the spindle while the arm is on the car. I work on the arm on the bench and use a 20 ton press to pop them off. Sometimes they go easy others seem like they're welded on!
Nice post Gary ! I wish I could remove every one and rebuild it like that but my everyday drivers wallets couldnt take it !!! Thats alot of extra work for just a bearing problem.I have a full set of factory recommended Kent-Moore tools for this operation(30 years old) and maybe its just the quality of the tool but I have never bent or broken the caliper bracket and I've done a few(stopped counting at a 1000 setups).I used to have a supplier for a full faced tapered rotor shim but that dried up and then went to facing the spindle to rotor surface and then to replacing the spindle when I found I could buy an almost perfect spindle from International Axle Comp.for $95.(not for NCRS cars)(wheel flange max.runout .0005 and the machining center on nut end doesnt tweak when you torque it)I set up with "0" end play and end up with .002 with a short drive.Do you have an outlet for tapered shims?What was the pin Van Steel was cutting?Anyway fantastic post and its nice to see others doing it right !!!
Thanks For The Tips, I Will Read More On It To Determine If I Can Handle It Without Removing The Spindle, I Hope So.
Thanks Again.
Rich
Sorry Skipper we got off a little-If you dont have the tools to remove the bearings-yes you can do it without removing spindle.It takes some patience and this tool from Ecklers will help but it takes time getting use to using the tool also.#A2514
I Gave Up For Now , The Corvette Show Ie Next Weekend And I Want To Drive The Car There.
It Looks Like I Will Take The Trailering Arm Off And Do It That Way.
You Know There Is Always Something Else It Will Need While Iam There.