My clutch is kicking in and out on my air conditioner and is not getting real cold. What is the best way to find out if it is low on freeon? I have a set of guages, but I don't know what they should read.

Also, what happens if I put R134a freeon on top of R12 freeon?

P.S. - How do u spell freeon???

 

if you add 134 on top of 12 you will FRY the compreser and seals !!!!!!! if the cluch is kicking in and out its low on
FREON <<<<that is your spelling lesson LOL....... go to the dealer they should be able to tell you the presure settings
PS good luck finding R12 they dont make it any more....... but there is a direct replacment I think its R414 but you
will need to check that GOOD LUCK!~~

 

You have a low charge, no question. You can't add most frigerants to a system with R12 without serious problems.

Since you can't buy R12 without a license, you can either have a professional recharge it for you or convert the system to R134a. Either one will cost you at least $400-500 if done properly.

If you want the cheap route, buy an R-12 replacement like Freeze12 and hope for the best or buy an R12 recharge kit from http://www.refrigerantsales.com (You will need an EPA license which can also be "bought" online by taking a test) You might also want to check out http://www.aircondition.com for lots of good information. I think your low side should be about 35-40. But ask the experts on the aircondition BBS.


[Modified by Gerry, 2:30 PM 9/6/2001]


[Modified by Gerry, 2:31 PM 9/6/2001]

 

Kmart had a recharge kit for 49 bucks, I used it on my 84 and it worked like a champ. But, you might want to get other opinions on this. I would hate to mess up someones air.

 

If you look at the tag or info. plate on your compressor, it will probably give you your ideal pressures. If memory serves right,
about 140 on the low and 300 on the high. Better check for sure. DO NOT add r134 to your R12 system!!!
Jeff

 

Here's a stupid question--how do you know which side is the low side?

I want to add some of that sealant/seal conditioner stuff.

JB

'78SA

 

JB:

The low side is the side that's cold.

If your system isn't getting cold, then the low side is the line between the evaporator (inside the plenum) and compressor. The line from the compressor to the condenser (the little radiator in front of the radiator) is the high side. The dividing line between the high and low side is at the thermal expansion valve.

From a system standpoint:

The high side goes from the compressor to the condenser to the receiver/dryer to the expansion valve.

The low side goes from the expansion valve to the evaporator back to the compressor.

Now, having said that, that "sealant/seal conditioner stuff" doesn't work, in my experience. Once the seals go bad, they're bad. And if they're not bad, they're good. Run the system periodically to keep the seals oiled, and they'll last longer.

:cheers:

 

Ouch Parrothead, thats the test pressures. The LIMITS of the system. The low side should run below 30 but no less than 5. High side should be under 350. Do Not mix ANY refrigerant!!!!!!!

 

Not true:

Adding R-134a to R12 will not fry anything. I bet we saw at least a dozen mixed systems in A/C class this summer, and nothing was fried. I have a buddy who works on A/C systems professionally, and he sees mixed-refrigerant systems all the time (he has a "Sentinel" that tests a system and tells you what's in it). But the mix won't cool well (the two refrigerants don't mix well), and your system will be contaminated. Many shops will not work on contaminated systems because they have to have separate recycling systems for contaminated refrigerants, and have to pay extra to dispose of the stuff.

R-12 is easy to find. It's just getting expensive. Last time I bought some about 3 months ago, it was $34 per 12 oz can (compared to $6 for R-134a).

There is no EPA approved R-12 substitute. That doesn't mean there aren't compatible refrigerants for R-12 systems, just that they aren't EPA approved. And once you mix them, then refer back to my comments on contamination.

A "cheap" conversion from R-12 to R-134a costs very little. Evacuate, replace all the o-rings with the green/blue ones, replace the receiver/dryer (and the oil in it), test the vacuum, and refill with R-134a to 80 percent of R-12 capacity. If you want to do this yourself, most shops will evacuate your R-12 for free because they can sell it to another customer.