headlight switch removal
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 514
Likes: 44
From: Toronto Ont
Headlight switch removal / Switch Diagnosis Pic inlcluded
Hi guys, I need your help getting to my headlight switch.
1) I removed the five screws holding the instrument cluster (speedo and tach)
2) I tried to remove the instrument cluster but the steering colum is in the way. So I removed the lower panel under the steering column
3) I removed the two bolts on the bracket holding the steering column
The steering column will not come down something is still holding it up.
the reason I want to lower it is to be able to remove the cluster so I can get at the headlight swich.
One last question there is a wire hanging. It is a purple and pink with a conenctor on it as shown. Could this be for the headlight switch? possibly it has come loose?
1) I removed the five screws holding the instrument cluster (speedo and tach)
2) I tried to remove the instrument cluster but the steering colum is in the way. So I removed the lower panel under the steering column
3) I removed the two bolts on the bracket holding the steering column
The steering column will not come down something is still holding it up.
the reason I want to lower it is to be able to remove the cluster so I can get at the headlight swich.
One last question there is a wire hanging. It is a purple and pink with a conenctor on it as shown. Could this be for the headlight switch? possibly it has come loose?
Last edited by 79 Bullet; Aug 10, 2006 at 10:14 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 4,226
Likes: 643
From: Orange County Ca
My car is a little older than yours, but probably simular. If you have the same type, push/pull switch as the older cars, here is how it works. You may be able to service the switch without removing the lower dash pad. You may be able to reach up and disconnect the wire plug and vacume hoses if you have them. Anyway, to remove the switch, you pull the **** all the out while at the same time depressing the retaining pin on the switch. The pin is pretty small, probably about 3/16" dia. It pushes in about a 1/8". If you have a new switch, you can see where it is located on the switch. This will release the **** and shaft and they will pull out completely. Then you can unscrew the retaining bezel that secures the switch to the dash. Also, if you look at a new switch, you can see what kind of connector it has and how many wires. Older cars have more than 2 wires. Good luck
Advanced
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 96
Likes: 0
From: Independence Mo.
I replaced the headlight switch on my 79 one month ago. What I ended up doing was the same you have done plus tilting the steering wheel till it was in its lowest position. Then you will have bearly enough room to remove the instrument cluster. The plug for the light switch has more wires on it then the plug in your picture. I would look at a wiring diagram to check on those wires. Just remember that the light switch is hot. So disconnect the battery. Hope this helps. Gary B. 
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 514
Likes: 44
From: Toronto Ont
thanks for the reply on removing the switch by depressing the button, I am OK with that part, My problem is getting to the switch.
Gary B, does the wiring harness have enough length to allow you to unplug the back of the cluster or do you have to remove the center gauge cluster as well?
BTW I tried with the tilt all the way down and it looked like a no go, I didn't want to force it.
Has anybody else done it this way or should I pursue the with lowering the steering column?
Gary B, does the wiring harness have enough length to allow you to unplug the back of the cluster or do you have to remove the center gauge cluster as well?
BTW I tried with the tilt all the way down and it looked like a no go, I didn't want to force it.
Has anybody else done it this way or should I pursue the with lowering the steering column?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 2,143
Likes: 195
From: Englewood FL
When you remove the two bolts on either side of the steering column
it should lower itself about an inch. If it is not moving down at all try
gently pushing it down. I would put some blue painters masking tape
on the top of the column that the instrument cluster will slide against
when you remove it. This will keep from scratching the paint on the
top of the column.
If you have cruise control, I would remove the speedometer cable at
the cruise control servo. This makes it easier to slide out the
instrument cluster. Once the cluster moves a few inches, reach behind
it to disconnect the wire harness and the speedometer cable.
it should lower itself about an inch. If it is not moving down at all try
gently pushing it down. I would put some blue painters masking tape
on the top of the column that the instrument cluster will slide against
when you remove it. This will keep from scratching the paint on the
top of the column.
If you have cruise control, I would remove the speedometer cable at
the cruise control servo. This makes it easier to slide out the
instrument cluster. Once the cluster moves a few inches, reach behind
it to disconnect the wire harness and the speedometer cable.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 514
Likes: 44
From: Toronto Ont
I don't have cruise control so that makes it a little easier, but it will not come down at all, something is still holding it in place. On the top of the steering column there looks to be a plastic "ear" possibly from some harness that looks like it plugs into the steering column but I am not sure what it does I tried pushing it up back through the slot that it occupies but again I didn't want to force things, you can see this in the photo above. This part of the car is a "virgin" and has never been touched. So things are where they are supposed to be ie. nothing is loose.
any ideas as to what that loose wire is from?
any ideas as to what that loose wire is from?
Last edited by 79 Bullet; Aug 8, 2006 at 11:59 PM.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 514
Likes: 44
From: Toronto Ont
Thanks for you reply Gary, I did a search and read your post last month on you experience. Besides the two bolts that hold up the column did you have to remoive any on the firewall to have it drop down, because after I removed the 2 bolts on mine the column does not drop at all?
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Corvettes Ever Sold on Bring A Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Things Every Corvette Owner Needs (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
8 Most "Only Corvette Owners Understand" Quirks and Problems
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Reasons the C6 Z06 is Still A Performance Benchmark After 20 Years
Joe Kucinski
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Advanced
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 96
Likes: 0
From: Independence Mo.
The only bolts that I removed were the two under the column. If you have access to a factory service manual try and looking there, but I am sure I did not take any thing loose from the firewall. You may have to wedge something between the mounting ears and the dash to get the extra room. But I am sure all I did was remove the bottom cover, remove the two bolts, lowered the steering wheel with the tilt lever, and wiggled the cluster out. Gary B.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 514
Likes: 44
From: Toronto Ont
Gary thanks once again for your input, I have read posts that say when you remove the 2 bolts it drops an inch. I'll tell you mine will drop 1/16" at best and I am afraid if I force it something might break.
Unforunately I don't have access to a service manual. This forum usually prooves to be way better with noligble people that have had expereince. And with the Serch feature I hardly ever have to post because it's been asked before.
Unforunately I don't have access to a service manual. This forum usually prooves to be way better with noligble people that have had expereince. And with the Serch feature I hardly ever have to post because it's been asked before.
Last edited by 79 Bullet; Aug 9, 2006 at 01:11 AM.
Pro
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 505
Likes: 8
From: Houston Tx.
Even though you removed the two bolts holding the column under the dash, there are two bolts through the firewall holding the column and the tail end of the shaft into the rag joint at the gear box. If there is some slop in the column bearings, the column will move down about an inch, maybe two. But if it is tight, it won't move much. You may have to take the bolts out of the firewall to give you enough room. My hands are too big to reach up under the dash to remove the headlight switch and with old, stiff wiring harnesses, removing the plug from the switch is next to impossible. Even if you get it off, getting it back on is even tougher. Your better off going the long route and removing it from the top side.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 514
Likes: 44
From: Toronto Ont
Thanks for your response,
three questions
1) Do I have to remove the bolts from the firewall or just loosen them?
If i remove them is there anything else on the other side of the firewall I have to be concerned with?
2) When you say the top side I guess you meen removing the top dash?
three questions
1) Do I have to remove the bolts from the firewall or just loosen them?
If i remove them is there anything else on the other side of the firewall I have to be concerned with?
2) When you say the top side I guess you meen removing the top dash?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,740
Likes: 3
From: Aurora Ontario
Your 79 is similar to my 82. You don't need to remove the cluster or drop the steering wheel. Loosen off the cluster. I assume you have removed the trim ring on the outside of the switch. I assume you have pushed in the pin to release the ****. The switch should be free to come out.There isn't enough wire to drop the switch down too far. I loosened the one or two screws that hold the dash to the door jam. I was able to pry the pad back enough so I could see the switch.
As for your purple and pink wire. I see nothing in the diagram. Except for optional fog lights on the prurple. Yello comes out of the main switch a goes to a fog light switch then a purple comes out of the fog light swtch. I don't thing the 79 came with fog lights.
I also see a pink and purple that goes to the wiper switch.
Jim
As for your purple and pink wire. I see nothing in the diagram. Except for optional fog lights on the prurple. Yello comes out of the main switch a goes to a fog light switch then a purple comes out of the fog light swtch. I don't thing the 79 came with fog lights.
I also see a pink and purple that goes to the wiper switch.
Jim
Last edited by jdp6000; Aug 9, 2006 at 10:35 AM.
Advanced
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
From: North Andover MA
Another trick for dash
I did this a few weeks ago and I found the easiest way to get the dash out was to take out the bolts that go through the firewall AND the disconnect the steering column from the rag mount in the engine compartment. Then pull steering wheel forward to totally disconnect from lower part of steering column (below rag joint). This will drop the steering column into the driver's seat and you can remove everything. Don't forget the disconnect the speedo cable (press tab and pull cable). It's easier with two people to get the steering column back lined up with everything but that's when you are ready to re-assemble it all. Took a little longer, but I couldn't get the dash out without damaging it if I didn't take apart the steering column.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 514
Likes: 44
From: Toronto Ont
JDP thanks for the info on the wiper switch wires, Last I checked my wiper was working well, I will re-check tomorrow if rain holds off.
greenice it looks like this is not going to be as straight forward as I thought so my weekend just got booked, thanks for your input.
greenice it looks like this is not going to be as straight forward as I thought so my weekend just got booked, thanks for your input.
Pro
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 505
Likes: 8
From: Houston Tx.
Originally Posted by 79 Bullet
Thanks for your response,
three questions
1) Do I have to remove the bolts from the firewall or just loosen them?
If i remove them is there anything else on the other side of the firewall I have to be concerned with?
2) When you say the top side I guess you meen removing the top dash?
three questions
1) Do I have to remove the bolts from the firewall or just loosen them?
If i remove them is there anything else on the other side of the firewall I have to be concerned with?
2) When you say the top side I guess you meen removing the top dash?
2) There may be a plate with the column lock-out cable attached. Before you can move the column, as greenice suggested, you will need to disconnect the cable.
3) With the column out of the way, pull the speedo/tach/dash assembly out and remove the switch from above, rather than from under the dash.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 514
Likes: 44
From: Toronto Ont
Headlight switch removal / Switch Diagnosis Pic inlcluded
Thanks to all for your help. I got the cluster out by disconnecting the speedometer and dash hareness while still in place.
Here are some photos that might help the next guy,
Here are some photos that might help the next guy,
Last edited by 79 Bullet; Aug 10, 2006 at 10:17 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,740
Likes: 3
From: Aurora Ontario
Originally Posted by Thinpockets
I'd like to know what is accessible if you remove the top dash pad. Would you then have access to the headlight switch and speedometer or is something else in the way?
I don't think you can get at it this way. there is a steel plate under the dash pad.
Easiest way is to go from below. Or as 79 Bullet did.
Jim
