GM Crate motor opinions wanted
08-14-2006, 06:56 AM
#41
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Originally Posted by Sarge81
I agree the numbers do seem low. I'm running a Sean Murphy prepped Stage 2 750 CFM Rochester Q-jet. #74 jet/#42K rod/ AU Secondary rods. The A/F seems a little lean according to the "sniffer." It shows a 15:1 A/F mix.
Do you think if I "fatten up" the A/F the #'s will greatly improve?
Sorry "cherrybombc3" I don't mean to hijack your thread.
Darryl
Do you think if I "fatten up" the A/F the #'s will greatly improve?
Sorry "cherrybombc3" I don't mean to hijack your thread.
Darryl
08-14-2006, 07:08 AM
#42
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Give me a call
Originally Posted by cherrybomb78
Hey, FL RIDER
Being right in town with you, I'd like the chance to see how the 290 performs? Let me know, I see you around all the time.
Being right in town with you, I'd like the chance to see how the 290 performs? Let me know, I see you around all the time.
08-14-2006, 01:35 PM
#44
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Originally Posted by miechesa
Build your own or have a reliable shop do it.Crate Motor Comparison
Average 355HP ZZ-4 base price from Chevy dealer- $3,695. Add the "Fast Burn Heads" option for $425.00 and the "Hot Cam" kit for $679.00 and you get 385HP for a total of $4,799
Comparing a crate motor to one of our engines is like comparing apples to oranges. Crate motors do have their place, and are fine for "basic" performance use, but you can't expect one of those to hold-up under severe conditions like ours will or make the kind of raw power our engines will make. Here's the simple facts, Engine blocks: We use high quality, "seasoned", American made engine blocks. They use lighter, weaker, "Hecho en Mexico" blocks. Pistons: We use high quality American made hypereutectic or forged pistons. They use Brazilian made cast pistons. Rings: We use high quality, durable moly or iron ductile / plasma moly rings. Who knows what they use. Rods: We use re-sized HD Z/28 rods fitted with super strong ARP bolts OR super light and strong 5140 forged steel rods with ARP "Wave Lock" bolts. They use factory rods WITHOUT ARP bolts. Bolts: The ONLY thing holding your engine together! We use super strong ARP main bolts and ARP or Pioneer HD head bolts. They use plain old stock bolts. Timing assembly: We use super strong, American made double row timing gear sets. They use single gear sets. Push Rods: We use American made, heavy duty steel or bullet proof chrome moly push rods. They use plain old stock push rods. Heads: We use high quality, American made CNC profiled and port matched aluminum heads. They use plain old factory aluminum heads, the same heads that come on trucks. Rocker Arms: We use heavy duty, American made aluminum roller rockers. They use stamped steel non-roller rockers. Bolts: We use nice, new, plated or high quality stainless steel bolts. They use plain old black oxide bolts that rust. Harmonic balancer: We use heavy duty "nodular iron" harmonic balancers. They use plain old stock balancers. Timing cover: We use chrome plated steel timing covers. They use a plastic one that you can only use once. Balancing: On our balanced engines, they are within 1/4 gram. Theirs don't come balanced. Machining and Assembly: Ours is built one at a time by a true professional who cares about his customer's and his "Bad-***" reputation. Theirs are built in Mexico. Ours are built for your specific needs.
Average 355HP ZZ-4 base price from Chevy dealer- $3,695. Add the "Fast Burn Heads" option for $425.00 and the "Hot Cam" kit for $679.00 and you get 385HP for a total of $4,799
Comparing a crate motor to one of our engines is like comparing apples to oranges. Crate motors do have their place, and are fine for "basic" performance use, but you can't expect one of those to hold-up under severe conditions like ours will or make the kind of raw power our engines will make. Here's the simple facts, Engine blocks: We use high quality, "seasoned", American made engine blocks. They use lighter, weaker, "Hecho en Mexico" blocks. Pistons: We use high quality American made hypereutectic or forged pistons. They use Brazilian made cast pistons. Rings: We use high quality, durable moly or iron ductile / plasma moly rings. Who knows what they use. Rods: We use re-sized HD Z/28 rods fitted with super strong ARP bolts OR super light and strong 5140 forged steel rods with ARP "Wave Lock" bolts. They use factory rods WITHOUT ARP bolts. Bolts: The ONLY thing holding your engine together! We use super strong ARP main bolts and ARP or Pioneer HD head bolts. They use plain old stock bolts. Timing assembly: We use super strong, American made double row timing gear sets. They use single gear sets. Push Rods: We use American made, heavy duty steel or bullet proof chrome moly push rods. They use plain old stock push rods. Heads: We use high quality, American made CNC profiled and port matched aluminum heads. They use plain old factory aluminum heads, the same heads that come on trucks. Rocker Arms: We use heavy duty, American made aluminum roller rockers. They use stamped steel non-roller rockers. Bolts: We use nice, new, plated or high quality stainless steel bolts. They use plain old black oxide bolts that rust. Harmonic balancer: We use heavy duty "nodular iron" harmonic balancers. They use plain old stock balancers. Timing cover: We use chrome plated steel timing covers. They use a plastic one that you can only use once. Balancing: On our balanced engines, they are within 1/4 gram. Theirs don't come balanced. Machining and Assembly: Ours is built one at a time by a true professional who cares about his customer's and his "Bad-***" reputation. Theirs are built in Mexico. Ours are built for your specific needs.
wow...you sure do hate mexico, eh? and as for the content of your post, i sure do wonder why GM stands behind these HORRIBLY INFERIOR mexican crate motors with better warranties than nearly any crate builder.
08-14-2006, 11:12 PM
#46
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Now, now, boys, I didnt mean to start anything here, I just wanted to get some opinions on the 350/330 for a C3. Now everyone is fighting...can't we just all get along, hahahahaha. I'm gunna get the 350/330/headers & duals, along with the right torque conveter & 3:55 gears, I'm sure it will haul just fine. Besides This way I'll still have money for nachos.
08-15-2006, 06:18 AM
#48
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Originally Posted by cherrybombc3
Now, now, boys, I didnt mean to start anything here, I just wanted to get some opinions on the 350/330 for a C3. Now everyone is fighting...can't we just all get along, hahahahaha. I'm gunna get the 350/330/headers & duals, along with the right torque conveter & 3:55 gears, I'm sure it will haul just fine. Besides This way I'll still have money for nachos.
Its a good solid engine and you will get a lot of miles out of it.
The extra 40 hp over the 350/290 "will" be an added plus.
Chris B
PS: Give me a call if you need a hand.
08-26-2006, 02:21 PM
#49
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Originally Posted by cherrybombc3
Im looking for opinions on GM crate motors before I purchase one. Has anyone had any problems? I'm looking at the 350 HO. Also how does the HO power a C3?
If you have the cash, you should def get the 572
, and put on an injection, one from proflo is ok.DoC
08-26-2006, 03:25 PM
#50
Originally Posted by ESU
Same motor, edelbrock performer manifold, 2 1/2 inch duals, no cats, rebuilt q-jet, MSD, great price, helluva lot better than stock, ESU
On the otherhand..this one in the 69 has been FUN...
21,000 miles and no issues...just runs and runs and runs...draining gasoline supplies,though...
Rich
08-26-2006, 10:01 PM
#52
Originally Posted by ajrothm
Rich, was your car a BB car originally? Is that BB fan and shroud or SB? I still have the hots for a BB.
What I like in particular after the engine is the M22 Rockcrusher..very strong...
Not sure about the fan..aftermarket I think...clutch fan set up..think the clutch is Delco...Rich
Last edited by rihwoods; 08-26-2006 at 10:03 PM.
08-26-2006, 10:19 PM
#53
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Originally Posted by sperkins
Man you've opened up a big can of worms.
How about this one from Year One for $2990?
Engine Specifications:
·Horsepower- 400+
·Torque- 440+ ft/lbs
·Compression ratio- 9.5:1
·Dyno-tested: Yes, includes harmonic balancer and flexplate
·Dyno sheet: Included with engine’s output
·Vacuum produced: 12hg @ 800RPM
·Recommended fuel- 92 octane
·Max recommended RPM- 6000
·Block- Seasoned 4-bolt iron
·Crankshaft- Nodular iron
·Pistons- Hypereutectic
·Connecting rods- Powdered metal
·Camshaft- Hydraulic roller
·Valve lift:.520"
·Duration @ .050" (int/exh): 218deg/228deg
·Rocker arms- 1.6:1 ratio
·Cylinder heads- Ported Vortec
·Valves- Stainless steel 2.02 int/1.60 exh
·Valve springs: Heavy duty
·Bore x Stroke- 4.030" x 3.48"
·Intake manifold- Dual-plane aluminum
·Oil pan, timing cover, valve covers included
·Engine fasteners: High tensile strength
·Warranty- 12 month/12,000 mi
How about this one from Year One for $2990?
Engine Specifications:
·Horsepower- 400+
·Torque- 440+ ft/lbs
·Compression ratio- 9.5:1
·Dyno-tested: Yes, includes harmonic balancer and flexplate
·Dyno sheet: Included with engine’s output
·Vacuum produced: 12hg @ 800RPM
·Recommended fuel- 92 octane
·Max recommended RPM- 6000
·Block- Seasoned 4-bolt iron
·Crankshaft- Nodular iron
·Pistons- Hypereutectic
·Connecting rods- Powdered metal
·Camshaft- Hydraulic roller
·Valve lift:.520"
·Duration @ .050" (int/exh): 218deg/228deg
·Rocker arms- 1.6:1 ratio
·Cylinder heads- Ported Vortec
·Valves- Stainless steel 2.02 int/1.60 exh
·Valve springs: Heavy duty
·Bore x Stroke- 4.030" x 3.48"
·Intake manifold- Dual-plane aluminum
·Oil pan, timing cover, valve covers included
·Engine fasteners: High tensile strength
·Warranty- 12 month/12,000 mi
I just installed the engine above and got 430 HP and 430 lbs of tq for $2990....Can one person show us a better deal???
08-27-2006, 08:47 AM
#55
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Originally Posted by straub18045
76 sting i was considering that engine from year one. do you have it runnin yet? does that manifold fit under a stock hood?
Started up first time and it fits with a drop down base and 2.5 filter. Still trying to get the Holley DP working as I have a bad flat spot off idle.
Sorry I forgot to mention a pretty important piece if anyone is thinking about this engine. You will likely want/need a higher stall converter as this is a mid to high rpm engine. Tq is righ off the line but the HP does not start really kicking in till 2200 rpm's. I am not too sure about the ZZ's at that low of an RMPas they may make more HP off the line, but not even close to the Tq, which is what you want. Also, this engine loves a high rev. After installign it for 1 month now I still can't bring her to 6000 RPM as I am too scarred..seriously (God I sound like a girl :o ). It is soo loud that I am affraid, so I have not pushed it over 5500.
With a small Nitrous setup you too can be over 500 HP and 500 Tq for less than $3800.
I know that last statement might get a few folks going and that was not the goal, but a little Nitrous won't hut anyone..........as long as it is done correctly.
