You may have seen the other post on spec's? I just had the 75 aligned. It was pulling to the right after we installed the new box and control valve last year, but the steering/suspension wasn't really changed then. I did balance the valve after I rebuilt it and the PS seems to be working fine.

The shop found the rear toe off to the left on both sides but otherwise the car was still in good shape. The Front was pretty close to dialed in from what I was told when they first checked it. I haven't seen the spec's yet to know just what it was set to, but was told the car still pulls to the right. Tires were rotated and I'm guessing the psi was checked too?Alignment guy says all is good and doesn't know why it's pulling to the right. Anyone have any valve balancing issues related to this?

Thanks,
I'll post what ever I find when I can get to it.
Gary

 

If your control valve balance was off,you would blow a pressure hose eventually...Does it pull when braking or just wander to the right ?

Quick check...
On the control valve,get vette front wheels in air...center steering wheel and start engine in neutral (rear wheels blocked) If steering wheel moves left or right,then control valve balance is off...but don't think this is your issue...

Rich

 

What you can do is find a stretch of road that is low traffic, and when you feel the car pulling to the right, momentarily kill the engine (don't lock the column!). If the pull is still there with the engine off, it's not the control valve. My alignment shop plays with the caster to compensate for pull to the right due to "road crown".

 

Do NOT forget or ignore tires when troubleshooting a directional pull. Swap the front tires and see if it pulls the OTHER direction. If so then it's a rubber issue.

If so then you could put the offending tire in back to correct the problem. Also, air pressure. It is the first step of an alignment (to check that air pressure is even) but it's easy to forget if you're a novice mechanic or a not-too-thorough one.

The power steering control valve however, is a common issue with the C3 design and of course is worthy of investigation.

Disconnect the rod from the frame and start the car. If the rod moves in or out, then it needs to be adjusted by turning the locknut that's covered with a plastic cap. Adjusting the control valve just takes a few minutes.

Last on the list for now, is ride height. Also should have been verified by the alignement tech but since we don't know that person's qualifications and you still have an issue, it needs to be addressed.

Do NOT measure ride height by the body ... instead use a flex tape measure and check it by laying down under the car on a level surface and measuring up from the floor to the frame rails. Use the body mounts for reference points if you want, and measure left & right sides at the same area of the frame.

Good luck and let us know the results. I come from a background of brakes, heavy line repairs and front end work so I would be glad to answer any questions that may come up once these things are investigated.

All the things on the list need to be checked though if you REALLY are determined to eliminate the problem. Don't forget your rubber!

 

Probably a long shot but if it is only a slight wander to the right you could be lightly dragging a brake.

 

I had and 82 that pulled under hard acceleration and braking. Turned out the welds on the front cross member and around the coil spring buckets were broken.

 

Ok to follow up on this from the other post.
I have not driven the car and probably won't since it has racing seats and requires gymnastic abilities to get in and out!!! Ah, to be 21 again!LOL

I spoke with the shop owner and I know he worked on the car because my son was right there with him and has that nice 3d Hunter machine.

Here are the alignment spec's I was given for comparision.


Front

.09 camber
2.5 L 2.6 R caster
1/16 toe

Rear
0 camber and 1/8 toe. He said the right was dead on but he didn't have the SS shims so the Left was off very slightly a tenth of a degree.

The tires were rotated with no affect. The tires were just replaced and this happened with the old tires as well. The only thing I can think of that has been changed since this started was the control valve. It is the original I went through and did balance to the point where the rod did not move. The alignment swears the car is aligned to spec. I did give him the VB&P spec sheet prior to start.

Another thought on the valve too is I think I was told it felt like it turns much easier to the right then left also.

I think that for no other reason then my own thinking I'll go back to the valve again.

Of course I'm still open to any thoughts.

Thanks guys,
Gary

 

OK, I also have the slight pull to the right...no alignment yet, on the list, but I'd like to address tire pressure....the owner's manual says (if I remember) 20 front, 26 rear....I've always thought that all 4 radials should be 32 psi....which would be correct??

 

question, were the tires rotated front to back or left to right?

ask when there alighnment machine was last calibrated, hunter services ours once a year by request

 

Don't ignore the tires or the brakes. A dragging caliper can cause an annoying pull. The wheel bearings should also be checked - if one is too tight it might cause something like that.

 

To follow up, I just had a chance last night to look at this problem. I was pretty confident the brakes,suspension,and steering were not a problem because we just rebuilt this car 5k miles ago. I jacked up the front end and centered the wheels. I started the car and there was a slight pull to the right. I rebalanced the control valve and it now drives like an arrow. The alignment guy did a good job too. Now I have to get the next vette into the alignment shop after Carlilse.

 

 

Paul,

Just read this post from you..... Just did new suspension front and back on my '74. (All new bushes etc). Spent a day or two ensuring it was all lined up properly.

Still pulls a little to the right although nothing like as bad as it used to

Could you expand on your process for the control valve (I've never done this). Presumably turning one way pushes rod out and turning other pulls it in - so there must be a neutral point - Is that how it works ???

Also where is this adjustment (I guess it's on the RAM ??)

Thanks,

Jeremy. (UK)

 

The adjustment is in the control valve-its a 7/16 nut under the little metal cap on the end of valve

 

QUOTE=dwncchs]The adjustment is in the control valve-its a 7/16 nut under the little metal cap on the end of valve[/QUOTE]
It will pop off with a screwdriver and sometimes a little tap... similar to front wheel bearing caps...
Also make slow adjustments, and after it is centered it should be eay to push the rod in and out by hand...

On the right side of this picture on the end

http://www.gulfcoastcorvette.com/001.jpg[

 

Make slow adjustments until it is centered and then it should be easy to push the rod in and out by hand when the engine is running..

 

Batman,
Do you have an easy way to determine if a caliper is dragging?

 

Jackup the car and spin the wheel by hand,apply the brakes release ,and spin agian ,if its dragging you should feel it after applying the brakes.

 

 

To those that replied about the steering adjustment:

Thanks. Worked a Treat!! (Yes it was out).

J.