I just finished installing a mono spring, lower control arms, shocks, tie rods and tie rod ends. I had previously installed a rear mono spring (center mount) and rear shocks. That’s what started all this. I was so impressed with the ride from the rear spring that I decided that I would replace the newly rebuilt front suspension with another rebuild, but this time using a mono spring. I bought the kit from VB&P that included lower control arms because I just liked the look of it better. I had a problem getting one of the lower ball joints to release but other than that it was pretty easy. I took about 8 hours but I didn’t really work that hard or fast at it. I think someone with a little help could do it in 3-4 hours. I’m not really much of a mechanic but I have pretty good tools including air tools (they really help). I think an average person with a little courage to start a project like this wouldn’t have a problem doing it if he has good tools, jack stands and a floor jack.

The car (72 Coupe) rode like an average C3, which is like any 50’s or 60’s Chevy (remember it’s roots) – somewhat harsh, yet too squishy and kind of rattley, even when all the components are new.

My new C3 (same car) rides tighter, quieter, firmer, more responsive and LOWER - now 26.25” from 27.75” with 225x70-15 tires. Whether or not I keep it that low remains to be seen but I like the look.

I plan to use my Vette as a real every day driver so a smooth, comfortable ride is everything to me.

The transformation is incredible!

 

The transformation is incredible![/QUOTE]

 

Thin Pockets,
Check the clearance between the rubber bumper on the lower control arm and the frame. You will probably need to trim it down considerably to have enough range of motion to take full advantage of the monospring. With insufficient clearance, your control arms will be frequently bouncing on the frame. This is not comfortable!

 

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awesome, just love the ride!

 

Irv, Thanks for the report. This is great info to see. I installed a rear mono-spring on my '72 last year and have loved it. This is inspiring me to tackle the front. By the way, which kit did you use?

 

http://www.vbandp.com/detail.aspx?ID=514

 

That is the one.
I also changed to KYB GR-2 shocks from VB&P reason being that they sell a specially valved rear shock for their mono spring.
They seem well suited for my kind of street driving. I'm an aggressive driver but have not yet gone wild.


Also - flynhi - I will probably end up raising it up until the day comes when my pockets are a little fatter and can buy some lower profile tires and rims.
As far as the rubber bumper goes it is close. Another thing is the splash shield above the upper control arm is real close to the a/c pulley and belt. I opened the hood after a short drive and smelled rubber burning. It'll come together in a couple of days - but the ride is still good.

You guys who have done this know what I mean when I talk up the ride. It's great!

 

Suggest you trim rubber bumper to allow about 7/8" clearance to the frame.
You will need to maintain a wheel/tire diameter of near 27" so that your speedo will read properly. I'm running 17" wheels with Bridgestone 255/50/17s.

 

I have now raised the front to 26.75". The tops of the tires are now even with the fender opening. I also cut the control arm bumpers by .5" so that I have about 1" clearance.

I do have one problem I can't figure out. Taking a tight right turn like into my driveway - no gutter bump - it makes a popping sound. Just one pop and it's not a tire catching the fender. I've turned the wheels all the way to either side and it's not close even with the spring compressed.

Also Turning radius seems larger than before.

 

Suggest you put the Vette on a lift and turn it lock to lock to see where the stops are. The VB monospring should not affect turning radius. It's possible that you have misinstalled something and this is causing the increased turning radius.

Years ago, I experienced the popping sound you describe. It was due to a tear in the steel front crossmember.
these cars are now 30+ yers old and were built at a time when most cars were only on the road for 4 to 5 years. So factory welding was not great. I suggest that you thoroughly inspect all welds on the front end for integrity. Norval has posted pics on how to increase strength in these areas. Do a search on frame welding or similar to find the pics.

 

Flynhi, You and I had some good discussions on this subject last winter when I installed my system. I went through a pretty thorough evaluation of the travel (without the springs attached) and steering limits. I went through a couple sets of rubber bumpers, cutting them, shimming them and I ended up using the stock bumpers. I know you have had problems with yours bottoming, but I have not. I have my setting at the second softest, and the ride is fantastic. I didn't adjust the steering stops and the turning radious is much larger then before, a real pain. But I will wait untill I put new wheels and tires on before I adjust the stops. By the way, I also had a tair in my front cross member.

 

How much clearance between the bumper and the frame did you end up with?

I have my Vette in the alignment shop today and I hope they find something regarding the popping sound.

It has some serious oversteer and I hope that it is better after and alignment. I have a 1-1/8" bar in front and 5/8" in back. I'm not sure I need the rear bar. Its a stock SB and not raced at all.

The ride is still good.

 

Has anybody tried the conversion kit without the lower control arms? Installation and price a little less. I'm wondering if ride and adjustment would be equal? Thanks in advance.

 

I also drilled a large hole thru the hard rubber bumber to reduce its spring rate when it first makes contact.

 

How much clearance between the bumper and the frame did you end up with?

About 1 1/4" = to the amount of shaft showing on my shock absorber.

Jason has a good idea.

 

The alignment shop said they saw no problems with the crossmember and everything is tight and appears right and no problems with erratic numbers while doing the alignment. It was raining when I picked it up but no noise on the way home. He did say it was way off on all front numbers. I'll drive it tomorrow when it's dry and see if the noise is gone.

About the turning radius - I'm still looking into that but I did find other posts that complain about losing tight turn ability.