some carb help please
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
Likes: 53
From: Dayton, Ohio
Originally Posted by TheMongoose
yes, i can get more by hand. it goes full open.
Last edited by ...Roger...; Aug 17, 2006 at 07:06 AM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,342
Likes: 7
From: Connecticut
Originally Posted by dwncchs
Your throttle cable needs to be replaced or "shortened" ---dont screw with bending your carb linkage at this point you already said you can get wide open by hand.
I cant see much from the pic but I believe Mongoose will be turning a few more RPM soon
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 704
Likes: 2
From: Cincinnati OH
Originally Posted by Bob Onit
No adjustment on that setup dwncchs?
I cant see much from the pic but I believe Mongoose will be turning a few more RPM soon
I cant see much from the pic but I believe Mongoose will be turning a few more RPM soon
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
Likes: 53
From: Dayton, Ohio
Originally Posted by Bob Onit
No adjustment on that setup dwncchs?
I cant see much from the pic but I believe Mongoose will be turning a few more RPM soon
I cant see much from the pic but I believe Mongoose will be turning a few more RPM soon
Last edited by ...Roger...; Aug 17, 2006 at 06:34 PM.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 704
Likes: 2
From: Cincinnati OH
ok, I believe I understand how this works so far. What I can't figure out is how to make the arm in red closer to the arm in blue? If I shorten the throttle cable any more the idle on the car goes up. The two arms do contact each other with the gas pedal to the floor but they only travel together for maybe 1/8" before WOT. The other set of directions that indicated adjusting the screw for the air blades on the PS of the car does not appear to be my problem (at the moment). There is plenty of travel there for the blades to go open if there is sufficient vacuum. Right now my problem seems ot be mechanical in nature. the 2 arms need to contac tsooner. I would rather not bend the arm. Do you know how to adjust it?
Racer
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 477
Likes: 43
From: Millbrae California
just a note, you have the stud/pin the throttle cable attached to in the outer holeof the throttle arm. if you move the stud/pin to the hole more towards the center of the arm/throttle shaft center line it will take less throttle pedal movement to actuate the throttle. (the shorter throw may solve your problem if i understand the problem correctly).
henry @ oles carb
henry @ oles carb
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,342
Likes: 7
From: Connecticut
Well....... If it were me and a new cable was needed I would "Bubba" the current throttle cable while waiting for the new one
I would release the cable from the mount (Looks like the square 4 prong plastic type)
Then I would pull the cable towards the firewall and use a small hose clamp to lock it against the bracket to where there is just the slightest bit of slack in the cable which should give you WOT .........
It wont hurt anything and it's totally reversable.
I would release the cable from the mount (Looks like the square 4 prong plastic type)
Then I would pull the cable towards the firewall and use a small hose clamp to lock it against the bracket to where there is just the slightest bit of slack in the cable which should give you WOT .........
It wont hurt anything and it's totally reversable.
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
Likes: 53
From: Dayton, Ohio
Mongoose-is the trans downshift cable restricting the travel?Olescarb mentioned moving the pin closer to throttle shaft-not sure if it is movable-but you can measure it.I went out and measured one I have here.The pin is 1@1/2 inch from center of throttle shaft and the pin would have to be pulled back by cable 2 inches for full throttle.I would suggest removing throttle cable and operating by hand to see if you get full throttle-if not remove trans downshift and try again.
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Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 704
Likes: 2
From: Cincinnati OH
Originally Posted by olescarb
just a note, you have the stud/pin the throttle cable attached to in the outer holeof the throttle arm. if you move the stud/pin to the hole more towards the center of the arm/throttle shaft center line it will take less throttle pedal movement to actuate the throttle. (the shorter throw may solve your problem if i understand the problem correctly).
henry @ oles carb
henry @ oles carb
I now have a Quadrajet! I moved the pin to the outer hole and that has it working again. It needs tuned for sure. Now I have the quadrajet bog as the secondaries go open. Not too bad but noticeable. I'll get a jet and rod kit and go through the instructions. Damn you should have seen all the brown smoke come out when I hit WOT the 1st time! What a cloud I left behind. By the time I got back home it was clean again so I figure it was just junk laying in there, etc.
While I was there I took a chance and put the tranny kick down pin in the outer hole also because it wouldn't hold past 3000 rpm at WOT before. Now it pulls all the way to redline before shifting.
There goes my gas mileage...not that 12mpg was good anyway
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,342
Likes: 7
From: Connecticut
Originally Posted by TheMongoose
EUREKA!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I now have a Quadrajet! I moved the pin to the outer hole and that has it working again. It needs tuned for sure. Now I have the quadrajet bog as the secondaries go open. Not too bad but noticeable. I'll get a jet and rod kit and go through the instructions. Damn you should have seen all the brown smoke come out when I hit WOT the 1st time! What a cloud I left behind. By the time I got back home it was clean again so I figure it was just junk laying in there, etc.
While I was there I took a chance and put the tranny kick down pin in the outer hole also because it wouldn't hold past 3000 rpm at WOT before. Now it pulls all the way to redline before shifting.
There goes my gas mileage...not that 12mpg was good anyway
I now have a Quadrajet! I moved the pin to the outer hole and that has it working again. It needs tuned for sure. Now I have the quadrajet bog as the secondaries go open. Not too bad but noticeable. I'll get a jet and rod kit and go through the instructions. Damn you should have seen all the brown smoke come out when I hit WOT the 1st time! What a cloud I left behind. By the time I got back home it was clean again so I figure it was just junk laying in there, etc.
While I was there I took a chance and put the tranny kick down pin in the outer hole also because it wouldn't hold past 3000 rpm at WOT before. Now it pulls all the way to redline before shifting.
There goes my gas mileage...not that 12mpg was good anyway
The rods and jets dont wear out so I am curious as to why you need a jet/rod kit?
Did you make changes to the engine? Headers, performance upgrade ect?
12 MPG is not optimum but now that the secondary circuit is working you may see a milage improvement
What are the symptoms that would lead you to believe a rebuild is in order other than the "Bog" ?
The bog can sometimes be cured with a simple adjustment of the secondary air valve.
Fill us in please
And congrats on getting your QJ working almost the way it should be.
You can always trust olsecarb, sixfooter, dwncchs, Big Blockk, Rockn-Roll and Lars (even if he was to busy to reply to your post) as these are the guys (among others) that have guided me through my quest to understand and the QJ
It really is a great Carb......
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 704
Likes: 2
From: Cincinnati OH
Originally Posted by Bob Onit
Thats good news for sure
The rods and jets dont wear out so I am curious as to why you need a jet/rod kit?
Did you make changes to the engine? Headers, performance upgrade ect?
12 MPG is not optimum but now that the secondary circuit is working you may see a milage improvement
What are the symptoms that would lead you to believe a rebuild is in order other than the "Bog" ?
The bog can sometimes be cured with a simple adjustment of the secondary air valve.
Fill us in please
And congrats on getting your QJ working almost the way it should be.
You can always trust olsecarb, sixfooter, dwncchs, Big Blockk, Rockn-Roll and Lars (even if he was to busy to reply to your post) as these are the guys (among others) that have guided me through my quest to understand and the QJ
It really is a great Carb......
The rods and jets dont wear out so I am curious as to why you need a jet/rod kit?
Did you make changes to the engine? Headers, performance upgrade ect?
12 MPG is not optimum but now that the secondary circuit is working you may see a milage improvement
What are the symptoms that would lead you to believe a rebuild is in order other than the "Bog" ?
The bog can sometimes be cured with a simple adjustment of the secondary air valve.
Fill us in please
And congrats on getting your QJ working almost the way it should be.
You can always trust olsecarb, sixfooter, dwncchs, Big Blockk, Rockn-Roll and Lars (even if he was to busy to reply to your post) as these are the guys (among others) that have guided me through my quest to understand and the QJ
It really is a great Carb......
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,342
Likes: 7
From: Connecticut
Originally Posted by TheMongoose
I have a set of long tube headers and sidepipes waiting to go on! I also have a 30yr old cat waiting to come off!!
If it ran fine at one time it will run fine again without any changes as long as no mods were made.
I would take it apart, clean it and reassemble it ... with a new kit of course