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Bolt size?

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Old Aug 16, 2006 | 02:26 PM
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Default Bolt size?

finally installed the engine and trans in the car last night...prepping to attach the headers and hook up the engine (elec, lines, etc.).

when bolting the trans to the bell housing i found that the top 2 holes accepted a 7/16 course thread bolt, but the bottom 2 holes seemed to be larger as when i went to torque them down the threads skipped. anyone know what size threaded bolt should be used? it is a 69-350 engine in my 68, with a 4spd muncie. i didn't want to just start trying diff size bolts...

thanks
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Old Aug 16, 2006 | 03:05 PM
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Should all be the same, maybe the holes are stripped
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Old Aug 16, 2006 | 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Fevre
Should all be the same, maybe the holes are stripped

If they are stripped be thankful its the bell housing
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Old Aug 16, 2006 | 03:34 PM
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Threads are in the engine and are allthe same size, the bellhousing is clarance.
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Old Aug 16, 2006 | 03:56 PM
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They should all be the same size.
If they are indeed stripped you are in the "deep doo".
You may have some good threads at the bottoms of the holes though so measure and see if you can use longer bolts. Not the best fix because you'll be living on borrowed time unless you can repair the holes. The weak connection between the lower bell housing and block will put quite the strain on the upper bolts and eventually the drive train geometry.

And there should be 6 bolts, not just 4. Two at the top, two at the bottom, and two near the alignment dowels.
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Old Aug 16, 2006 | 10:09 PM
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thanks, but i was speaking of the bell housing to the trans. the bell housing to the block is good, i just need to find the shield for the lower half. (?)

the 4 bolts for the trans to the bell housing are the issue. the upper 2 seemed to grab, but the lower 2 don't quite grab and 1 is popping off the threads when trying to tighten it down. i think the others are grabbing due to thread lock residue or dirt maybe...? should they be 1/2" bolts or what? i would think this would be a standard size. i have a tap so i could re-tap them to a larger size if necessarry to prevent having to buy a new housing...

thanks for the feedback

i did get the headers installed tonight and am prepping to start the engine for the 1st time, which a friend has said he'd help with
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Old Aug 16, 2006 | 10:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Hammerhead Fred
They should all be the same size.
If they are indeed stripped you are in the "deep doo".
You may have some good threads at the bottoms of the holes though so measure and see if you can use longer bolts. Not the best fix because you'll be living on borrowed time unless you can repair the holes. The weak connection between the lower bell housing and block will put quite the strain on the upper bolts and eventually the drive train geometry.

And there should be 6 bolts, not just 4. Two at the top, two at the bottom, and two near the alignment dowels.

TRANS BOLTS.....YOU have MORE than 4 bolts connecting your trans to your bellhousing??
...redvetracr

PS: trans to bellhousing are 1/2 coarse
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Old Aug 16, 2006 | 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by bwellisley
thanks, but i was speaking of the bell housing to the trans. the bell housing to the block is good, i just need to find the shield for the lower half. (?)

the 4 bolts for the trans to the bell housing are the issue. the upper 2 seemed to grab, but the lower 2 don't quite grab and 1 is popping off the threads when trying to tighten it down. i think the others are grabbing due to thread lock residue or dirt maybe...? should they be 1/2" bolts or what? i would think this would be a standard size. i have a tap so i could re-tap them to a larger size if necessarry to prevent having to buy a new housing...

thanks for the feedback

i did get the headers installed tonight and am prepping to start the engine for the 1st time, which a friend has said he'd help with
Bart, the trans to bellhousing bolts are 1/2-13thd. You should be able to buy the shield almost anywhere, $20. You can run your car without the shield so don't let that stop you (I would replace the trans/bell bolts first though!

You are making big progress on your car. When you get done and your just itching to work on a car, come up to Ohio
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Old Aug 16, 2006 | 11:11 PM
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Originally Posted by bwellisley
thanks, but i was speaking of the bell housing to the trans. the bell housing to the block is good, i just need to find the shield for the lower half. (?)

the 4 bolts for the trans to the bell housing are the issue. the upper 2 seemed to grab, but the lower 2 don't quite grab and 1 is popping off the threads when trying to tighten it down. i think the others are grabbing due to thread lock residue or dirt maybe...? should they be 1/2" bolts or what? i would think this would be a standard size. i have a tap so i could re-tap them to a larger size if necessarry to prevent having to buy a new housing...

thanks for the feedback

i did get the headers installed tonight and am prepping to start the engine for the 1st time, which a friend has said he'd help with

Sorry, misread your post.
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Old Aug 17, 2006 | 04:18 AM
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Originally Posted by bwellisley
i have a tap so i could re-tap them to a larger size if necessarry to prevent having to buy a new housing...
I would NOT recommend tapping the bell housing to a larger size as this would require enlarging the holes on the Muncie as well
Muncies are notorious for the ears cracking/breaking off under normal conditions let alone making them weaker by enlarging the holes
I dont think you will find anybody that will disagree with this.
Bell housings are plentiful and inexpensive.

Also... find a shroud before you install the starter because the shroud gets installed before the starter.... I wouldnt think you would want to tangle with installing the starter twice especially if your running headers.
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Old Aug 17, 2006 | 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Bob Onit

Also... find a shroud before you install the starter because the shroud gets installed before the starter.... I wouldnt think you would want to tangle with installing the starter twice especially if your running headers.
I notched my sheild so I an install it with the starter in, bought the sheild after install and did not want to pull the starter.
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Old Aug 17, 2006 | 08:47 AM
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Thanks, all!!

I'll get some 1/2" bolts to put in. If they do not feel as though it is right I will replace the bh. I will install the shield first. Thanks for the tip. I can't wait to fire it up...wish I didn't have to drive back to MI today! I have a friend getting married this weekend. This will be a big set-back in my work time...oh, well...Then next Fri will be my 1st trip to Carlisle!

btw...how does one get to post pics on here?

BW
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Old Aug 17, 2006 | 09:16 AM
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no need to replace the bellhousing.....any competant machine shop can heli-coli the holes.
...redvetracr
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Old Aug 17, 2006 | 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by redvetracr
no need to replace the bellhousing.....any competant machine shop can heli-coli the holes.
...redvetracr
I have faith in Helicoil but not in an area such as this
I Helicoiled 2 stripped holes on my 70' El Camino bell housing and they loosened up in no time, had to tighten them repeatedly until they finally stripped out again.
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Old Aug 17, 2006 | 11:59 AM
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i agree, bob

i've tried this in the past on the stem for my mtnbike...not a good situation! i'll just replace if needed. i'm thinking that the upper 2 bolts bit in due to remnant thread lock since they are 7/16. i'll put in the correct 1/2 and make sure all is well before driving. however, it'll be a while until i get it to the point of registering it to be driven. i want to replace the suspension 1st, as i do not think it is safe to drive above 25mph until that is done...
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Old Aug 17, 2006 | 02:13 PM
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If you got the heli coil route use studs then you will not get twisting of the helicoil in the alum, should work fine then
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