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Anyone made a 377?

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Old Aug 17, 2006 | 09:48 PM
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Default Anyone made a 377?

I had soem extra parts laying around, and was tempted to build a unique motor for my '77 once. I decided against using it in my Vette, but I still kinda want to build the motor for fun's sake.

From my understanding, using a 400 block, and a 350 crank and bearing kit, would make a 377 CI motor. Unique to say the least, and I'll bet it'd be a good high RPM motor. Maybe for a race car?

I think it'd be cool to have a 377 in my garage.
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Old Aug 17, 2006 | 10:03 PM
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The 400 blocks were notorious for thin cylinder walls. That is why you rarely see a 400 built to anything. Might be a short lived project, but any rebuild can be fun. Learning experience if nothing else.
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Old Aug 17, 2006 | 10:26 PM
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Originally Posted by TexSon
The 400 blocks were notorious for thin cylinder walls. That is why you rarely see a 400 built to anything. Might be a short lived project, but any rebuild can be fun. Learning experience if nothing else.
What. You see 400+ motors here all the time. The 406, 415 and 421 are all very good motors tha tproduce a lot of HP. They have even gone to 434 but that is pushing it. Properly built these are very good motors. Some 400s had some core shift in them so you have to be careful which one you use.
Why would you go smaller? I have driven a 421 that would rip your socks off. I should have bought the motor. If I had a 400 block I would not go smaller than 415. Cubes = HP and torque.
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Old Aug 17, 2006 | 10:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Gordonm
If I had a 400 block I would not go smaller than 415. Cubes = HP and torque.

I know, but I already have a 400 that I'm building up for my Vette. This is a spare, 2 bolt block I picked up as a spare with a lot of parts. I just liked the look of 377. Unique. Performance aside.
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Old Aug 17, 2006 | 10:31 PM
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Originally Posted by TexSon
The 400 blocks were notorious for thin cylinder walls. That is why you rarely see a 400 built to anything. Might be a short lived project, but any rebuild can be fun. Learning experience if nothing else.
Wow another urban myth shot all to heill, I guess that's why you can't find them anymore, and if you can there $500 for a bare block now. No one uses them to build 406ci, 412, 415, 421, 427 and 434ci motors ?

377ci is but you can't beat cubic inches, build a 406ci
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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 08:20 AM
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Build a 406

...or build a destroker using a 327 crank, .030 over 400 block and thick bearing shells. That would be fun. Big unshrouded bore, short stroke and revs to the moon.

-Mark.
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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 08:24 AM
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Default 377 cool!

I happen to agree. I think a 377 would be really neat. Great bore to stroke raito. OK, you'll give up some torque and have to rev the b*lls out of it, but that's neat itself. I think the Cheetahs used such a combo. I screwed up and never bought a junker when I had a chance. What about the GranSports? Did they use a 377? Its been done quite a bit for racing, i.e. HP is dependant on RPM as we all know. Let us know how it comes out.

carbster
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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 08:32 AM
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377 can be bad; buddy raced one for years
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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 08:35 AM
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If you are looking for something different then go ahead and build one. If you are looking for HP and torque go with more cubes. Yes it will rev quite good but that does not always make good HP. The 421 I drove would pull real hard to 7600 rpm. No need to rev it higher.
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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 10:45 AM
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Will be a moot point if you can't get the bearing inserts...not sure if they are still available.
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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Durango_boy
I had soem extra parts laying around, and was tempted to build a unique motor for my '77 once. I decided against using it in my Vette, but I still kinda want to build the motor for fun's sake.

From my understanding, using a 400 block, and a 350 crank and bearing kit, would make a 377 CI motor. Unique to say the least, and I'll bet it'd be a good high RPM motor. Maybe for a race car?

I think it'd be cool to have a 377 in my garage.
I have one on a stand right now ... +30 2bolt 400 block, steel GM 350 crank, 6" manley I-beam rods, hi-dome manley forged pistons. Hi-HP, Hi-RPM, less TQ. It is slightly used and in great shape. I got it out a "yankee" circle track car ... 377 combo does not fit our regional rules. This 377 SHORT block yours for $1600 ... firm. I'll crate it for $100 ... firm. I'll even throw in its Crower solid flat 230*/.480" cam.

*edit* Yes the "special" bearings remain readily available from Clevite ... as are the spacers that permit use of any 350 bearings.

Last edited by jackson; Aug 18, 2006 at 11:24 AM.
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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 11:43 AM
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http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...ion/index.html

I can't find it, but way back when hot rod mag did a 377 vs 383 comparison. All things the same they were very close to the same power output. And I mean the same. They used the same intake, carb, heads, headers. I think the only thing different was the bumpstick which they matched to work with the two different size engines or did they leave that the same. The article above builds a 377 using the lunati kit, so it shouldn't be hard to find the parts to build a 377. 377's are very popular in the dirt track areana, due to the high reving nature amongst other things. If you look into a winston cup motor, you'll see that they are based bascially on the same prinicpal. shortest storke, largest bore possible to get 358 cubes.

I say build it, put it in something light like an s10 short bed and have a blast watching the tach climb.
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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by jackson
This 377 SHORT block yours for $1600 ... firm. I'll crate it for $100 ... firm. I'll even throw in its Crower solid flat 230*/.480" cam.

Sounds like a good motor to sell on Ebay my friend. Personally I won't be interested for a price liek that. I cold build one similar for 1/3 that price. I already have the block, and rotating assembly. All I need is bearings, spacers, a cool cam and lifter combo, and WHAM...377.
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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 02:57 PM
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My 4-bolt 400 block that's bored out .060 over was built as a 377. It was in a race car for a very short time before the guy blew the heads. I never saw the heads, but I'm betting he didn't drill the steam holes. You can get great things at the spring swap meet at the Boone County fairgrounds - this year I found a good set of ARP 4-bolt 400 main cap studs for $20.
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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Durango_boy
Sounds like a good motor to sell on Ebay my friend. Personally I won't be interested for a price liek that. I cold build one similar for 1/3 that price. I already have the block, and rotating assembly. All I need is bearings, spacers, a cool cam and lifter combo, and WHAM...377.
You might try to run the thicker bearing shells if at all possible rather than the bearing spacers. I have not run one of these but I guy who has done it many times once told me of his experience with spacers and he was not fond of them. He feels the thicker shells dissipate the heat better due to one less oiled surface interface. Not sure if that is what caused his spacer engine failures but this guy has blown a few 3.48" cranks in his time and he likes the thicker bearings better.

FWIW.

-Mark.
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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by stingr69
You might try to run the thicker bearing shells if at all possible rather than the bearing spacers. I have not run one of these but I guy who has done it many times once told me of his experience with spacers and he was not fond of them. He feels the thicker shells dissipate the heat better due to one less oiled surface interface. Not sure if that is what caused his spacer engine failures but this guy has blown a few 3.48" cranks in his time and he likes the thicker bearings better.

FWIW.

-Mark.
Good info, I'll keep an eye out for some of those.
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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by 442olds
377's are very popular in the dirt track areana, due to the high reving nature amongst other things. If you look into a winston cup motor, you'll see that they are based bascially on the same prinicpal. shortest storke, largest bore possible to get 358 cubes.
General theme for most cup motors is 4.125" bore (400) x 3.25" stroke (327) ... 'though, many slight variations.
Originally Posted by Durango_boy
Sounds like a good motor to sell on Ebay my friend. Personally I won't be interested for a price liek that. I cold build one similar for 1/3 that price. I already have the block, and rotating assembly. All I need is bearings, spacers, a cool cam and lifter combo, and WHAM...377.
400 block w/350 crank "special" main bearings are Clevite P/N MS-1564. Just an opinion, suggest best STREET use for a good 400 block is 3.75" stroke or more. If you want to build a 377, I encourage you to go for it. Without lotsa existing parts/free machinework, I suggest it'd be difficult to duplicate a 377 short block like mine for $500-$600 ... very.
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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by jackson
I suggest it'd be difficult to duplicate a 377 short block like mine for $500-$600 ... very.

I'll give you that. I will do a minimum of machine work, and use a large lot of extra parts I have around.
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Old Aug 19, 2006 | 03:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Durango_boy
I had soem extra parts laying around, and was tempted to build a unique motor for my '77 once. I decided against using it in my Vette, but I still kinda want to build the motor for fun's sake.

From my understanding, using a 400 block, and a 350 crank and bearing kit, would make a 377 CI motor. Unique to say the least, and I'll bet it'd be a good high RPM motor. Maybe for a race car?

I think it'd be cool to have a 377 in my garage.
How high in RPM are you willing to rev the motor?? If your not going
use a cam that makes power to 7500/8000 RPM and use gearing to make up for loss of torque down low then you would be better off using a 3.75 crank and turning the motor slower revs.
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Old Aug 19, 2006 | 05:38 AM
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i'd vote size
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