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I wanted to know if there were any complaints with this system? I read many threads on this am havent really found any. But I have seen many from the steeriods, which I was going to get for my '79. So if the cost is less and I'm going to get better results than I thinking Jeep box. I have seen the kit from corvette steering and its all bolt in and the pitman arm issue has been resolved, but looks like there mite have to be fabrication to the column. So If any of you guys can help with your opinion I would appreciate it.
There is NO fabrication to the steering column. You just collapse it or push the end in from the engine side to shorten it.
This is done with both systems.
i love the jeep box. I bought a scaled down version of the kit since I had to plumb in a hydraboost at the same time. The only complaint I have is that I bought mine before they started making the newer cut pitman shaft to use the stock pitman arm. If you don't switch to a manual drag link you will need to do some work to get the sloppyness out of the spring loaded power steering drag link, but its just a matter of stacking some washers in place of the spring and getting the preload right.
As for the column, Its really easy to fix but I didn't have any instructions, so a quick call to vette steering and the use of a big hammer and a few taps collapsed the column so that the steering box and coupler had plenty of room and the steering column lined up with its mounts.
The box works great, goes lock to lock and you don't have to worry about flimsy steel bolt on brackets and tie rod plates loosening up, or adding slop to the system like the steering rack kit.
Not to hijack the thread, but it is pretty hard to find a manual drag link. I've been looking for quite awhile and haven't seen any. If anybody knows of a source let me know.
Not to hijack the thread, but it is pretty hard to find a manual drag link. I've been looking for quite awhile and haven't seen any. If anybody knows of a source let me know.
Call Gruhala Enterprises in DeSoto, MO. I'm pretty sure he has a few laying around. I put an ad in the parts wanted section here a few months ago and got several responses. Ended up getting one for $55.
didnt think manual drag links were that hard to find. well if it is sensitive, i guess its better than rthe original set up. i think i wil lgo with it an see whats up. its just i here to many complaints with the steeriods for me to be spending 1200 bucks.
Not to hijack the thread, but it is pretty hard to find a manual drag link. I've been looking for quite awhile and haven't seen any. If anybody knows of a source let me know.
If you shim the stock control valve, remember you are unbolting the control side and throwing it away. You then shim the ball stud and install the cover plate supplied with the kit. It then becomes a solid link and no need to find a manual one.
when you ''collapse'' the column a couple inches all you have to do is tap the column with a hammer then pull it back down to hook up? by doing this you dont have to remove the column or anything else?
There is a plastic pin that holds the lower column in place, couple taps of a hammer shears it if it is still there, replace the plastic bushing while you are at it
I had to take my column out, but it was really not that bad. I used it as an opportunity to replace the bearings in the steering column. Be very careful what you tap the end of the column with. If you mushroom it, it will be a lot more work. Several guys just levered it up with a 2x4.
There is NO fabrication to the steering column. You just collapse it or push the end in from the engine side to shorten it.
This is done with both systems.
you put a ton of hours welding on your frame. I assume the unit is desinged to be a bolt on.
I can't remember why you did so much work to your frame in that area.
He did that to stiffen it up and to improve the angle of the box, that area right there is the weakest part of the frame. I don't think it took Norval hours of welding, maybe 15 minutes tops
If you shim the stock control valve, remember you are unbolting the control side and throwing it away. You then shim the ball stud and install the cover plate supplied with the kit. It then becomes a solid link and no need to find a manual one.
Norval, is it just as good as a manual drag link? Tom @ Corvette Steering indicated that the best was to get a manual link to replace the PS link.
Another question (I am a little dense) Why is there a ball mount on the drag link anyway?
Not to hijack the thread, but it is pretty hard to find a manual drag link. I've been looking for quite awhile and haven't seen any. If anybody knows of a source let me know.
I know where there are supposedly 3 for $75 each, but I'm not saying until I get mine. Darn it, I had high bid on ebay & at the last minute someone jumped in & upped my bid by 3 times & snatched it.
thanks for everyones opinion, i think i will go with this system instead of steeriods. i will be putting it in when i pull the engine so maybe it wont be to much of a p.i.t.a. i just didnt want to pull the column and open another can o worms
Norval, is it just as good as a manual drag link? Tom @ Corvette Steering indicated that the best was to get a manual link to replace the PS link.
Another question (I am a little dense) Why is there a ball mount on the drag link anyway?
The manual center link would be the best option, on the PS one there's a ball mount for the power steering valve, that's where the slop in the steering comes from, that balljoint has to move a little to switch the assist direcytion. However, a small amount of play transmitted intop the steering shaft will end up to be quite a bit on center play with the much larger steering wheel.