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Is it reasonable to expect your carb choke plate to be 99% closed when dead cold and 99% open when fully warmed? Should it be completely open after driving 20 minutes when your water temperature is stable?
I am still fighting with my new Holley electric choke trying to get it to operate just right each and every time. Most often when its cold, the plate is about 90% closed and when its warm its about 75% open. I can adjust it to make it close completely and then it doesn't want to open completely and vise versa.
It shouldn't be completely closed. You should have instructions for how to set the choke, and if not you can get them from www.Holley.com in their tech. The choke will be nearly closed, but it shouldn't be closed to the point that there is tension slamming it shut. And it's a choke blade. The butterfly is the throttle.
I ran mine for about 10 years without a choke at all as well, but it seemed to have to run on the rich side to start it like that. I thought maybe with a real choke I could lean it out into the normal range.
I fooled with this thing another hour today. Sometimes I wonder if "cold" in FL is still about 110 degrees under the hood. BTW, its still not right. I can make it easy to start without touching anything but the key, but then it never seems to open up fully. The battle continues.
With carbs and chokes, to start you should pump the pedal once to set the choke for a cold start and get a shot from the accelerator pump. Then after it warms a little you blip the throttle again and the choke should open either partially or fully depending on the heat of the engine or the choke setting. If you have a fully warmed engine, opening the throttle linkage should spring the choke plate to full open or verticle. In Florida the choke need not be adjusted as "choked" as in colder climates.
Tonight I tried an experiment of my own and we will see how it works out tomorrow and during the weekend.
I had my wife hit the pedal once like you said, but with the choke plate fully open. Then I had her crank the engine while I turned the adjustment **** on the electric choke until the car started, then stopped the counterclockwise rotation. I tighten it up on that position, which happened to be on the quickest choke release notch on the electric choke. Lastly I started the cold engine a few times and it worked well. Finally, as usual, I ran out of daylight.
Tomorrow I will run it 30 minutes or so and make sure the choke opens back up when completely warm. My most current thoughts were that an electric choke does not use the engine warmth, but uses its own electric coil as a timer for the choke. Who knows, it might be 125+ degrees under a dark colored hood in Central Florida before I even put the key in. That would skew what was "normal" vs what is "normal for FL".
BTW, I could be wrong and I reserve the right to plead temporary insanity at any time. Not that anyone is immune from going crazy working on these kind of things.
And you would be thinking correctly. There is supposed to be 12V to the choke coil at all times when the engine is running. The electrical current running through the choke coil to ground, heats the coil. This makes it unwind (or wind up, I forget which). As the coil does its thing, it forces the choke blade to open.