Epoxy for lifter gallery screens
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
Likes: 12
From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Epoxy for lifter gallery screens
As susggested by other on another post on installing lifter valley screens I did go to a finer screen, I did double nut it and got rid of the nylon lock washers and I WILL expoxy along the edges.
My problem is what epoxy to use?
I have access to alot of good epoxys but I am afraid to trust just anything.
I am considering JB weld bond? It has a good reputation but will it stand the hot oil?
Anyone have an idea as to what the kits would use??
Thanks
This is an old shot of the coarer screen. I do have the new finer screen install, just no pictures.
I want to do all around the edges to prevent the tiny rollers from dropping into the pan if a roller rocker lets go.
My problem is what epoxy to use?
I have access to alot of good epoxys but I am afraid to trust just anything.
I am considering JB weld bond? It has a good reputation but will it stand the hot oil?
Anyone have an idea as to what the kits would use??
Thanks
This is an old shot of the coarer screen. I do have the new finer screen install, just no pictures.
I want to do all around the edges to prevent the tiny rollers from dropping into the pan if a roller rocker lets go.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
Likes: 12
From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Originally Posted by 1BAD80
We use JB Weld on our drag motors without any failure. Takes the heat of nitro.
Clean with Brake Clean or something like it before applying.
Clean with Brake Clean or something like it before applying.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,883
Likes: 124
From: Lubbock TX
Norval, before you epoxy 'em in place, use a wide putty knife or something similar to make a good "V" in the center of each screen. This will force the draining oil to drop straight down onto the cam lobes from the low point of the "V" rather than clinging to the underside of the cam tunnel and draining below the cam with hardly any dripping directly onto the cam lobes. I don't know that it does any good with the oil monsoon happening inside the engine but I've tried it on bare blocks and watched thru the cam tunnel and it makes a noticeable difference.
Moroso makes epoxy for that job but I'd probably try some good ol' J B Chemweld. I have a racing buddy witha silver dollar size piece of the side of his block held in place for over 5 years with it with no problems to this point.
Moroso makes epoxy for that job but I'd probably try some good ol' J B Chemweld. I have a racing buddy witha silver dollar size piece of the side of his block held in place for over 5 years with it with no problems to this point.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,892
Likes: 13
From: Pettis Performance 565 with two stages of Nitrous Supply nitrous 1.082, 4.61 at 155, 7.17 at 192
Originally Posted by L88Plus
Norval, before you epoxy 'em in place, use a wide putty knife or something similar to make a good "V" in the center of each screen. This will force the draining oil to drop straight down onto the cam lobes from the low point of the "V" rather than clinging to the underside of the cam tunnel and draining below the cam with hardly any dripping directly onto the cam lobes. I don't know that it does any good with the oil monsoon happening inside the engine but I've tried it on bare blocks and watched thru the cam tunnel and it makes a noticeable difference.
Moroso makes epoxy for that job but I'd probably try some good ol' J B Chemweld. I have a racing buddy witha silver dollar size piece of the side of his block held in place for over 5 years with it with no problems to this point.
Moroso makes epoxy for that job but I'd probably try some good ol' J B Chemweld. I have a racing buddy witha silver dollar size piece of the side of his block held in place for over 5 years with it with no problems to this point.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
Likes: 12
From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Originally Posted by L88Plus
Norval, before you epoxy 'em in place, use a wide putty knife or something similar to make a good "V" in the center of each screen. This will force the draining oil to drop straight down onto the cam lobes from the low point of the "V" rather than clinging to the underside of the cam tunnel and draining below the cam with hardly any dripping directly onto the cam lobes. .
Thank you
Racer
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 352
Likes: 0
From: Frisco, TX
Norval,
Just out of curiosity, why did you ditch the lock nuts? Were you concerned that the nylon would break down when subjected to lots of hot oil? My screens are only epoxied in, so you have gone one step further, which is cool.
Nick
Just out of curiosity, why did you ditch the lock nuts? Were you concerned that the nylon would break down when subjected to lots of hot oil? My screens are only epoxied in, so you have gone one step further, which is cool.
Nick
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Corvettes Ever Sold on Bring A Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Things Every Corvette Owner Needs (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
8 Most "Only Corvette Owners Understand" Quirks and Problems
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Reasons the C6 Z06 is Still A Performance Benchmark After 20 Years
Joe Kucinski
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 13,019
Likes: 2,262
From: Corsicana, Tx
2020 C2 of the Year - Modified Winner
2020 Corvette of the Year (performance mods)
C2 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019
2017 C2 of Year Finalist
I just epoxied mine in,,but I punched little hole right above each lifter to get oil to drain onl lobes.
JIM
JIM
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,024
Likes: 1
From: AL
just thinking out loud . . .
seems like just about any ordinary screen configuration would be much better than no screen as far as oiling cam journals goes, i.e.,
without screen=little or no chance of additional oiling,
with screen (any configuration)=better than no screen,
just seems like . . . (maybe this thinking is flawed if the oil in that part of the engine is being whipped around too violently; i've don't ever recall seeing any discussion on this particular subject other than here)
as far as getting oil back to the sump, i wasn't aware that this area with screens was a bottleneck. also thought BB had inherently less problems (returning oil) than SB for some reason. was this wrong?
without screen=little or no chance of additional oiling,
with screen (any configuration)=better than no screen,
just seems like . . . (maybe this thinking is flawed if the oil in that part of the engine is being whipped around too violently; i've don't ever recall seeing any discussion on this particular subject other than here)
as far as getting oil back to the sump, i wasn't aware that this area with screens was a bottleneck. also thought BB had inherently less problems (returning oil) than SB for some reason. was this wrong?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 5,727
Likes: 38
From: Fremont CA
JB Weld was developed by inventor to repair Ford flathead blocks cracked by Winter freezing (something I don't have to deal with in California.) We have actually found JB Weld to work better than Moroso or Manley branded A-B type epoxy for cast iron blocks (A-B seems to hold better on aluminum parts, I think it has to do with the bigger heat expansion of aluminum compared to cast iron.)
