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trouble with strut rod removeal

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Old Sep 9, 2001 | 01:49 PM
  #1  
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Default trouble with strut rod removeal

Hello friends
I am in the process of putting new rear strut rods on my 79, but I cant get the the strut rod out of the trailing arm support. This is the part that holds the shock on also,any advice out there???????


thanks Bill B
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Old Sep 9, 2001 | 01:58 PM
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Default Re: trouble with strut rod removeal (bbryant200)

Lots of penetrating oil and brute force! Get a bigger hammer! :D

I had to hit it so hard with a 5 pounder that the car almost fell off the jackstands a couple of times!

BTW, you'll have to protect the threads of the shock mount somehow, if you're not going to replace them. Otherwise it will mushroom. You should use a special tool made for this (most catalogs have'em), or improvise something with two nuts and a bolt.

Hope this helps!

-Pedro
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Old Sep 9, 2001 | 03:51 PM
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Default Re: trouble with strut rod removeal (bbryant200)

Pedro
Hey thanks for the imformation,Yes I did use a 2lb. sledge, and I knocked the#%$^&&** out of it, and it worked.
Next question is it gonna go back on easier than it come off????

thanks Bill B
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Old Sep 9, 2001 | 04:35 PM
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Default Re: trouble with strut rod removeal (bbryant200)

Haven't gotten to that point yet myself but I would imagine it will go back on easier (providing you didn't screw up the threads). Once you get a few threads showing, just put the nut on the end and it should pull the shock mount through. Keeping my fingers crossed.

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Old Sep 9, 2001 | 05:20 PM
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Default Re: trouble with strut rod removeal (sharklover)

sharklover is right, once you get a few threads showing you can pull through with a nut and washers. lou
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Old Sep 9, 2001 | 06:10 PM
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Default Re: trouble with strut rod removeal (lou)

I think the guys are right if you're reinstalling the old mounts--cuz then they've already "indented" the spindle "ears". In my case I replaced the mounts, and had to use almost as much brute force as I used to remove them. A process of hit-damn-thing-real-hard --> tighten nut repeated hundreds of times.

-Pedro
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Old Sep 9, 2001 | 10:23 PM
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Default Re: trouble with strut rod removeal (bbryant200)

Don't forget to put a little "never-seize" on the threads and shaft.
Gary
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Old Sep 9, 2001 | 11:10 PM
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Default Re: trouble with strut rod removeal (bbryant200)

They go on hard too. I had to move each arm with my jack to get it to line up.
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Old Sep 9, 2001 | 11:26 PM
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Default Re: trouble with strut rod removeal (bbryant200)

I have a new pair of strut rods to put on my Vette as well.
I sure was hoping to see someone reply to this post with some sort of magic trick that makes shock mount removal EASY!

No such luck though, I guess that penetrating oil, a BIG HAMMER and beer are the only tools for the job.:smash:
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Old Sep 17, 2001 | 10:21 PM
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Default Re: trouble with strut rod removeal (Pedro'74)

I think the guys are right if you're reinstalling the old mounts--cuz then they've already "indented" the spindle "ears". In my case I replaced the mounts, and had to use almost as much brute force as I used to remove them. A process of hit-damn-thing-real-hard --> tighten nut repeated hundreds of times.

-Pedro
Pedro is absolutely correct on this one. See this thread:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=152387

My mounts came out fairly easy. I bought the $12 tool from VB&P and just followed their instructions. Screw the "tool" on all the way and torque it to 25 ft-lbs. then hit it with the hammer. Hit the shock mount back in, make sure the tool is torqued fine, and hit it with the hammer again. Do that a couple times, remove the "tool" and use a pickle fork to pry the mount out the rest of the way. I borrowed a tie rod removal tool (pickle fork) from Autozone and didn't have any problems. My only problem was getting the shock off of the mount to begin with. The washer wouldn't come off, I had to grab it with channel-locks and "unscrew" it. After that, the shock came off just fine.

Anyway, be careful when putting on brand new mounts. I'd hate for any of you to spend more money just because you didn't learn from my mistake. I wish I had paid attention to Pedro's post before I went to work on mine, completely slipped my mind while I was working. BTW, the torque spec for the castle nut on the shock mount is 75+, just be sure to tighten it with the trailing arm at ride height (approximately level to the ground). You will also want to raise the trailing arm to ease installation of the strut rods.
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Old Sep 17, 2001 | 10:35 PM
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Default Re: trouble with strut rod removeal (MIKER)

Miker- I too am getting ready for these strut rod replacements. Haven't received them from MADvet yet. Wanted to see if there was that experienced story to make ours easier. Anyways, I like the penetrant "PB Blaster", it really works great. I have been soaking them regularly till the new adjustables get shipped! I want to install new rear shocks when I do mine, any thoughts out there for shock brands & models?
C3r :chevy
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Old Sep 17, 2001 | 11:30 PM
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Default Re: trouble with strut rod removeal (SEE3ER)

For removal, after soaking the shock mounts with penetrant, I wonder if using heat from a cutting torch would help?

For installation, place the shock mounts in the freezer for shrinkage and use the torch on the trailing arm to expand the hole.

Would these techniques help any? At the very least, it can't hurt anything and doesn't really cost anything either. I'll probably try this unless someone has a good reason not to.

The '63-'82 rear suspension design is such a pain in the rump! :cry

For the most part, I simply need to find some TIME to "just do it!"
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Old Sep 17, 2001 | 11:59 PM
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Default Re: trouble with strut rod removeal (bbryant200)


When I did the rear suspension, I put the nut on flush with the stop of the stud and gave it a few whacks :smash:
Since it was a little rusty I cleaned it up a bit with some emery cloth. It was easier to place back on...
Now, talking about hard things, how about removing a broken rear spring mount bolt...
Even drilling through it and using a hard-out, it still didn't budge :mad

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Old Sep 18, 2001 | 12:52 AM
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Default Re: trouble with strut rod removeal (adam)

how about removing a broken rear spring mount bolt...
Even drilling through it and using a hard-out, it still didn't budge :mad
I'm glad (and very lucky) that I didn't have that problem. I probably would have if I hadn't heard an odd clunk and looked underneath the car. One of the bolts was missing and the spring was sitting crooked (probably from drag racing). The other bolts had backed out a bit too. 20 years of driving will do that. Guys and gals, if you haven't checked the torque on the spring mounting bolts, it might be a good idea to do it soon. I've talked to a few people that say those bolts have a tendancy to back out. Consult your manual as torque specs vary for fiberglass and steel as well as year. Since it's quite possible the spring could have been replaced, ensure you are checking torque specs for the proper spring. Do not torque the center bolts with the suspension sagging (rear raised off ground) as this could result in a broken rear diff cover.
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Old Sep 18, 2001 | 09:21 AM
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Default Re: trouble with strut rod removeal (SEE3ER)

Miker- I too am getting ready for these strut rod replacements. Haven't received them from MADvet yet. Wanted to see if there was that experienced story to make ours easier. Anyways, I like the penetrant "PB Blaster", it really works great. I have been soaking them regularly till the new adjustables get shipped! I want to install new rear shocks when I do mine, any thoughts out there for shock brands & models?
C3r :chevy
C3r

Haven't used the adjustables myself, but helped a freind change out his for them. Be sure to tighten the lock nuts VERY well, and add some "thread lock" or similar. My budddy noticed that they have a tendancy to wind undone!!

I hope you ordered the shock mount removal tool from MAD as well? Soaking the old mounts helps. Remove the nut, bolt on th eremover tightly and whack it with a 5lb hammer. If your car is generally rust free, then the mounts will probably come out OK....

I used copper grease on all the components I was putting back on mine (and my buddy's). The new mounts should go in far enough to locate the "flat", and then I tightened up the nut to pull them through. They are hard, but neither I nor my buddy needed to resort to hitting them from the "out" side. As has been said, don't fully tighten anything untill the car is on the ground.
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