Rebuilt motor running hot
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 205
Likes: 15
From: East Greenwich NJ
Rebuilt motor running hot
I just had a rebuild on my '69 427 tri-power. My goal was to keep a stock appearance, reduce compression to help it run on pump gas, and maintain if not increase HP. My engine builder did all of the above, including using a hydraulic roller cam (full Crane kit). My mechanic (Corvette specialist) now has the motor back in and tells me that it is running VERY strong (the builder predicted the combination would aproach 500 fw HP), but it is now running too hot.
Here is my question. I am not much of a wrench turner. I expect to have a variety of options presented to me, and I anticipate one of my options will be to move to a more modern radiator set up. I really want to keep a stock appearance. What do you all recommend, and what qustions should I be asking??
As always, your comments will be most appreciated.
Here is my question. I am not much of a wrench turner. I expect to have a variety of options presented to me, and I anticipate one of my options will be to move to a more modern radiator set up. I really want to keep a stock appearance. What do you all recommend, and what qustions should I be asking??
As always, your comments will be most appreciated.
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 4,071
Likes: 0
From: San Diego CA
Originally Posted by Shoevette
I just had a rebuild on my '69 427 tri-power. My goal was to keep a stock appearance, reduce compression to help it run on pump gas, and maintain if not increase HP. My engine builder did all of the above, including using a hydraulic roller cam (full Crane kit). My mechanic (Corvette specialist) now has the motor back in and tells me that it is running VERY strong (the builder predicted the combination would aproach 500 fw HP), but it is now running too hot.
Here is my question. I am not much of a wrench turner. I expect to have a variety of options presented to me, and I anticipate one of my options will be to move to a more modern radiator set up. I really want to keep a stock appearance. What do you all recommend, and what qustions should I be asking??
As always, your comments will be most appreciated.
Here is my question. I am not much of a wrench turner. I expect to have a variety of options presented to me, and I anticipate one of my options will be to move to a more modern radiator set up. I really want to keep a stock appearance. What do you all recommend, and what qustions should I be asking??
As always, your comments will be most appreciated.
Well rihwoods has a 502 in his '69 and has a 4 row c/b radiator and hasn't mentioned any cooling issues.
If your radiator is over 7 years old, that'd be the first thing I'd upgrade. Several choices on it. I went with a Northern Factory and very happy with it. Others on the forum have gone with Dewitts and have said nothing but good things about his product. There are also those that use nothing but copper/brass oem type replacements with good results also.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 205
Likes: 15
From: East Greenwich NJ
At this point I have been told it boiled over -- don't know the temp. The actual mecahnic is supposed to call me tomorrow.
I suppose my main qustion is this -- With a mildly worked motor, can I get away with a stock radiator? I want the answer to be "yes' but will listen to your input.
Shoevette
I suppose my main qustion is this -- With a mildly worked motor, can I get away with a stock radiator? I want the answer to be "yes' but will listen to your input.
Shoevette
Racer
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 454
Likes: 0
From: SAN CLEMENTE CALIFORNIA
mostly stock 454
with stock rad I was running around 215 225 without a/c on in 90 up degree weather. worst when stoped.
with a alum rad that I am still playing with At 70 mph on the freeway with out the a/c running about 190 at a stop sign it gos to 195-200
At this time I have a 185 thermostat I want to run with a 195 and without to see what it does.
I guess my point is you just have to try different things to find what works best. Darrow
with stock rad I was running around 215 225 without a/c on in 90 up degree weather. worst when stoped.
with a alum rad that I am still playing with At 70 mph on the freeway with out the a/c running about 190 at a stop sign it gos to 195-200
At this time I have a 185 thermostat I want to run with a 195 and without to see what it does.
I guess my point is you just have to try different things to find what works best. Darrow
Race Director
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 10,674
Likes: 122
From: Millington Illinois
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
Originally Posted by Shoevette
I just had a rebuild on my '69 427 tri-power. My goal was to keep a stock appearance, reduce compression to help it run on pump gas, and maintain if not increase HP. My engine builder did all of the above, including using a hydraulic roller cam (full Crane kit). My mechanic (Corvette specialist) now has the motor back in and tells me that it is running VERY strong (the builder predicted the combination would aproach 500 fw HP), but it is now running too hot.
Here is my question. I am not much of a wrench turner. I expect to have a variety of options presented to me, and I anticipate one of my options will be to move to a more modern radiator set up. I really want to keep a stock appearance. What do you all recommend, and what qustions should I be asking??
As always, your comments will be most appreciated.
Here is my question. I am not much of a wrench turner. I expect to have a variety of options presented to me, and I anticipate one of my options will be to move to a more modern radiator set up. I really want to keep a stock appearance. What do you all recommend, and what qustions should I be asking??
As always, your comments will be most appreciated.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 9,993
Likes: 1,136
From: League City Tx
ON my dad's 69 427, we have the factory brass/copper type radiator in it. It also has the stock replacement water pump, 160* stat and factory clutch fan. With 4.11s it hits around 210* on the freeway at 60mph, about 3000rpms, but when it comes down to an idle, the temp drops to 190-200*. The hottest it got this summer was on a 100 mile freeway cruise when we were trying to run 65-70mph about 3500rpms it hit 220*. It actually cools down at idle. NO ac though.
This is a stock compression 390hp 427 with a solid roller cam, headers, cast iron intake and q-junk. This was on pump gas.
This is a stock compression 390hp 427 with a solid roller cam, headers, cast iron intake and q-junk. This was on pump gas.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 816
Likes: 1
From: Finland
Originally Posted by ajrothm
ON my dad's 69 427, we have the factory brass/copper type radiator in it. It also has the stock replacement water pump, 160* stat and factory clutch fan. With 4.11s it hits around 210* on the freeway at 60mph, about 3000rpms, but when it comes down to an idle, the temp drops to 190-200*. The hottest it got this summer was on a 100 mile freeway cruise when we were trying to run 65-70mph about 3500rpms it hit 220*. It actually cools down at idle. NO ac though.
This is a stock compression 390hp 427 with a solid roller cam, headers, cast iron intake and q-junk. This was on pump gas.
This is a stock compression 390hp 427 with a solid roller cam, headers, cast iron intake and q-junk. This was on pump gas.
2nd Gear
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: COLONIAL HEIGHTS VIRGINIA
600 hp small block, stock radaitor
i run 600 hp, 13.25 compression with a stock radaitor with an after market electric pull fan and never get over 210' on 1/4 mile pass @ 142mph turning 7800 rpm. you may have a worn clutch on your fan or maybe radaitor is clogged
