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Cool man. Batman and I will probably be working on this tonight, and he's sure getting the spring in and out is easier than I think. Hopefully it'll give me close the 2" I want from the drop.
Did the drop affect your driveline angle?
I havent had time to even get it out of the garage. KC got slammed with storms last night.
Make sure you get your springs rotated correctly in the upper pocket so your spring fits snug against the stop...
The engine/trans sits at a specific angle, so the carb essentially remains level. Bu dropping the front 2" I'm changing the overall angle of the driveline, and in effect tilting the carb forward. I was just wondering if it's to a degree that would make a difference.
Check some of my older posts on replacing front springs, it's an easy job, support the front correctly and give yourself plenty of room to lower the lower control arm. Use a floor jack under the lower control arm, disconnect the stabilizer bar, remove the shocks, remove bolts/rivets on the lower ball joint,(good time to install a new ball joint) remove the retaining nut, from the front of the car let the jack drop slowly lowering the control arm. The spring will stay in the pockets, when fully lowered you will jiggle the spring out. Swing the steering knuckle out of the way. I went with new springs from VB&P since the stock ones were old, new springs will be around $80. and you'll know they are balanced. Use a cut off wheel to cut the springs, again very easy just remove alittle at a time and reinstall to check the height your looking for. Be carefull in lowering the rear, you want those half shafts level to prevent unecessary wear on the u joints...jmo have fun
Check some of my older posts on replacing front springs, it's an easy job, support the front correctly and give yourself plenty of room to lower the lower control arm. Use a floor jack under the lower control arm, disconnect the stabilizer bar, remove the shocks, remove bolts/rivets on the lower ball joint,(good time to install a new ball joint) remove the retaining nut, from the front of the car let the jack drop slowly lowering the control arm. The spring will stay in the pockets, when fully lowered you will jiggle the spring out. Swing the steering knuckle out of the way. I went with new springs from VB&P since the stock ones were old, new springs will be around $80. and you'll know they are balanced. Use a cut off wheel to cut the springs, again very easy just remove alittle at a time and reinstall to check the height your looking for. Be carefull in lowering the rear, you want those half shafts level to prevent unecessary wear on the u joints...jmo have fun
Great walk through. I got the breaks off, and everything prepped for the job. I probably won't get to it until Thurs now.
Also, I was not gonna lower the rear. I lik how it sits.
I remeasured last night. Cutting one full coil from the bottom dropped the fender lip from 28" to 26.75"...
It could go a little lower, but I dont want to mess with it right now.
I remeasured last night. Cutting one full coil from the bottom dropped the fender lip from 28" to 26.75"...
It could go a little lower, but I dont want to mess with it right now.
Good baseline. Are you happy with the results? You know, the new stance compared to the old? Are you going to drop the rear or leave it in the air?
You dropped the rear too didn't you? Are there reasons why I should drop mine too or will I be okay with dropping only the front? I think I will prefer the look with just a dropped front.
Check some of my older posts on replacing front springs, it's an easy job, support the front correctly and give yourself plenty of room to lower the lower control arm. Use a floor jack under the lower control arm, disconnect the stabilizer bar, remove the shocks, remove bolts/rivets on the lower ball joint,(good time to install a new ball joint) remove the retaining nut, from the front of the car let the jack drop slowly lowering the control arm. The spring will stay in the pockets, when fully lowered you will jiggle the spring out. Swing the steering knuckle out of the way. I went with new springs from VB&P since the stock ones were old, new springs will be around $80. and you'll know they are balanced. Use a cut off wheel to cut the springs, again very easy just remove alittle at a time and reinstall to check the height your looking for. Be carefull in lowering the rear, you want those half shafts level to prevent unecessary wear on the u joints...jmo have fun
May I add: For safety's sake, wrap a chain or rope through the spring and a frame member just in case it does pop out when lowering the control arm. I have never had it happen, but even if it doesn't hit you it could damage your car or fly across the garage. Cheap insurance.
May I add: For safety's sake, wrap a chain or rope through the spring and a frame member just in case it does pop out when lowering the control arm. I have never had it happen, but even if it doesn't hit you it could damage your car or fly across the garage. Cheap insurance.
John
That's a good idea, I wasjust gonna keep Batman between the spring and I. Heh heh. J/K Batman.
I like that idea, I was probably gonna chain it anyway.
Good baseline. Are you happy with the results? You know, the new stance compared to the old? Are you going to drop the rear or leave it in the air?
I will be lowering the rear too. It may already be a bit lowered. I installed the rear end lowering kit but didnt crank it down very far. Im going to take it out into the drive way and drop it a bit at a time til i get it almost level.
Im very satisfied with the front...for now. I want to see if it still drives nice. if so I may cut out another 1/4-1/2 coil
I will be lowering the rear too. It may already be a bit lowered. I installed the rear end lowering kit but didnt crank it down very far. Im going to take it out into the drive way and drop it a bit at a time til i get it almost level.
Im very satisfied with the front...for now. I want to see if it still drives nice. if so I may cut out another 1/4-1/2 coil
You dropped the rear too didn't you? Are there reasons why I should drop mine too or will I be okay with dropping only the front? I think I will prefer the look with just a dropped front.
No..still have the original 7 leaf on rear..it barely has arc left...also,the way I have rear camber set up (preference) does that...the 69 I run 245-60-15's front, 255-60-15's rear...got to change oil pan before I change/cut front springs on it...(must also divide funds between both.)..78 suspension now has priority now that 69 is where I want it re new rear spring/shocks...
But the 78 is lower all around...
Rich
Last edited by rihwoods; Aug 29, 2006 at 12:02 PM.
Cool, I love the looks of both. Steelers fan too huh? Did you see Big Ben refused to make a public statement about kids should wear head protection when a bike is riden?
Cool, I love the looks of both. Steelers fan too huh? Did you see Big Ben refused to make a public statement about kids should wear head protection when a bike is riden?
Missed that..been a Steelers fan since mid-60's...we are stuck with Chargers here...but not for long...
Be careful going 2"...if you miss calculate and go to low,you could mess up front geometry and never get it aligned....think two inches is relative to where you are at now..
Missed that..been a Steelers fan since mid-60's...we are stuck with Chargers here...but not for long...
Be careful going 2"...if you miss calculate and go to low,you could mess up front geometry and never get it aligned....think two inches is relative to where you are at now..
I'll cut one ring, and will actually garner me 1.25" to 1.50". I doubt I'll actually get 2".