S/R Torquer Heads
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 1,396
Likes: 6
From: Indiana
Re: S/R Torquer Heads (Steve Grodin)
Steve, I have been running mine for over a year now. These were designed to flow better than the heads used on the LT-1. I am in the process of installing a comp282S cam in my car now. I will post the results of how these work with this cam next weekend sometime. I expect it will run well past 6000 rpm easily, but won't know for sure until next weekend. I can tell you this. The low end torque is outstanding. The cam I am replacing was a hyd with 292 adv duration and 230 @.050. I am also running a single plane(torquer II ) intake. Both the intake and cam should cause a loss of low end torque, but it actually pulls very strong at low RPM and I can easily run 5th gear down to 1500rpm without any problems. The AFR's are most likely better heads, but you can't beat the price of these. Also consider the Chevy Vortec heads. These are $200 cheaper than the Torquers and will flow just as well.
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 1,361
Likes: 0
From: Honolulu Hawaii
Re: S/R Torquer Heads (Steve Grodin)
Great bang for the buck. I've read that they can add up to 30 horsepower and have good combustion characteristics (high swirl like Vortec heads). I can attest to the high quality of World Products heads & machining, good stuff.
Racer
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 395
Likes: 0
From: Mannford, OK, USA
Re: S/R Torquer Heads (nunus79)
Although the Vortec head is cheaper, you have to have a Vortec specific manifold and different valve covers which add to the price.
[Modified by majglc, 3:56 PM 9/11/2001]
[Modified by majglc, 3:56 PM 9/11/2001]
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 3,399
Likes: 278
From: Olmsted Falls, Ohio
Re: S/R Torquer Heads (Ganey)
I've got a set apart on the work bench now. A couple of things I found are:
The bowls are a little rough. By that I mean some of them have some real casting/mold chunks left in them that need to be taken down with a carbide bit or emery wheel.
Most of the ports look ok and these heads do have pretty good flow numbers, considering they are stock replacements (S/R).
The spring pockets do not leave enough room to install shims (even a .010) without having the spring slide out of the pocket. I was trying to correct the installed height to 1.70 (+- .015) per Comp Cams spring recommendations. Some of the installed heights are +-.020-.030. So without machine work I will not be able to correct.
Other than that the work looks good. I have seen Dart Iron Eagle heads with smaller chambers and no heat riser port. If I was buying new, I would at least look at the Dart heads. The Dart heads have bronze guides and have guideplates whereas with the S/R heads the guides are part of the casting (like stock) and you need to machine for guideplates.
The bowls are a little rough. By that I mean some of them have some real casting/mold chunks left in them that need to be taken down with a carbide bit or emery wheel.
Most of the ports look ok and these heads do have pretty good flow numbers, considering they are stock replacements (S/R).
The spring pockets do not leave enough room to install shims (even a .010) without having the spring slide out of the pocket. I was trying to correct the installed height to 1.70 (+- .015) per Comp Cams spring recommendations. Some of the installed heights are +-.020-.030. So without machine work I will not be able to correct.
Other than that the work looks good. I have seen Dart Iron Eagle heads with smaller chambers and no heat riser port. If I was buying new, I would at least look at the Dart heads. The Dart heads have bronze guides and have guideplates whereas with the S/R heads the guides are part of the casting (like stock) and you need to machine for guideplates.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 11,520
Likes: 13
From: CORVETTE 77 385 C.I. TEXAS
Re: S/R Torquer Heads (KenSny)
Ken
They were designed as performance heads to be better than ported double hump when GM had 0 unleaded performance heads. Available from some w/ bronze guides, 180 ports, etc. ready to go on. s/r was added later.
They were designed as performance heads to be better than ported double hump when GM had 0 unleaded performance heads. Available from some w/ bronze guides, 180 ports, etc. ready to go on. s/r was added later.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 3,399
Likes: 278
From: Olmsted Falls, Ohio
Re: S/R Torquer Heads (Ganey)
Ganey.
I know they flow a lot better than the stock 882 heads that I have. I picked them up used and am rebuilding. One head is from '91 and the other form '97. Not much difference to look and the quality is about the same. I suspect that for a "bolt together and run" set of heads they are more than good enough.
I was merely commenting on the extra work that might have to be done to make them a little more performance oriented. For street crusing they will be just fine.
I know they flow a lot better than the stock 882 heads that I have. I picked them up used and am rebuilding. One head is from '91 and the other form '97. Not much difference to look and the quality is about the same. I suspect that for a "bolt together and run" set of heads they are more than good enough.
I was merely commenting on the extra work that might have to be done to make them a little more performance oriented. For street crusing they will be just fine.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 951
Likes: 0
Re: S/R Torquer Heads (KenSny)
Ken & Ganey,
Thank's for your comments. I'm buying the heads for a local shop called M&M Heads. He buys the bare castings and sets them up himself. As Ken said the castings can be a little rough and need cleaning up.
Thank's for your comments. I'm buying the heads for a local shop called M&M Heads. He buys the bare castings and sets them up himself. As Ken said the castings can be a little rough and need cleaning up.
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,445
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
Re: S/R Torquer Heads (drives61)
Instead of ever shimming the top of the spring. Because you want the least weight possible to help with valve float and spring longivity. Your two other options are like Crane keepers which are made in three levels and the better choice is just get chromemoly retainers in the height you need.
I have learned that you buy bigger springs like 155# and set them at a taller installed height. That brings the pounds down to what ever you want. Say 120# and valve float or spring fatigue becomes a thing of the past. With plenty of lift for way into the .500+ lifts. So you can change cams and not even have to think about boarder line springs and if they are going to compress to much.
Throw all those heavy valve rotators out and the splash caps also. Springs need oil to cool
I have learned that you buy bigger springs like 155# and set them at a taller installed height. That brings the pounds down to what ever you want. Say 120# and valve float or spring fatigue becomes a thing of the past. With plenty of lift for way into the .500+ lifts. So you can change cams and not even have to think about boarder line springs and if they are going to compress to much.
Throw all those heavy valve rotators out and the splash caps also. Springs need oil to cool
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 3,399
Likes: 278
From: Olmsted Falls, Ohio
Re: S/R Torquer Heads (drives61)
drives61 - I tried that, but the inner diameter of the shims will not fit over the retainer.
gkull - I agree....not needed....."Throw all those heavy valve rotators out and the splash caps also. Springs need oil to cool"
[Modified by KenSny, 12:47 PM 9/12/2001]
gkull - I agree....not needed....."Throw all those heavy valve rotators out and the splash caps also. Springs need oil to cool"
[Modified by KenSny, 12:47 PM 9/12/2001]
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 15,036
Likes: 79
From: central FL, near the beach.
Re: S/R Torquer Heads (Steve Grodin)
i read in Vizards book that iron valve guide wear is very rapid IF used with stiff springs. 10k-20k might wear them out. OK with me as i drive<1000mi per year.
