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Old Sep 2, 2006 | 03:08 PM
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Default welding control arm

i am rebuilding my front suspension and i noticed that my lower right control arm is cracked where the ball joint sits. can this be welded or should i buy another one? the crack is pretty bad, about 2 in. long around the outer edge and another crack from the outer edge to the hole for the ball joint.
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Old Sep 2, 2006 | 03:11 PM
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I would replace it with a good used one. It could be welded but the heat generated by the weld could possibly weaken it. I wouldn't take the chance.
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Old Sep 2, 2006 | 03:25 PM
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You can fix it if you can weld (that means get proper penetration) if not sure, get a new arm.
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Old Sep 2, 2006 | 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
You can fix it if you can weld (that means get proper penetration) if not sure, get a new arm.

Anybody can weld but theres a huge difference in welding and bieng a Weldor....It takes alot of experience to get proper penetration and strenght among many other things

$155 from Dr Rebuild (call first, some prices are out dated)
I wouldnt chance something that important to safety.... spend the $$$

http://docrebuild.com/dr-r-web/SUSP63A.PDF

Last edited by Bob Onit; Sep 2, 2006 at 05:50 PM.
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Old Sep 2, 2006 | 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Bob Onit

Anybody can weld but theres a huge difference in welding and bieng a Weldor....It takes alot of experience to get proper penetration and strenght among many other things

Very true, and I have met a lot of both. Note: A grinder will be your friend. Make sure it's buddies are a cutting sheel and a flap wheel. You'll want to make sure you grind down on both the upper and lower surfaces, creating what will look like two axe blades touching tip to tip. Then lay a bead down in the valley. Clear out any slag and clean it up with a flap wheel. Lay a bead aross the bottom, and clean it up again. Let it cool in between passes. Then do the top again, and then the bottom again. Do this until the valley is filled. Clean up by grinding the weld flat, and apply some paint to keep rust from getting to the party.

Personally I would replace it. It's easy to take off and finding one would be that hard.
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Old Sep 2, 2006 | 07:08 PM
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Weld itm the heat won't hurt it as long as you don't cook it. The parts are stamped steel, pretty soft.
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Old Sep 2, 2006 | 07:10 PM
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Where is the crack? At the front or rear of the ball jount bore?
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Old Sep 2, 2006 | 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Durango_boy
Where is the crack? At the front or rear of the ball jount bore?
it along the front outer edge . i will see if i can get a used one next week, at last resort i will weld my old one at work. i really don't want to spend $150 for a new one. i've been driving around with a cracked one for 4 years so its not like i'll be in any danger if my welds don't hold up and it cracks again .then it will be time for a new one.
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Old Sep 2, 2006 | 10:28 PM
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Originally Posted by chris75stingray
it along the front outer edge . i will see if i can get a used one next week, at last resort i will weld my old one at work. i really don't want to spend $150 for a new one. i've been driving around with a cracked one for 4 years so its not like i'll be in any danger if my welds don't hold up and it cracks again .then it will be time for a new one.

You say weld it at work, will you be doing it or someone who welds, where you work?
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Old Sep 2, 2006 | 11:39 PM
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Contemporary Corvette has used ones listed on their website for $75.
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Old Sep 3, 2006 | 10:58 AM
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Check the parts wanted section, and post a thread stating you need one, and which one. I'd be willing to bet someone has a donor Vette sitting around with one to sell.
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Old Sep 3, 2006 | 11:07 AM
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Sounds like its time for a "while I'm at it" list. Like upgrade to forged Aluminum A arms, composite front leaf or maybe coil overs, steeroids or jeep steering box......you get the picture.

Seriously though, the part should be weldable. Warpage from heat may be an issue, but with new ball joints, tie rod ends and a proper alignment everything shoud be ok. And no waiting for mail order parts.
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Old Sep 3, 2006 | 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by 71rdster
Sounds like its time for a "while I'm at it" list. Like upgrade to forged Aluminum A arms, composite front leaf or maybe coil overs, steeroids or jeep steering box......you get the picture.

Seriously though, the part should be weldable. Warpage from heat may be an issue, but with new ball joints, tie rod ends and a proper alignment everything shoud be ok. And no waiting for mail order parts.

And like was said earlier...don't turn it into butter. That metal is very easy to overheat.
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Old Sep 3, 2006 | 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by 71rdster
Seriously though, the part should be weldable.
All I can add is that I would not risk risk my life for the price of $155
This is the front suspension were talking about here.
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Old Sep 3, 2006 | 04:05 PM
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Chris, check out this auction. Good used arm. It'll save you some money and you won't have to weld.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CORVE...spagenameZWDVW
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Old Sep 3, 2006 | 04:15 PM
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where would one get forged alu arms?
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Old Sep 3, 2006 | 04:18 PM
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Old Sep 3, 2006 | 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
where would one get forged alu arms?
from the forged aluminum arm store...where else??
...redvetracr
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Old Sep 3, 2006 | 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
where would one get forged alu arms?

I got mine at Harbor Freight.
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Old Sep 3, 2006 | 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Durango_boy
I got mine at Harbor Freight.
why doesn`t that suprise me??????
...redvetracr
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