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Kalway, yes the drop in coil is what I was refereing to, and the drop in chip for the dist. The new coil is rated at 50kv same as yours is, I couldn't find a spec on the stock unit in mine.
I'm not sure what a projection set up is, but you can run a roller cam with the computer. God bless, Sensei
1) yes, projection is fuel injection
2) you can't run a roller cam with the early CCC. the valve train is too noisy so the computer interprets it as detonation and retards your timing. later computers factor that noise frequency in so they don't have the same trouble
Kalway, yes the drop in coil is what I was refereing to, and the drop in chip for the dist. The new coil is rated at 50kv same as yours is, I couldn't find a spec on the stock unit in mine.
Ah, yeah that's the non-ugly distributor that's pretty much just like an HEI.
Here's the one I have that I got for $85 on ebay. It works like a champ.
It looks to me that the distributor was replaced but the cap seems right. There is not a Vac line to it so I suspect I am not getting any advance and it does seem a little sluggish. As I said earlier - the trans seems to be controlled ok, the wires are there for the carb - which means I need to replace the distributor with the correct HEI and then try to hook up the computer. If all else fails I can go back to the way it is. I just need to figure out where to spend the money - I have not priced replacement distributors other than at Eckler's and CCentral.
It looks to me that the distributor was replaced but the cap seems right. There is not a Vac line to it so I suspect I am not getting any advance and it does seem a little sluggish. As I said earlier - the trans seems to be controlled ok, the wires are there for the carb - which means I need to replace the distributor with the correct HEI and then try to hook up the computer. If all else fails I can go back to the way it is. I just need to figure out where to spend the money - I have not priced replacement distributors other than at Eckler's and CCentral.
From one of the other posts - i saw the Ultimate HEI Upgrade Kit. It may be the way to go?
Well converting to a non-computerized setup really wouldn't cost all that much. The distributor I just linked to would cost you ~$60 now on ebay shipped and then you could grab a rebuildable 4MV q-jet for like $20 and be running rather well. Put out a few more bucks and get the B&M TCC lockup thingy and you're good to go.
I think CD is speaking about fuel injection. If you alter any part of the stock engine, cam, rear end, etc., how can the stock prom work correctly with the new setup? Who can program a new prom for an altered setup?
These old computers really only monitor the O2 sensor to adjust the A/F mixture for 14.7:1 during normal driving, and will allow whatever the carb will flow at WOT. The timing has a standard preset curve that adds a maximum of 26 degrees (if my memory serves me right) to the initial timing, retarding when detonation is sensed. With 8-10 degrees initial timing instead of the stock 6, you are pretty well set. The Hypertech chip (about $120) is an inexpensive way to get a little more agressive timing curve, but you really don't need it. Jet performance will burn a custom chip for around $400, but that's alot of money that I again think is not needed. I have new heads, cam, exhaust, etc, etc and mine runs like a scalded dog with stock computer (Hyperchip), distributor (w/MSD box) and carb (with a few mods). God bless, Sensei
P.S. I know you can't run a noisy timing sets with the computer, but that is the first I have heard of the roller cam causing a problem (I'm sure you know what you are talking about). I run a flat tappet cam with roller rockers with no problems.
P.S. I know you can't run a noisy timing sets with the computer, but that is the first I have heard of the roller cam causing a problem (I'm sure you know what you are talking about). I run a flat tappet cam with roller rockers with no problems.
maybe i'm wrong. that's what i've been told by people i respect.
[QUOTE=a1sensei] I have new heads, cam, exhaust, etc, etc and mine runs like a scalded dog with stock computer (Hyperchip), distributor (w/MSD box) and carb (with a few mods). God bless, Sensei
That's interesting, I wasn't aware that would work.
All the confuser does is make the primary jets bigger and smaller depending on what the O2 sensor says. It's not fuel injection so it doesn't care wtf is inside the engine.
1) yes, projection is fuel injection
2) you can't run a roller cam with the early CCC. the valve train is too noisy so the computer interprets it as detonation and retards your timing. later computers factor that noise frequency in so they don't have the same trouble
my 82 has a computer ,i changed to a 87 knock sensor .i think the knock sensor is what tells the computer what it hears .jmo
Did u say it shifts smoothly through all 4 gears? is it an automatic?? I didnt know they had a stock 4 speed automatic in 81, because im looking into getting a 4 speed auto to replace my 3 speed. Also i kept my CCC system and removed the smog pump like the others on here. Its the way to go.
My 81 auto has three gears, but the auto 82s had four and I don't know of a reason that tranny would not fit. I could be wrong of course.
Again, I could be wrong, but I always thought a torque converter was set to change your gears at about the red line when you floored the engine. I have always thought that with pedal to the medal, the torque converter kept you from over winding the engine. I also thought that when you ran a hotter engine, you wanted to change to a higher rev torque converter to delay the shift and to utilized your new maximum power curve. Am I wrong about that?
On the other subject, my Accel HEI distributor has a vacuum line to my Holley carb sitting on my Holly intake. It never ran right until I changed the distributor out to match the new carb.
The 4 speed auto trans is a bit longer than the 3 speed, you need a different crossmember, and a shorter driveshaft to get it in there.
The torque converter is like the clutch for the automatics, it doesn't shift the gears, it just lets the transmission and engine move at different rpms. The gear shifting is controlled by fluid pressure, the govenor, and the vacuum modulator.
The torque converter is what lets you stop while in gear and not stall the engine.
Did u say it shifts smoothly through all 4 gears? is it an automatic?? I didnt know they had a stock 4 speed automatic in 81, because im looking into getting a 4 speed auto to replace my 3 speed. Also i kept my CCC system and removed the smog pump like the others on here. Its the way to go.
The Trans in my 1981 is the standard 350 3 speed. The fourth shift is the torque concerting locking up. The only thing I have noticed is that it shifts very fast into second off the line – unless I really push it. I plan to get under the car to see if the previous owner may have installed the BM torque lockup in order to by pass the computer. I have a feeling he did not.
I am a little nervous about getting the correct HEI dist and hooking up the computer. The more I dig – the more creative wiring I am finding. I may just go with a vacuum advance HEI dist and then think about replacing the carb. Bubba replaced the correct dist with an older one without vac advance which is affecting performance. I would like to have the computer working as I plan to drive the car a lot – not as a daily driver though.
If the wiring is really that bubba'd then I'd suggest just getting a 4MV quadrajet and rebuilding it. It really isn't too hard to rebuild them and you can get all the parts you need for a 4MV (pre-75). It'll bolt right up and have all of the vacuum ports and everything that your car needs. After you get a vacuum advance HEI and a non-computer controlled q-jet you can get the B&M TCC lock-up gizmo and you'll be able to run as good as new. You don't really NEED the TCC lock-up, as it'll still function just like a TH350 and it won't hurt anything, just make sure it doesn't overheat.
Thanks Sixshooter and Sensei. It sounds like the best thing to do is to try to get the CCC controlling the carb again. The trans shifts through the 4 gears and locks up like it should and the car runs great other than the idle. I have the build manuals and a Chilton’s so I will trace the wires and see what I can find. I will keep you posted.
The first thing I would have suggested is picking up the manual and assembly manual. Those will be a tremendous help.
I have an unmolested 81 with everything hooked up correctly. Shot me a PM if you have any problems and I would be happy to help. Even with the manuals it can get confusing with all the wires and hoses in there.
The computer does not have that many wires in the first place, and if you disregard the AIR, EGR etc., there isn't that much left at all. Get an assembly manual (you need one anyway!) and you should be fine. Don't be afraid to pick up the correct distributor. You can get it at NAPA for a reasonable price, and they work well. Don't give up, from the pictures I saw, I would bet your wiring is not that messed up, and may actually be okay. Bubba may have listened to one of the "experts" who like to spout off the myth that you can't get performance with the computer (IT'S A LIE!). He may have just grabbed an old HEI, threw it in and disconnected the rest thinking it would go faster! God bless, Sensei
Honestly I agree with sensei with the fact that you can go fast with the confuser. I don't see any reason you couldn't. I ditched my computer for the simple fact that I didn't want to dive in to such as strange system and figure it out. I went with the tried and true M4M and vacuum HEI and didn't really care about the TCC because I don't go on the freeway all that much. With all of the money I've spent on my non-computer controlled system I coulda paid someone to fix my original system in place. However, I like the old system and it works very well for me, and my check engine lights stays the F off now.
Basically your options are ditch it and get a new carb, distributor and maybe a TCC lock-up device or keep the computer and get it to work and be happy. The system works fine WHEN IT WORKS.