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I was going to go with Polyurethane A-Frame bushings, but I hear even new technology materials squeak. Is that correct? And is it worth worrying about. Are there ‘real good’ rubber bushings nowadays?
I will Autocross from time to time, would prefer the handling - but what about the squeaks? Any brand suggestions? I have a set I bought in 1983 ish and never installed - should I just chunk them? As for rubber - is there quality variances?
Turtle - do the steel ones squeak. AND is there that much of a reduction in the softness of the ride when going poly or steel? Would anyone notice in a 69 BB?
Last edited by kaiserbud; Sep 8, 2006 at 01:22 PM.
I've had Energy Suspension poly bushings in mine for a while, and as long as you use the lube they provide, you should have no problems. If they get loaded with dirt (think off-road), they squeak like crazy, but that's not an issue with mine I do like the handling compared to rubber, but they do transmit a bit more road feel to the car. Mine has the F-41 suspension, so it rides pretty stiff anyway.
The "squeaking" stories are from people who either can't read the instructions and don't properly grease the poly bushings or are stuck in the 1980s, when they did squeak. Go poly. I had them in my old Talon, switched them over to the new one when I wrecked the first Talon, and they were fine when the engine died in that car. 6-8 years and two cars, they never squeaked and still looked new.
I've had poly sway bar bushings in my 77 for years, and they've never squeaked either.
Turtle - do the steel ones squeak. AND is there that much of a reduction in the softness of the ride when going poly or steel? Would anyone notice in a 69 BB?
They don't squeak. Can't tell any difference in ride. Never have to worry about them wearing out.
Good input.... I like the idea of them not wearing out. Any suggestions on brand name - or can I just hit the Hi Perf shop this weekend and grab a set?
I ordered a set of Energy Suspension red poly bushings from Jegs yesterday.
Question though.... I had my A-arms powder coated. Should the area where the bushings fit be without paint? If so - I would assume you do not want to sand in there - you would want to use a solvent to remove the powder coating ???
Turtle - if these do not prove satisfactory, then I will go steel
Last edited by kaiserbud; Sep 20, 2006 at 11:37 PM.
I'd do all of them at the same time. It turns into a pretty big job, you need to pull the a-arms. Might as well change the ball joints while doing it if they haven't been changed for a while.
Is the bushing replacement considered a big job?
Any idea how many hours to replace them?
I have one that is visibly warn on the upper pass side.
Do the springs need to be removed ect: ?
Thanks
Bushing replacement can be either easy or hard depending on what you want to do. First, you do have to remove the A-arms. Getting the old rubber bushings out can be done a few ways. Some people drill around the rubber and push it out. Some prefer to torch the rubber out. I used the torch method and it's fun but messy.
If you need to replace the shells you have to remove them and get the new ones pressed in. If you use rubber bushings I think you need to replace the shells also. If you re-use the old shells you can clean them and put in poly bushings.
While you are at it you might consider replacing the ball joints and re-packing the wheel bearings.
I replaced mine monday with rubber, original style. $68.00 with lifetime warranty from Advance auto parts. It took me about 3 hours total. Remember to mark your shims and put back in the same place. Alignment should be ok, but better to get it realigned. And yes, check your ball joints, good time if they are not real tight. I did not use a spring compessor, just lowered the a arm with a jack and then pop them back in with a litte help from the 3 ft pry bar. Paul