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I also have a lowered car with a full VBP suspension kit, so thats why I am wondering about ground clearance. When I get it, I will install it and post some pics.
The body is lowered. The suspension makes no difference on the clearance on this bar. The clearance between the pumpkin and the ground don't change when you drop the car. The only thing that would affect it is tire diameter. I haven't had any issues with ground clearance. Anything my sidepipes will clear this will clear.
Mark, I know that you have one of the most powerful Vette street machines on the forum and I have heard your sound byte years ago. So you have solved problems way above mine.
correct me if I'm wrong. This Vette traction bar just limits or holds the alignment of the front of the differential? I years ago just installed the top poly snubber so I can only have limited differential movement. i also years ago induced cracks in the rear differential cover and had to upgrade to the HD unit. with my poly snubber or even if you went with solid aluminum disk, would you still require a traction bar?
Yes it limits the differential more securely than without a lift bar. It certainly does not act as a true lift or traction bar due to the IRS. I installed a HD cover when I installed the SSM lift bar. I also run a solid aluminum disk, figuring it can't hurt and should help.
It does hang low -- it is the lowest point underneath my car. Before I installed the offset control arms and 7" wheels, I ran a 225/60-15 tire on the factory 6" ralley wheels. I bottomed out several times. First time it happened on a big, rolling dip in the highway, resulting in a shuddering crash that caught my attention! I've yet to bottom out w/ the taller 255/60-15 tires.
Here is the only picture I have at hand. Unfortunately its a dead-on rear shot and doesn't show how low it hangs.
To your question about eliminating wheel hop -- I think it can be done w/o a lift/drag bar, but is easier accomplished with one. Don't forget the Tom's Differentials crossmember weld-in stiffening pieces.
The body is lowered. The suspension makes no difference on the clearance on this bar. The clearance between the pumpkin and the ground don't change when you drop the car. The only thing that would affect it is tire diameter. I haven't had any issues with ground clearance. Anything my sidepipes will clear this will clear.
Huh? The only way for the body only to be lowered is to alter the amount of body mount shims and/or spacers. My car is lowered on the suspension; shorter coils in front, and longer bolts in the rear, so that will definately make the lift bar hang quite low under the car.
Huh? The only way for the body only to be lowered is to alter the amount of body mount shims and/or spacers. My car is lowered on the suspension; shorter coils in front, and longer bolts in the rear, so that will definately make the lift bar hang quite low under the car.
Huh? The only way for the body only to be lowered is to alter the amount of body mount shims and/or spacers. My car is lowered on the suspension; shorter coils in front, and longer bolts in the rear, so that will definately make the lift bar hang quite low under the car.
Yup
Originally Posted by 63MAKO
Right, brain fart!
Lately I think its more of a coincidence that my brain is acutally functioning.
Those SSM traction bars on are ebay for aprox $120 (type in "traction bar" and go to the bottom in the ebay stores)
I'll wait to see how low my car sits and how bad the wheel hop is then decide. Until then, any feedback & pics would help aid in the decision process. Anyone install the newest draglink setup? how's it working & pics?
I looked into the Southside bar when I was racing the '64 and kept breaking parts.
In reality, all the SSM bar does is stabilize the pumpkin because the rubber bushing let it move about which has an effect on tire grip and traction. It's not anything like a set of "slapper bars" used on leaf spring vehicles that resist spring wind-up. It does cost ground clearance and it is in the way of those exhaust systems that cross over in front of the rear axle.
There is a better way that is lighter, has no ground clearance issues, and improves all handling, is cheaper, and it's marketed by Guldstrand Motorsports and it's called a rear end locating kit.
They're on my '64 and really firm up the rear. When I initially installed the set, I found that on a launch, the U-joint would rub the body pan. I added two fender washers (under the small donut) and the problem was solved.
There is a better way that is lighter, has no ground clearance issues, and improves all handling, is cheaper, and it's marketed by Guldstrand Motorsports and it's called a rear end locating kit.
They're on my '64 and really firm up the rear. When I initially installed the set, I found that on a launch, the U-joint would rub the body pan. I added two fender washers (under the small donut) and the problem was solved.
I have the VB&P version of that kit, but only with the two bigger discs that hold the diff crossmember in place. Where does the smaller disc go? Is it a replacemtnt for the diff bushing?
I have got to get a pic up here of the cool aluminum crossmember bushings that I lucked into with my dual-mount rear spring. Instead of just reinforcing it, they completely replace the rubber bushing with a stepped aluminum disc top and bottom.
I have the VB&P version of that kit, but only with the two bigger discs that hold the diff crossmember in place. Where does the smaller disc go? Is it a replacemtnt for the diff bushing?
I have got to get a pic up here of the cool aluminum crossmember bushings that I lucked into with my dual-mount rear spring. Instead of just reinforcing it, they completely replace the rubber bushing with a stepped aluminum disc top and bottom.
I have got to get a pic up here of the cool aluminum crossmember bushings that I lucked into with my dual-mount rear spring. Instead of just reinforcing it, they completely replace the rubber bushing with a stepped aluminum disc top and bottom.
I've got the VBP performance plus package which came with the two larger disks...not the stepped aluminum you speak of. I'd love to see pics.
7t2vette....nice undercarrage. very nice
I just got the traction bar from same seller as you for $39
If it works great, if it doesn't I can sell it or mod it. Good buy, thanks.
I've got the VBP performance plus package which came with the two larger disks...not the stepped aluminum you speak of. I'd love to see pics.
7t2vette....nice undercarrage. very nice
I just got the traction bar from same seller as you for $39
If it works great, if it doesn't I can sell it or mod it. Good buy, thanks.
Thanks!
That Ebay seller has yet another one for sale for $39!!! They must have a boatload of them sitting around!!!
I'm interested in the discs as the bar is extremely heavy!
-P
You can get the whole kit or just the pinion disk. http://www.guldstrand.com/locate.htm
Depending what kit Batman is speaking of, I might just get the pinion disk since I already have the two large disks from VB&P.
You can get the whole kit or just the pinion disk. http://www.guldstrand.com/locate.htm
Depending what kit Batman is speaking of, I might just get the pinion disk since I already have the two large disks from VB&P.
But did you notice that it says it is for 80-82 vettes? I wonder if it will work on my car as well.
But did you notice that it says it is for 80-82 vettes? I wonder if it will work on my car as well.
Good point...must not work for them to state 80-82 only.
What the difference is b/w that setup and a 69 or 79 I'm not sure except for the batwing style but I thought the tongue mount (pinion) were similar throughout the years. Anyone know?
Good point...must not work for them to state 80-82 only.
What the difference is b/w that setup and a 69 or 79 I'm not sure except for the batwing style but I thought the tongue mount (pinion) were similar throughout the years. Anyone know?
I thought the front diff mount was the same through the years, but maybe I am wrong. Anyone know for sure?
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