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I have seen a parking brake set up to use a small caliper onto the rear disc. I can't remember the details ... might want to consult a few books on brake systems. It should not be too hard.
I believe SSBC makes a small mechanical caliper for 1.25 disks.
I realize this is not without its problems but, I have never understood why you couldn't make a "line lock" type rear caliper actuator.
I had something like that on an old Lemans/GTO tow car, on the launch ramp I would lock the front calipers, as the rear was in the soup....well they would hold for maybe 30 minits, as the mfgr stated...pressure drops internally would allow calipers to release....maybe by design for all I know...so as a parking brake, that would not do....
Norval was working on more of an "emergency" brake as I recall, specifically because the hydraulic calipers will lose pressure over time. For a real parking brake, you need a mechanical caliper.
I have a AUDI who has this system in the back. Hydraulic food brake pistons which is mechanically actuated by the emergency/hand brake.
Also had this system installed to my OPEL Manta B , but was not original.
I guess that it only works on 1 piston floating calipers anyway, so probably not available for our C3 unless they offer floating calipers with this.
Just in case that the anchor plate is worn out, would this mean a removal of the spindle/bearings for replacement or can it be welded in situe somehow ?
Norval was working on more of an "emergency" brake as I recall, specifically because the hydraulic calipers will lose pressure over time. For a real parking brake, you need a mechanical caliper.Ken
Early one morn about 35 yrs back ... a milk delivery truck driver stopped his truck at top of hill ... threw it in neutral ... as he exited he pulled up the park brake handle at driver kick panel ... just as he reached for the rear door, he realized the door was leaving him ... he sprinted & jumped back in front & stabbed brakes ... NONE. He tried pulling it into gear but no luck w/ non-synchro trans. He rode it nearly to intersection & then bailed.
I was violently shaken from slumber by what I thought was an explosion ... looked out & saw a man (driver) flailing about in middle of street and a huge plume of what I mistook for LNG. The truck had cleared the intersection at bottom of hill ... then shattered the fire hydrant in front of my house (water plume) ... then it crashed through 2 parked cars ... destroying both, one a prized Lotus Cortina ... then came to rest into 2 houses. Major $ damage to 2 houses & vintage wrought-iron fencing. Fortunately, no bodily injuries beyond driver's minor scrapes & bruises. It took all day, several of the largest wreckers around and block & tackle to extract the mechanical carnage ... & lotsa milk. The dairy's trasportation manager was on site quickly; remained throughout. Mgr was nearly in tears a time or two; this was dairy's third accident that week. Dairy (not insurance) compensated all of us quite well with no hassle.
How did this happen?: The truck's park brake did operate on the truck drum brakes' hydraulic wheel cylinders ... the left rear wheel hydraulic cylinder actually CRACKED ... immediate & total loss of line pressure ... stabbing brake pedal simply pumped fluid out the cracked cylinder. Now, for those of you who've never looked at a truck's hydraulic wheel cylinder, it's a rather heavy cast iron piece ... NOT known for cracking ... but it did. BTW, many new passenger vehicles still have hydraulic wheel cylinders at rear.
I had something like that on an old Lemans/GTO tow car, on the launch ramp I would lock the front calipers, as the rear was in the soup....well they would hold for maybe 30 minits, as the mfgr stated...pressure drops internally would allow calipers to release....maybe by design for all I know...so as a parking brake, that would not do....
I don't know why a hydraulic system (properly designed) could not hold pressure indefinitely. If you parked your car on a hill and held pressure on the brake with your foot, you should be able to hold pressure indefinitely. As I said, I'm sure there are minor technical challenges but no "show stopper" issues.
Holding the brakes with your foot on the pedal acts like a accumulator.
The foot pressure compensates every small amount of leakage.
Hydraulic pressure is lost instantly when you loose a very small amount of it and no type of accumulator compensates for it.
I think the technical issue of integrating a hydraulic line lock type of emergency/parking brake is too complicated.
The mechanical system pushing one of the caliper pistons is the way to go, as other manufacturers are doing.
This would require a floating caliper type as only one piston can be pushed by the mechanical parking brake input.
This differential mounted brake sytem is a joke, isn't it ?
If it's actuated during driving, this small bolts will be ripped apart.
I also don't think it would pass any of our European car check ups.
I have seen a parking brake set up to use a small caliper onto the rear disc. I can't remember the details ... might want to consult a few books on brake systems. It should not be too hard.
carbster
I posted on this last winter. I added a second hydraulic caliper to my rear setup and have an actual working emergency brake that can actually stop the car at speed.
It consists of a lightwieght seperate caliper with 2 live pistons and a small master cylinder located on the stock emergency brake handle.
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It works great, functions as an actual emergency brake but as for a parking brake I wouldn't trust it. Hydraulic pressure could leak out.
Marck I was playing with it yesterday while out for a drive and found it works very well. It actually stops the car at speed and effortlessly holds the car on a steep hill with little pressure from the handle.
While it is NO parking brake it certainly is a functional emergency brake.
Last edited by norvalwilhelm; Sep 16, 2006 at 07:43 AM.