Need help! Electrical Problem Phase 2
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 151
Likes: 1
From: Newark CA
Need help! Electrical Problem Phase 2
Hi,
I could use some help with phase 2 od diagnosing an electrical problem. It started with the alarm going off for no apparent reason, turn into an ignition problem, and added to the mess is the interior electric problems. I guess the best way to to start to find the problem is to mention what isn't working properly.
The dash lights don't work,
Most of the gauges in the center consule of the dash dont function.
The electric driver seat doesn't work.
The tach is not working.
The horn doesn't work, which I believe was related to the original problem.
I think the best way to find the problem, is to link what could be a common denominator for all/most/some of the items, ad take it from there.
I have check all of the fuses in the block under the dash. Is there another fuse or relay somewhere that could be blown?
Any suggestions are welcomed.
Thanks!
I could use some help with phase 2 od diagnosing an electrical problem. It started with the alarm going off for no apparent reason, turn into an ignition problem, and added to the mess is the interior electric problems. I guess the best way to to start to find the problem is to mention what isn't working properly.
The dash lights don't work,
Most of the gauges in the center consule of the dash dont function.
The electric driver seat doesn't work.
The tach is not working.
The horn doesn't work, which I believe was related to the original problem.
I think the best way to find the problem, is to link what could be a common denominator for all/most/some of the items, ad take it from there.
I have check all of the fuses in the block under the dash. Is there another fuse or relay somewhere that could be blown?
Any suggestions are welcomed.
Thanks!
Race Director
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 10,643
Likes: 8
From: Foxfield CO 1970 Convertible
Hmmm....those things seem all over the place electrically. However, they all take power. Maybe some of the major leads and grounds are corroded. Check the positive and ground connections to the fuse block. Check the main grounds on the frame and the engine.
After that, I'd start with just one item, like the horn. Run wiring straight to the battery and make sure it works. Then run just a ground wire and let the positive come from the normal wiring. If it still works the ground was bad. If it doesn't, then the power source is bad. Check the power at the corresponding fuse in the fuse block using a VOM. Do that for each item.
Not that I'm an expert, but that's how I'd approach it...
After that, I'd start with just one item, like the horn. Run wiring straight to the battery and make sure it works. Then run just a ground wire and let the positive come from the normal wiring. If it still works the ground was bad. If it doesn't, then the power source is bad. Check the power at the corresponding fuse in the fuse block using a VOM. Do that for each item.
Not that I'm an expert, but that's how I'd approach it...
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
You know, this may not be what you want to hear, but Painless has a solution for you. I've seen a guy spend years looking for an electrical problem, heck I've come close to that and a lot of other members here have experiences some sort of similar situation.
Calling Painless wiring, they can MAKE you a brand new custom harness with everything you need to wire that car, all the way back to the plate lamp. It'll cost some coin but sometimes the big spend will get you on the road a lot faster.
The issue is you have so may electrical problems it's hard to sort out just one, and most of them probably overlap somewhere.
Calling Painless wiring, they can MAKE you a brand new custom harness with everything you need to wire that car, all the way back to the plate lamp. It'll cost some coin but sometimes the big spend will get you on the road a lot faster.
The issue is you have so may electrical problems it's hard to sort out just one, and most of them probably overlap somewhere.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,668
Likes: 119
From: St. Charles Mo
CI 5 & 8 Veteran
Originally Posted by Durango_boy
You know, this may not be what you want to hear, but Painless has a solution for you. I've seen a guy spend years looking for an electrical problem, heck I've come close to that and a lot of other members here have experiences some sort of similar situation.
Calling Painless wiring, they can MAKE you a brand new custom harness with everything you need to wire that car, all the way back to the plate lamp. It'll cost some coin but sometimes the big spend will get you on the road a lot faster.
The issue is you have so may electrical problems it's hard to sort out just one, and most of them probably overlap somewhere.
Calling Painless wiring, they can MAKE you a brand new custom harness with everything you need to wire that car, all the way back to the plate lamp. It'll cost some coin but sometimes the big spend will get you on the road a lot faster.
The issue is you have so may electrical problems it's hard to sort out just one, and most of them probably overlap somewhere.
sorta like killing flies with hand grenades untill you know more about the source of the problem
Bullshark
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Originally Posted by Bullshark
Durango, you sure wouldn't here a guy from UMR come up with that solution! sorta like killing flies with hand grenades untill you know more about the source of the problem
Bullshark
sorta like killing flies with hand grenades untill you know more about the source of the problem Bullshark
I know it may seem like overkill, but I'm on that same road right now. I have a few wiring issues that seem impossible to track down. A lot doesn't seem to work right.
I'm tempted to pull the whole harness out of the car so I can test wires on the bench. And then the thought hits me...whiel I have it out, why not buy a BRAND NEW CUSTOM harness that has everything I need plus all the things I want.
They can add things like fan control, higher output alt wiring, aux light provisions, spare IGN, 12V and ground wires for various things you want to add like a carb with an electric choke. The list can go on. The only reason I would do something that drastic is if I had the money, and my electrical problems out weighed the time it would take to track them all down and solve them.
Trying to fix a 30 year old wiring harness can be a pain in the butt if several people before you were working against you bubba'izing it.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 151
Likes: 1
From: Newark CA
I am thinking that it is some sort of major fuse that got blown somehow, with the exception of the horn/alarm, which I feel is a seperate issue. The other things all went down at the same time while I was looking for a starting problem, which turned out to be a bad connection on the ground side of the HEI connector.
The other problems happened while trying to diagnose where the short might be, the radio antanea connector fell accross the center cluster connector, and sparked once before I could grab the wire. After that episode I have not be able to get the items listed to work.
The other problems happened while trying to diagnose where the short might be, the radio antanea connector fell accross the center cluster connector, and sparked once before I could grab the wire. After that episode I have not be able to get the items listed to work.
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Verdad Gallardo
Pro
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 692
Likes: 1
From: Peabody Ma.
I think UHvette is on the right track there is two fusible links down at the starter, they come up the fire wall by the fan then go into connector, also check that connector mine burned up right there and had to connect two wires out side of the connector. If it is the links you can repair it with fusible link wire form the parts store
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,740
Likes: 3
From: Aurora Ontario
Originally Posted by garycr14
Hi,
I could use some help with phase 2 od diagnosing an electrical problem. It started with the alarm going off for no apparent reason, turn into an ignition problem, and added to the mess is the interior electric problems. I guess the best way to to start to find the problem is to mention what isn't working properly.
The dash lights don't work, the dimmer coil in the headlight switch maybe broken...when turning the **** does it dim anything?
Most of the gauges in the center consule of the dash dont function. Depends on which guages. The copper board at the rear of the center cluster may have breaks. The connector may not be in right.
The electric driver seat doesn't work. Don't know. did you check the fuse. Probe at the switch with a test light. Are you getting power?
The tach is not working. Could be many things. Is the tach wire plugged in at the distributor...not sure if yours is an HEI distributor.
The horn doesn't work, which I believe was related to the original problem. Don't know.
I think the best way to find the problem, is to link what could be a common denominator for all/most/some of the items, ad take it from there.
I have check all of the fuses in the block under the dash. Is there another fuse or relay somewhere that could be blown?
Any suggestions are welcomed.
Thanks!
I could use some help with phase 2 od diagnosing an electrical problem. It started with the alarm going off for no apparent reason, turn into an ignition problem, and added to the mess is the interior electric problems. I guess the best way to to start to find the problem is to mention what isn't working properly.
The dash lights don't work, the dimmer coil in the headlight switch maybe broken...when turning the **** does it dim anything?
Most of the gauges in the center consule of the dash dont function. Depends on which guages. The copper board at the rear of the center cluster may have breaks. The connector may not be in right.
The electric driver seat doesn't work. Don't know. did you check the fuse. Probe at the switch with a test light. Are you getting power?
The tach is not working. Could be many things. Is the tach wire plugged in at the distributor...not sure if yours is an HEI distributor.
The horn doesn't work, which I believe was related to the original problem. Don't know.
I think the best way to find the problem, is to link what could be a common denominator for all/most/some of the items, ad take it from there.
I have check all of the fuses in the block under the dash. Is there another fuse or relay somewhere that could be blown?
Any suggestions are welcomed.
Thanks!
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 151
Likes: 1
From: Newark CA
Originally Posted by uhvette
Often the wire leads to the starter solenoid become fraid or damaged, you may have a short to ground here, does the car have any problems starting right up?
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Any luck under the car with the starter wires? I know a short down there will cause some issues, but not all of what's on your list. It'll take a long time, but eash and every individual thing needs to be checked for 12V and ground.
A book would help you figure out how many of your problems are on what circuits and which are related to each other. It could be one or two main circuits that are causing all the issues.
A book would help you figure out how many of your problems are on what circuits and which are related to each other. It could be one or two main circuits that are causing all the issues.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 151
Likes: 1
From: Newark CA
Originally Posted by Durango_boy
Any luck under the car with the starter wires? I know a short down there will cause some issues, but not all of what's on your list. It'll take a long time, but eash and every individual thing needs to be checked for 12V and ground.
A book would help you figure out how many of your problems are on what circuits and which are related to each other. It could be one or two main circuits that are causing all the issues.
A book would help you figure out how many of your problems are on what circuits and which are related to each other. It could be one or two main circuits that are causing all the issues.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 2,441
Likes: 0
If a '81 is similar to a '72 the major harnesses are divided up between the engine compartment and the under dash harness. The horn issue is obviously in the engine compartment, the rest are interior. I'm betting the horn problem is seperate trouble and the interior problems are common to one circuit or ground connection.
Z-man's post about using seperate battery and ground wires to test an electrical device is a good one.
Z-man's post about using seperate battery and ground wires to test an electrical device is a good one.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Originally Posted by shafrs3
If a '81 is similar to a '72 the major harnesses are divided up between the engine compartment and the under dash harness. The horn issue is obviously in the engine compartment, the rest are interior. I'm betting the horn problem is seperate trouble and the interior problems are common to one circuit or ground connection.
Z-man's post about using seperate battery and ground wires to test an electrical device is a good one.
Z-man's post about using seperate battery and ground wires to test an electrical device is a good one.
What if the horn is hooked up through teh factory alarm and the alarm is malfunctioning. The alarm would be the dash harness, putting the horn problem inside with everything else. Could this be true since those factory alarms spider all over the place and screw with most aspects of that car?
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
Likes: 53
From: Dayton, Ohio
All those items you listed rely on the "instrument panel ground" its located on the left pillar post above courtesy light.If that isnt the problem.I would take one item on the list and see what it takes to make it work.First give it a temporary ground if that doesnt work give it 12 volts.Hopefully all items are connected by a common problem.Your horn switch in your column is grounded through the alarm system module which is also grounded by the inst.panel ground.I think maybe if this inst.panel grd. lost ground it might set off the horn or trip the alarm system.Lack of grounds can make things act weird.Good Luck
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 2,441
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by Durango_boy
What if the horn is hooked up through teh factory alarm and the alarm is malfunctioning. The alarm would be the dash harness, putting the horn problem inside with everything else. Could this be true since those factory alarms spider all over the place and screw with most aspects of that car?
Last edited by shafrs3; Sep 19, 2006 at 01:08 PM.