For a '79-
It is very difficult to get the new bezel (w/ radio and gauges installed) installed into the new dash pad. The bezel will not go as far back into the dash opening as I need it to but I cannot figure out what is keeping it from going further back. I "think" that the problem is the center A/C duct where it meets the back of the A/C vents. They don't look like they are lining up very well and this may be keeping me from getting the whole bezel to go in farther. I have trimmed the sides of the bezel opening in the new dash so I don't think that is the problem.
Anyone else have this experience?

 

You're probably right. The AC center duct has to slip fit over the back of the center outlet in the bezel.

 

Rob,
Lining everything up in the dash is very time consuming. Take your time and you'll get it.
Mike

 

Even with the A/C Duct lined up with the vents it is still hard to push the bezel deep enough to get the bolt holes lined up. How did they ever get this in?

 

Your radio may be too deep. Or the wires may be bundling up. Take the side panels off the consol so you can see what you are doing.

Jim

 

79, i understand your frustration.

A few months ago I had to pull te center bezel out to swap out radios. It went back with no problem.
About a week or so ago I had to pull it out again to fix a minor mistake in some wiring and when I went to reinstall the center bezel this time it gave me nothing but MAJOR trouble. It looked like it was going all the way in but the holes weren't even close to lining up.
I finally got it in but it's not right and not aligning up correctly with the shifter plate so I still need to pull it again and figure out way it's not going in correctly.
Interior parts can be a serious PITA! I'd rather pull the motor again and reinstall it than have to pull the center bezel and shifter plate again!

 

I have got the side console panels off and the glove box out so that I can see what obstructions are there. When the A/C Center console duct makes contact with the back of the A/C vents on the bezel, the bezel is still quite some distance from its alignment holes in the dash. The dash pad is new and the bezel is new so perhaps they aren't the same fit as the originals. Nothing else appears to be keeping it in the way except for brute force - which I really hate to have to do.

 

ahhh, new repro dash pad and new repro bezel. Well, that explains it! Now you will understand the phrase "repro s*cks".

with reprodiction parts the fit is almost always going to be questionable and now you are trying to fit together TWO repro parts.

 

I've change console, bezel shift boot. I've found that installing the bezel without the radio and removing the 4 screws that hold the console in place makes it a little easier. You might want to remove the sets so you can lay down and get your head up under the dash. With a fan blowing in the cage thats the bomb. Also check and see if your defroster vent slipped down from the dash. Mine had a broken tab on the drivers side. I stuffed some installation between it and the top vents for the bezel. It's in and holding. Make sure the plug and the printed circuit board is in good. First time no temp gage. I bought a new circuit board Then I got temp gage but no fuel gage. Now everything is working. Connect the battery and CHECK before putting everything back together like I did. Ball is in your court now. Good luck

 

Yep- Al Knoch dash and Wilcox gauge bezel. Perhaps they don't get along well.
I was able to get it in tonite but it is not a cake job though.
Thanks Rob

 

Here is a trick to installing the dash pad with either a new or an old center dash bezel.

With the dash pad installed, (no holes in the repro) and the shift console plate installed where it needs to be! Without he any radio, or small gauges in the car gently fit the dash bezel center in to the dash! Once you have the dash bezel in the car where it is resting flush to the dash pad and fits to the front of the shift console plate… You can either mark the dash pad or drill the holes for the dash bezel or you can do a little trick and mark it quick with you drilling holes.

If you have an ice pick handy and a small torch, you can heat up the end of the ice pick and gently push it in to the dash pad. This will create a very small pilot hole and make the install of the dash center bezel exact when you put it back in. If you have replaced the center shift console plate, it’s a good idea to make sure it’s in the correct position before you do this. There is a little variance for movement on this plate with the side screws. But the plate should match up perfect with the dash bezel before you put any holes in it.

Getting the small gauges in the back is not a problem, but fitting the factory radio in to the dash with the bezel and trying to make the perfect fit is next to impossible with the radio installed… The dash bezel should fit snug and flush to the dash pad when the final install is done too! If you goof and drill the hole in the wrong place there is a epoxy glue called plastic fusion and/or plastic weld (depending you who you like as a manufacturer) that will fill the hole and be as strong as new when you go back together.


Willcox