I recently discovered that a wire was pulled from a harnass under the dash - apparently it is part of the key-in buzzer circuit. When I re-attach the wire the buzzer works but doesn't shut off (hence why one of the previous owners pulled it). Can someone give me a little insight as to what is wrong - is it the ignition/key switch itself?

 

Probably the switch in the column.
http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?p...dept%5Fid=1177

 

Probably a PITA to replace - I am guessing?

 

sorta if you have never been in a column-but if you have a GM manual you should be ok---but the noise is annoying and you have to decide if its worth the effort

 

Here is a link to a key buzzer diagnosis.
http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/wp-co...rDiagnosis.doc

These two papers will take you step by step in removing and replacing the key buzzer switch. You can replace the switch with the column still in the car. You didn't mention if you had a T&T or a standard (non-adjustable) steering column. The procedures are similar by not exactly the same.

Standard (non-adjustable) Column
http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/wp-co...&R1-05JA06.doc
http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/wp-co...InstrPage1.doc

T&T Column
http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/wp-co...&R1-30MY06.doc
http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/wp-co...ge1-12FE06.doc

Jim

 

Great stuff - thanks.

BTW it is a T/T column

 

WHAT YEAR?

Read Jim Shea's papers on this. I started as a complete idiot with regard to the tilt/tele on my 72. Thanks to Jim and his papers, I was able to successfully remove the steering wheel and disassemble the steering column all the way down to the plastic universal joint (sorry, Jim, I don't know the correct name for that) and tighten up my loose column. I then replaced the plastic switch in the ignition cylinder. Great stuff and we all owe Jim a big Thank You for his expertise. This isn't that difficult a job and you can rent the steering wheel puller from most major chains (rent, as in free!) as well as the compressor needed to pull the spring.

I would suggest downloading his papers, appropriate for your year and then expanding the blown-up diagrams. I used them extensively while working on my car.

Fwiw, depending on your year, finding a working key buzzer switch may be like finding the Holy Grail. As I recall, they changed designs and the older one, like that in my 72, was very rare. I paid a premium to get one. These are nothing more than a plastic holder, keeping two copper contacts from touching. Under the right conditions, the contacts are allowed to touch, creating the circuit that turns on the buzzer. I seem to recall that my 72 GM Service Manual reprint offered a diagnostic on troubleshooting the system. Of course, it might have been Jim Shea's paper too. One of the troubleshooting techniques was to pull the wire out of the harness and see what happens. Bubba's way of fixing things on your car?

Gary

 

There are two possible causes of the circuit always being closed within the steering column:
1). The plastic tab that is part of the ignition lock cylinder might have crud on it that keeps it extended (and therefore activating the key buzzer switch). The tap should extend out and actuate the key buzzer switch when you insert your ignition key. When you turn the ignition switch to the RUN position (or when you withdraw your key) it should easily slide back into the lock cylinder.

2). Or the actual key buzzer switch can be broken. (I would suspect that the plastic housing around the switch could be brittle - just a guess.)

Possible Actions
1). You can try this without taking anything apart. You might try spraying something like silicone electrical spray into the lock cylinder to try and loosen the plastic tab. A good lubricant for the lock cylinder is a drop of synthetic motor oil on the tip of your key. Just run it in and out a few times and wipe the key. If this doesn't work and your analysis says that the problem is inside the steering column, then go on to #2.

2). The switch is very simple. But you have to remove your steering wheel, hub, and locking plate. Then you have to pull the turn signal switch out of the column far enough so that you have access to the column housing behind the turn signal switch where the key buzzer switch is located. Links to complete instructions were included above.

Hopefully, you might be able to salvage the switch that is in your column. Replacement switches for the T&T column are very hard to find.

One last tip. There is a small leaf spring that holds the key buzzer switch in place. It should come out with the switch. DON'T LET IT DROP DOWN INTO YOUR STEERING COLUMN as you are removing the switch! It can be very difficult to "fish" out.

Jim

 

I have the same issue. My buzzer module works, but intermittently goes off with no key in, so this stuff should help me isolate the problem! Looks like this winter's project.

 

what color wire is disconected? my buzzer is on all the time now, i thought it was bad horn relay but wasnt i want to disconnect wire for now have more important things to do ,car show sunday. thanks

 

Black w/red stripe