grease or oil?
Here is a part of a thread I found.
"In the 1975 shop manual, a special manual steering box lube #1052084 is specified with the caution to not use it on earlier model years and not to use EP chassis lube. It so happens that this part # is discontinued and so is its replacement part #. The GM parts screen now specifies to use an EP chassis lube and "order direct from vendor" but gives no vendor or lube spec.
I used Pennzoil 707L chassis lube for my rebuild as recommended at a Bloomington clinic by an instructor named Harvey Jacobs who, as I recall, has a repair shop around Philadelphia."
There were quite a few guys using Mobil 1 synthetic grease.
after extended usage, and especially because it's so close to the exhaust manifold and the associated heat after a while the grease can break down and seperate and that may be the "oil" you see leaking out.
it would be best to empty the steering box and refill it with fresh grease.
The original grease was part # 1052084 and it came in a 14.5oz tube but has been discontinued as previusly stated. It was replaced by EP Chassic grease part # 12377985.
The original instructions on the '084 grease tube stated to use the entire contents in the steering gear so you can consider 14.5oz to be the steering gear lubricant capacity.
This post will help you understand more about the box.
Good luck,
Gary
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1345411
in mine but have not figured out how to get old lube out. You take two
bolts out to fill but can you take the third bolt and take the top cover
out. Jayr
Here is an original late model C3 box with the side nut removed.

Here is how I finish them with the Mobil 1 leaving room for expansion of the grease.

You can see here one of the setting I make but also look at the location of the worm nut and cover holes. with the box centered or on end you're going to hit part of the nut with grease and it will not pack evenly around. The best way to lube the box is to remove it and the cover. But then you're going to get into adjusting the lash so be sure if you do you know what you're doing or you'll create more problems.
lash. Mine has some play in it when steering is centered. I replaced the power steering valve and could feel it in the box when the pitman arm was disconnected for the steering valve. I assumed there
was wear where the gears line up in nutural position. JAY
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Ryan I'll PM you information, I have blueprinted a lot forum guys boxes the past year or two.Feel free to ask anyone abut them for first hand reference.
Jay, if you adjust the lash you have to be sure the on center adjustment in not over 14 in/lbs or you'll wear out the very expensive gears. I don't set them at 14 unless it's a road race car and they want the tightest feel. Street cars are good at 11-12 in/lbs providing the preload and other adjustments are good. In the picture above you can see I set the lash gap to .0015", most stock boxes and a few "rebuilt" boxes I was sent were in the .007-.010 range. Combine this with the typical kit bushing sideplay and incorrect lash settings and the vette boxes get a bad rep as sloppy junk. Correct these areas and they work great. I was driving my car the other day at 70 mph - one finger, on center and the cars responds to the wheel with no lost motion.
Gary
Last edited by gtr1999; Sep 24, 2006 at 09:27 PM.
Just wanted to post a pic from my current rebuild
to show what happens when Bubba ignores all the
warning signs and then sells the car to you...
It wasnt pretty...
There was nothing left that could lube the gears!
All gone or dried out!
Needless to say, the play that I had - due to the
excessive wear of all the internal components - gave
a new dimension to car driving...
It will take a complete new set of wormgear, sector,
all the bushings, bearings and some fresh grease

to get back on the road again.

/ MrBeam
Gary













