Can you replace the MC studs on PB Booster?
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Instructor
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From: Formerly DFW Missing Texas Now in NJ
Can you replace the MC studs on PB Booster?
The two studs on my brand new Power Brake Booster are
stripped.
(Long and upsetting story on how they got that way.)
Can these studs be removed and replaced or am I in for another brand new booster? If so, how?
Thanks in advance.
Whiplash
stripped.
(Long and upsetting story on how they got that way.)
Can these studs be removed and replaced or am I in for another brand new booster? If so, how?
Thanks in advance.
Whiplash
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Originally Posted by Whiplash71
The two studs on my brand new Power Brake Booster are
stripped.
(Long and upsetting story on how they got that way.)
Can these studs be removed and replaced or am I in for another brand new booster? If so, how?
Thanks in advance.
Whiplash
stripped.
(Long and upsetting story on how they got that way.)
Can these studs be removed and replaced or am I in for another brand new booster? If so, how?
Thanks in advance.
Whiplash
I only know this because I tried removing mine. They are hot-pressed in...which means they are a combo of pressed in like wheel studs and welded to the booster housing.
Now, see if the parts store will exchange it for you. Give them a sob story or something. If not, it's gonna be hard to fab up a way to change them. The booster has to come apart, and while it's fairly easy to do with a good vise...you'd have to drill out the old studs, and weld some new ones in sicne the metal is so thin new ones wouldn't press right in.
Try to swap the booster...or...upgrade to a Hydrobooster where you CAN take out the studs and push them through the firewall from the inside to make it easier to install the Hydro.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Formerly DFW Missing Texas Now in NJ
Originally Posted by Durango_boy
I only know this because I tried removing mine. They are hot-pressed in...which means they are a combo of pressed in like wheel studs and welded to the booster housing.
Now, see if the parts store will exchange it for you. Give them a sob story or something. If not, it's gonna be hard to fab up a way to change them. The booster has to come apart, and while it's fairly easy to do with a good vise...you'd have to drill out the old studs, and weld some new ones in sicne the metal is so thin new ones wouldn't press right in.
Try to swap the booster...or...upgrade to a Hydrobooster where you CAN take out the studs and push them through the firewall from the inside to make it easier to install the Hydro.
Now, see if the parts store will exchange it for you. Give them a sob story or something. If not, it's gonna be hard to fab up a way to change them. The booster has to come apart, and while it's fairly easy to do with a good vise...you'd have to drill out the old studs, and weld some new ones in sicne the metal is so thin new ones wouldn't press right in.
Try to swap the booster...or...upgrade to a Hydrobooster where you CAN take out the studs and push them through the firewall from the inside to make it easier to install the Hydro.
I'm not familiar with a Hydrobooster. Can you explain?
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
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From: Columbia Missouri
Originally Posted by Whiplash71
That's what I was afraid of. Just to clarify the studs I need to replace are the 2 that connect the Master Cylinder to the booster, not the 4 through the firewall.
I'm not familiar with a Hydrobooster. Can you explain?
I'm not familiar with a Hydrobooster. Can you explain?
Yeah, I missed that, but the two masterstuds are gonna be just as hard to replace. As far as Hydroboost, do a search. It's a hydraulic power booster run off of the power steering pump instead of engine vacuum. It will give you a VERY noticable increase in brakeing effivciency. The unit can be found on most mid-'90's HD Chevy and GMC trucks. I got mine out of a salvage yard for $35.
Do a search for Hydroboost and you will likely learn everything there is to know. It's a large project, but an upgrade everyone should know about and consider before buying new vacuum boosters and going through all that trouble. Just look into it a little. I'm happy with mine so far, and I haven't even driven it since the change.
Thread Starter
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From: Formerly DFW Missing Texas Now in NJ
Originally Posted by kevinator80
I would try to chase the threads with a die first.
Any ideas?
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Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Columbia Missouri
Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
If you take the booster apart you can grind/cut/drill the studs out, whatever you want, then get some new ones or some allen bolts, bolt up tje MC to the booster half and weld on the bolts, not much to it
True, it'd be easier for someone with fabricating skills or a welder. He may not have access to a grinder or torch or welder. Paying someone to do it may cost as much as a new booster.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
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From: Columbia Missouri
When I bought my first Vette, I had almost no tools and no knowledge of this car. I learned everything I know now from just doing it all myself. Problem is, with no tools, and limited money, I had to outsource all the work to people that could do it. I spent a lot of money on my first two Vettes that way before I started buying my own tools and teaching me how to use them. Back then, I would have had to pay someone seeing as none of my friends had what I needed either.
And we could be wrong, and maybe he does have a grinder and a welder, and he'll get them pulled and replaced this evening. I have no idea. I just know they are not very expensive, not to mention if the parts store will take it as a warranty return and swap it for free.
And we could be wrong, and maybe he does have a grinder and a welder, and he'll get them pulled and replaced this evening. I have no idea. I just know they are not very expensive, not to mention if the parts store will take it as a warranty return and swap it for free.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
It shouldn't. It's just like using the die in the die handle to repair the threads, but it has the benefit of being only one-sided and repositionable. Good for tight spaces.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Formerly DFW Missing Texas Now in NJ
Originally Posted by I'm Batman
It shouldn't. It's just like using the die in the die handle to repair the threads, but it has the benefit of being only one-sided and repositionable. Good for tight spaces.
If this doesn't work how do you take the Booster apart to get at the studs? Do you just smack it with a hammer counter clockwise until the tabs are free? Grinding isn't a problem. Welding is but I can figure something out if I can get the studs out.
Thanks,
Whiplash
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
When you take it apart...be VERY careful about how things come out. There are several springs under a load, and lots of layers of diaphrams and baffles. Keep them in the exact orientation and direction as you pulled them off...if you screw one up you'll never figure it out.
