Should I stroke it???
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 373
Likes: 1
From: Bayonne NJ
Should I stroke it???
Ok so as many of you might already know by my recent threads, my fresh rebuild is smoking from the #8 cylinder.. The reason is that I didn't take my time and i cut corners.. I figured that since the block only had about 70k on it i would just have the cylinders honed instead of bored.. Now im wondering if i should just turn this into a 383 project. I have to rip the block apart and have it bored and such anyway.. My top end should be able to perform nice with my bottom stroked. Up top i have the edelbrock performer RPM manifold with matching cam and a edelbrock carb. Dart iron eagle 180 heads 64cc and hooker headers. My guess is that i may as well throw the extra cash in the bottom to get it done right this time and make it a 383.. Anyone have any thoughts? Also how much does it usually cost to have the block done.. Line bore, bored, ect...
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,269
Likes: 54
From: Orlando Florida
St. Jude Donor '05
Two local shops quoted me $600-$700 for the machining..... I decided to spend $800 at Summit/Jegs and get a brand new block (1 piece RMS, hydr roller cam) $680 + freight shipping 
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 7,739
Likes: 630
From: Unreconstructed, South Carolina
Originally Posted by BanGnGearS
Ok so as many of you might already know by my recent threads, my fresh rebuild is smoking from the #8 cylinder.. The reason is that I didn't take my time and i cut corners.. I figured that since the block only had about 70k on it i would just have the cylinders honed instead of bored.. Now im wondering if i should just turn this into a 383 project. I have to rip the block apart and have it bored and such anyway.. My top end should be able to perform nice with my bottom stroked. Up top i have the edelbrock performer RPM manifold with matching cam and a edelbrock carb. Dart iron eagle 180 heads 64cc and hooker headers. My guess is that i may as well throw the extra cash in the bottom to get it done right this time and make it a 383.. Anyone have any thoughts? Also how much does it usually cost to have the block done.. Line bore, bored, ect...
Warning: If you deck the block ... most shops will mill away the blocks VIN/ID at front stamp pad. If you have a numbers matching block ... ask shop questions about this before you jump.
Last edited by jackson; Sep 27, 2006 at 06:08 PM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 373
Likes: 1
From: Bayonne NJ
Originally Posted by jackson
You have good stuff to start with ... Do a 383 w/ good used block. If crank & cam been running true all these years & miles & no spun bearings ... it's a near certainty neither NEED line bore/line hone ... experienced eye can read the old bearings & know. Also, you probably don't NEED to deck unless you NEED to set quench. Local top notch shop (Dennis Jordan/Jordan Performance @ Conway SC) gets $65 to bake & blast block ... $75 to deck both banks ... $16/hole for bore w/ torque plate hone ... about $40 to install cam bearings & freeze plugs (+ parts). You might look at dish/reverse dome pistons for that 383 w/ 64cc iron chambers. If you do the assembly & buy parts wisely ... you should finish the 383 short block for under $1500.
Warning: If you deck the block ... most shops will mill away the blocks VIN/ID at front stamp pad. If you have a numbers matching block ... ask shop questions about this before you jump.
Warning: If you deck the block ... most shops will mill away the blocks VIN/ID at front stamp pad. If you have a numbers matching block ... ask shop questions about this before you jump.
