Body Mount Removal
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Body Mount Removal
While trying to remove the #4 body mounts on both sides of the body, I heard the dreadful sound of the bolts spinning inside the frame. How do I access these to replace them? I searched the forums and noted how I could reach them from inside the car..no luck. And others spoke of replacing the "bird cage"..what is this? Thanks in advance..my frame off project has been delayed somewhat.
Eric
Eric
Pro
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 627
Likes: 1
From: Naperville IL
if you have a coupe, pull the rear carpet back and you can get to the nuts and (now loose) cages way in the back to hopefully get a wrench on them. If they were as bad as mine, you're much better off just grinding off the head and pulling them through from the inside.
If you have a convertible the job is a lot harder because of the deck hinge being in the way, but I'm sure someone else will be able to tell you a lot more about that.
and the birdcage is the steel frame around the cabin that includes the windshield frame, rocker channels, and roof pillars. can be a major project to repair and even worse to replace, but not impossibe. if you search through the archives you can find plenty of pictures of it that will make it a lot more clear.
If you have a convertible the job is a lot harder because of the deck hinge being in the way, but I'm sure someone else will be able to tell you a lot more about that.
and the birdcage is the steel frame around the cabin that includes the windshield frame, rocker channels, and roof pillars. can be a major project to repair and even worse to replace, but not impossibe. if you search through the archives you can find plenty of pictures of it that will make it a lot more clear.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,725
Likes: 0
From: Hanover Maryland
chris73cpe is right
When the body mount bolt are rust seized, especially the #4 mount due to it constant exposure to the road grime from the rear tires), you will not get it off! Use a disc grinder and cut the head of the bolt off being careful not to destroy your #4 mounting cage.
Mine were the same situation when I started my frame-off. I powder coated my metal cages to prevent further rusting and used anti-seize on ALL of the bolts.
GOOD LUCK!
When the body mount bolt are rust seized, especially the #4 mount due to it constant exposure to the road grime from the rear tires), you will not get it off! Use a disc grinder and cut the head of the bolt off being careful not to destroy your #4 mounting cage.
Mine were the same situation when I started my frame-off. I powder coated my metal cages to prevent further rusting and used anti-seize on ALL of the bolts.
GOOD LUCK!
Pro
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 627
Likes: 1
From: Naperville IL
I didn't even put the cages back in, I just welded a square nut to an 1/8" piece of steel cut to fit in the well, then painted the whole thing. I wish I took some pictures of it, but I know it won't rust at all anytime soon. Definitely use stainless bolts when you put it back on too. The extra few bucks now will save you tons of grief down the road.
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 141
Likes: 0
From: Brampton, Ontario
I just finished taking the #4 Bolts out of my '78, and they were seized pretty bad. I had to grind the head off the bolts from the wheel well and pull the bolts thru the top. As already stated, not a lot of room inside the mounting cage to grind, so be careful and take your time. Wear a mask and have fun
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
In reference to accessing the bolts from inside on a 71' coupe, I have pulled out the carpet as it was being replaced anyway. I have checked the back corners of the car and cannot find the access point to the bolts. Is there another panel I need to pull out? I tried to attach pictures, but was unsuccessful.
Eric
Eric
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,562
Likes: 2
From: Spring Texas
Originally Posted by chris73cpe
I didn't even put the cages back in, I just welded a square nut to an 1/8" piece of steel cut to fit in the well, then painted the whole thing. I wish I took some pictures of it, but I know it won't rust at all anytime soon. Definitely use stainless bolts when you put it back on too. The extra few bucks now will save you tons of grief down the road.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
Likes: 10
From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
Originally Posted by edm4864
In reference to accessing the bolts from inside on a 71' coupe, I have pulled out the carpet as it was being replaced anyway. I have checked the back corners of the car and cannot find the access point to the bolts. Is there another panel I need to pull out? I tried to attach pictures, but was unsuccessful.
Eric
Eric
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,269
Likes: 54
From: Orlando Florida
St. Jude Donor '05
Hope this helps:
I installed the bolts for the rear body mounts upside down with the nut at the bottom, made it a little easier to install...
Then nut is behind the rear speakers:
I installed the bolts for the rear body mounts upside down with the nut at the bottom, made it a little easier to install...
Then nut is behind the rear speakers:
Safety Car
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,732
Likes: 708
From: Shelton, Connecticut
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
The nut floats for a reason.
Originally Posted by chris73cpe
I didn't even put the cages back in, I just welded a square nut to an 1/8" piece of steel cut to fit in the well, then painted the whole thing. I wish I took some pictures of it, but I know it won't rust at all anytime soon. Definitely use stainless bolts when you put it back on too. The extra few bucks now will save you tons of grief down the road.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 2,008
Likes: 38
From: Space Coast Gator Territory
Originally Posted by edm4864
In reference to accessing the bolts from inside on a 71' coupe, I have pulled out the carpet as it was being replaced anyway. I have checked the back corners of the car and cannot find the access point to the bolts. Is there another panel I need to pull out? I tried to attach pictures, but was unsuccessful.
Eric
Eric
[IMG]
[/IMG]This is what the finished #4 nut looks like inside my finished 69 well.
[IMG]
[/IMG][IMG]
[/IMG]
Last edited by Red 69; Sep 29, 2006 at 01:15 PM.
Pro
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 627
Likes: 1
From: Naperville IL
Originally Posted by jaki30
The nut(s) float so there is some adjustment for the body. The fore/aft and left/right centering of the body on the frame is why the float is needed. I wound up having to loosen all the mounts on my 72 to get the bumper brackets front and rear to align properly. There isn't a lot of movement but enough to mess things up.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 6,350
Likes: 423
From: Seattle Area WA
Need bolt hole location for #4 mount plate
Does anyone have access to their #4 body mount bolt to give me a good dimension from the frame to the center of the bolt. I had to weld on a new top plate to the #4 mount due to rust damage. I believe the hole diameter for the rubber mount is 1.20" but I need the distance from the frame to locate it.
Thanks.
Thanks.
