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started stripping the paint from my 75 project.....with a razor blade. the paint came right off, but....some spots gouged the body below the primer. what now?? i heard of a product called "icing" which i beleive amounts to a thick spreadable coat of primer? i am concerned that this may shrink over time {a few months or even weeks maybe} after the paintwork is finalized..i don't want the body to look like the moons surface with a shiny topcoat. please help. experience welcome!!!
Icing is one brand of polyester glazing putty. That would work fine if you think the gouge is too deep for fill primer to hide. This putty won't shrink like the old lacquer putty since it takes a hardener.
If you use a glazing putty- be sure that you use a good sealer over the primer. Some of these puttys contain peroxide which can dull the paint if you dont seal it.
Run a search - it's a pretty standard way to strip a Vette.
Not saying it isn't done, but when I painted mine, I talked with at least 6 or 8 painters, and none suggested a razor blade. A DA, or sanding blocks, is what I was told the pros would use. I did mine by hand because of all the curves in the C3, the power sanders were giving me problems. It took a little time, but I never had any gouges to repair.
Not saying it isn't done, but when I painted mine, I talked with at least 6 or 8 painters, and none suggested a razor blade. A DA, or sanding blocks, is what I was told the pros would use. I did mine by hand because of all the curves in the C3, the power sanders were giving me problems. It took a little time, but I never had any gouges to repair.
Even with razor blades, you will still most likely do a lot of sanding. Razor blades are very handy in peeling away multiple layers of paint. And it does it very quickly. If you are pulling out all the stops for a decent paint job, then filling a few nicks is hardly worth mentioning.
Not saying it isn't done, but when I painted mine, I talked with at least 6 or 8 painters, and none suggested a razor blade. A DA, or sanding blocks, is what I was told the pros would use. I did mine by hand because of all the curves in the C3, the power sanders were giving me problems. It took a little time, but I never had any gouges to repair.
Were they familiar with fiberglas stripping, or just metal? A lot of guys here recommend the razor blade technique.
Yes, Corvette guys, but then again I was not going through multiple layers of paint, just the stock paint.
Razor blades sometimes dont work too well on stock paint because it adheres so well. Nothing beats'em when trying to remove those cheaper single stage one-day paint jobs.
I stripped mine with a razor blade and it worked very well with little repair work to do afterwards. I had four layers of paint to strip off mine and they came right up nice and easy.
All this sounds very intersting. I'm not too far away from stripping the paint off of my c3 and was wondering exactly how you would strip the paint with a razor blade. I assume the blades are the commercial type used for removing bits of gasket and using the standard holder.
When I bought my '80, it was several shades of red. I removed all the trim, lights, rocker panels, etc. and took it to a media blasting specialist.
He taped all the seams and edges and blasted all the paint off down to the filler only. I just had to sand the remaining paint off where he had taped it. The whole job took a day for prep, a day for blasting, a day for the remainder, and less than $400 for everything.
Is there a reason you didn't have it media blasted?
I had a bad experience with media blasting. I knew the outfit/owner had experience media blasting corvettes, but my guess is that the job to blast mine was handed off to someone with inexperience. The surface texture looked like a sponge, and they blasted holes throught several areas.. I know they can do a great job media blasting, but I'd make sure that someone experienced does the work. It cost me many additional hours, and money to correct the damage. I wish I would have just sanded the paint off of my 73'.
one has to think that the previous painter of those two vettes had to skip a step, what with the paint not sticking to the primer and all . . . or was that the factory paint?