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68 427 B.B I have had issues from day one with when the engine heats up starter will barley crank, had starter checked out by expect said starter was O.K . I even went and purchased a new starter and still have the same results. Now after engine has off for a 1/2 to 1 hour both of these starters crank great. I even have a heat shield over starter. I have original exhaust NO headers. Some one mention that these new High torque mini starters are the answer. Does anyone have any idieas??
If you want as good starter I can sell you one. But you would probably send it back as no good. I could never understand why a car owner {or Vette, we sell for all makes} at the first instant of a no start, blames the starter. To add on to that, it`s the first thing and the hardest to remove crawling around under a car. Have a AVR check {charging and cranking system} before anything. Your starter is a off-set cast iron nose starter that most auto parts joints will not even know about. They are offered both as a HD and LD. Really, first check the charging system as you may be running off battery and not recharging the system as you drive.
PS, BB Chevy starters are no more problems than SB`s, they all get super hot.
Last edited by Ironcross; Oct 6, 2006 at 01:34 AM.
I had the same problem. I got a new mini-starter and it starts every time. Even when driven hard on a hot day. Since I was already down there, I re-used the heat wrap blanket around it. Kinda overkill, but why not? I already had it, so...been happy ever since.
I have experienced this issue since day one as well......BUT - although I feel he mini starter will fix it, there is something to be said about not blaming the starter. Case in point, check all grounds, wires, connections.
I will be using a high torque mini starter (that I got from a small block motor from a friend). I assume it will fit my BB and am eager to see how it works out. It will be a few months tho ! I do not even know what brand it is.
I'm wondering, did these cars have this prblem when they were new? I thought I solved my problem with it a few years back with a new battery. At the time the buy that tested it said it would only take a surface charge. Not a full deep charge. This year it seems to have come back again. I never know when it will hit. Had several places to go today over the span of 4 hours. I had to put the charger on it first to start it. The first stop I made was for about 1/2 hr. It stated up easy. The second stop after driving 7 miles was for about 20 minutes. It stated right up. The 3rd stop was about 6 mile drive. I was there for about 2 hrs. The car started fine. Drove another 6 miles to my last stop. I was there all of 4 minutes. Tried to start the car and it had nothing left to crank with. Just a slight grunt. The amp gauge showed a charge rate of about 10 amps once I got it going again and by the time I got home, another 6 miles, it looked to be down about 5 amps charge. Normally it will sit at "0". Since the car sets for about 7 or 8 months a year, maybe I need to consider a battery tender charger for the off season.
I used to have the heatsoak problem all the time. Getting stranded until the starter cools off. Finally my mechanic crudely stiched together a shield out of some kind of cloth-like temerature resistant material from the race shop, and wrapped it completely around the starter. Problem solved. Never happened again. I agree with these guys though about the mini starter. I got one when installing my new crate motor and there is lots more room. Heat should never be a problem.
Age causes resistance in the system. Heat makes it worse. mini-starter is a good band aid as well as a remote relay. I don't have the problem on my Vette but my other car needed the relay. Once I added that, it starts every time. Less than $10 for the relay and add some wire. Old school cheap but effective band-aid from before we had mini starters.
If you change the starter again, I don't think that is long term repair. Start with a new positive wire from the batt compartment to starter, then do the same on the batt ground. Check, clean or replace the motor grounds.You will start with a clean slate, Now get a mechanic that can check your voltage/current draw at the battery and the charging system, mainly the regulator,in a 68 it's adjustable. And start with a fully charged battery, if the batt is say at 12.6 volts, that will start a cold car, but the regulator will never charge above that first voltage it see's......
Assassin - so with the mini, do you still use the wrap?
That has to be true regarding the age of the wires. I would hope that today's wire quality is good, but I ddi not even think about the ground wires at the motor - I bet they have been thru plenty too much heat over the years
Kaiserbud, Since I got the new engine and the mini starter, I didn't use that heatwrap. Before, the old header wraped right around the stock starter. Now there is a huge air space between them. Plus my new headers (Dynomax) are ceramic coated. They say that coating keeps the heat way down. I havent had any probs.
You guys make a good point about the cables. I think mine are original. I should check them out. I have weird grounding issues; noise in the stereo, electric fuel pump whines up and down when you use the turn signal etc. The alternator is new. I suppose those cables could be the problem.
I just went out to the garage to pull our 70 out and give it a wash job. Got a couple of cranks out of it in 42 degree weather and then nothing. I put the charger on it and took it outside & washed it. Put the charger on again to get it in the agrage. Pulled the battery & checked the voltage-11 VDC. I also noticed the gauge didn't seem to be above zero for charge while it was running. It was slightly below. I'm starting to wonder if maybe the alternator isn't up to par anymore. To add to it, Now I see the tach needle jumping around. I can think of a lot of other things I'd rather be doing than spending all my spare time working on this car.