Can I just remove the two hoses to the heater core and plug the two holes... one in the intake manifold, the other in the water pump?

I dont use the heater, my cabin gets hot, and I'd like to remove clutter from my engine bay. Figure I'll remove the heater core and sell it, then make a blank plate to cover up the gaping hole in the firewall once all is removed.

Thanks

 

You certainly can remove it. Many auto-makers used to sell the heater/core as an option.
rotgirl

 

I was thinking of this too, only I wanted to keep the option of the heater core so if I'm driving in humid weather or cold weather I can still crank the heat on the defrost and de-fog the windows to a degree...

Other than that, you think plugging the holes at the engine is okay? Should a bypass be run from one to the other to respect flow?

 

In the event that the hose barb/connections are seized or might possibly crack the pump fitting or intake fitting when pressure is applied, YES, just run a bypass hose. By far, this is the simplest fix and you lose no time or effort in the event you want to reconnect the core at some later point in time.
rotgirl

 

Do you own a big German dog?

 

DOWN BOY!!!



Thanks rotgirl. I wont need a bypass, I just wanted to verify that one isnt required for flow purposes, and that plugging the holes wont cause any issues.

 

I removed all the A/C, heater/blower/evap from my 80 and made a block plate. Just put a plug in the water pump and intake.

 

How does the water circulate in the block when the thermostat is closed?

 

When the hose fittings are installed at the factory, the metal is fresh and corrosion free. They are driven in extremely tight. In the process, they sometimes cross thread. In an aluminum manifold, when you remove an extremely tight or cross-threaded fitting, one or more of the aluminum threads disengages from the manifold and trys to follow the steel fitting out of the bore. When this happens, the diameter of the fitting + aluminum bead is greater than the female thread diameter in the manifold.... and the manifold cracks. Ask me how I know.

I pre-heat the manifold with oxy/acet when I attempt this maneuver.

You have to have a "feel" for how much is too much torque when removing these fittings to insert plugs.

Just a heads up... sometimes they screw right out, sometimes they crack the manifold.

I've had to weld a few.

 

you are creating alot of unnecessary work, unhook your water hoses and cap your heatercore with plastic caps in place.Your heater core is inside the car not external and it is removed internally after removing your duct etc. I think your heater hoses are 5/8" and the other is 3/4" or a similar size.Get the proper size and buy a 5/8"X 3/4" nipple or whatever size it actually is and some clamps and let it loop back to itself. Removing the heater core in a corvette is murder. Your heat problem may be somewhat heater A/C related but your heat problem is under your dash and floorboard for the most part. To fix that you would need to remove your dash and fill every nook and cranny with insulation.Then double insulate your floorboard all the way up to your steering column and also underneath your center console to behind the seat. I used double insulation to my seat area then went single layer from front of seat to back. Totally different car and by far the best investment i made as far as improvement or upgrade. I bought these peoples smallest roll about $37 including shipping as i'll post link below.As i said i cut back to single layer once i got behind my foot area. Probably about $70 total cost once u buy the recommended glue. Anyway that is where your gonna see an improvement in your C3 heat problem. My heater runs on low by default "i guess" because i can't turn it completely off but that doesn't affect anything since i insulated. Here is a link to the product i used. The hardware store type insulation is nothing but coated bubble wrap.I am a consumer no association with the company or person selling this product...

http://www.lobucrod.com/

 

if you decide to insulate don't forget to ermove your carpet first

 

I don't think you need flow from the heater manifold port to the heater water pump port. On air conditioned cars, isn't there a vacuum controlled solenoid that shuts off collant flow to the heater when the air conditioner is on.

 

It will flow with all the other water...

 

That's what I was thinking. When that valve is closed there is no flow anyway, so blocking them off will not affect the motor in any way.

 

Tom454 - Thanks for the heads up... engine is pretty much new, only a couple thousand miles. Shouldnt be a problem, though I do have a good feel for delicate aluminum threads... luckily nothing too expensive to repair/replace.

thrilher - Thanks for the input. I want to remove the hoses all together to clean up my engine compartment a bit. I never use the heat, so I really dont need it. As for the dash... well, my tach cable is broken (with my fat hands, I'll never get back there without removing it), and I need to insulate the firewall SOOOO badly, so I figure it will be one of my many winter projects. My cabin gets VERY hot after even a half hour of driving (and thats with NO top!!!). I want to do the firewall and pull the carpets up AGAIN

My main concern here was wether or not cutting off that loop would cause any issues. From what I'm gathering it shouldnt, and worst case, if it does, I can rig up a loop afterwards.

Thanks for all the input.

 

This is kind of on this subject...does anyone have a link to who may sell the SS braided mesh that you can slide over a standard water hose or fuel line to make it looked like a braided line?

 

Summitracing.com look for dress up kits.

 

Sidepipes are a good for heat mitigation, although I realize not everyone likes the idea.

 

pull your dash and do the insulation upgrade,speedo cable is probably the simplest project on the whole car, it is quick release by pressing a tab, i see vette owners complain that its too easy to unhook it and falsify actual mileage, take my advice on this, don't bother removing your heater core, its not worth the trouble and u will never sell a heater core anyway, go underneath the car and cap the lines to keep the critters out once you remove the hoses.I put a new heater core in mine and left the caps on it for future reference while my dash was out Dash removal after removing steering wheel consist of removing 4 easlily accessed screws,two on each end, and two clips top center near defrost duct.
I personally wouldn't pull my dash for any of it, but if you do there are a number of places to stuff insulation. most of your heat is coming through holes, some i stuck a golf tee in and also around steering column, but most of all the heat off exhaust "especially headers" running under your feet are why your shoes soles get soft. I've been there man and when i finished i called it a 10k upgrade if i decided to sell

 

I love the idea, but hate the burns... plus to top it off, I wanted a tig welding project so I spent months worth of ebay proceeds to purchase
(4) 5' pieces of 2.5" 409 stainless straight pipe,
(4) 180* U bends (just came in yesterday)
(1) 90* bend
I've got plans...

durango - just my opinion, but I hate those hose covers...