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I just picked up an edelbrock performer intake and a Holley Street Avenger 670 cfm carb at the swap meet. I have already changed out the cam (465 lift intake and exhaust, 232 duration at 50 thousandths, and 110 deg. duration). I also have the Pertronix pointless system. I could use some advice on headers for the car once I get some extra cash. Any thoughts on shorties v. long tube? Will probably go with long tube, even though I like the idea of shorties from a clearance stand point. Any recommendations on long tube with a thick flange (to prevent warping and exhaust leaks) and better clearance under the car. Will definitely be ceramic coated though.
As I explained in other threads, I just replaced the stainless steel block hugger headers (a.k.a. shorties) on my '80 (GM 350 HO crate w/ Vortec heads) because they fried 3 sets of spark plug wires (including a set of expensive *high temp*wires), melted the urethane out of my motor mounts, and burned a #4 ground wire to a crisp.
Sure, they didn't cost as much as full length headers, but they ended up costing me a BUNCH.
I installed full length ceramic coated Dynomax headers. The fit is excellent but the finish isn't very nice. If surface appearance is important, I recommend spending the extra $$ on Hookers or some other top end brand.
My Dynomax headers cost $280 at Summit Racing. Their search tool will give you a lot of options for your car. (Sort by price, highest to lowest.)
I've had the Dynomax on for about 3 or 4 years now and they work well, fit pretty good and the finish has held up. If your car is a stick shift you will need to remove the Z-bar for the clutch to install them as it goes between two of the tubes. I had a slight interference with the Z-bar and rear tube but a slight dimpling of the pipe fixed that and it did no damage to the finish. I run stock wires and boots and have had no problem with burning plugs. All in all they are well worth the money.
I have the coated Dynomax long headers and they fit very well in my '80. Easiest to install them from under the car.
In fact, I don't see how you can install them any other way.
I don't have a steering box (replaced with Steeroids R&P), so I don't know how the headers go around that on the driver's side, but I do know that I had to remove the z-bar (clutch cross shaft).