68-74 Door Jam Switches
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 259
Likes: 2
From: Sacramento CA
68-74 Door Jam Switches
Am I the only one having a hell of a time getting these switches to work consistently?
I have replaced the front door jam courtesy light/alarm switches and terminals and have played with getting them just right in the hole and they still only work correctly on occasion. Pulling on them or rotating the button will help make a good contact but they only make good contact about half the time with regular use.
Does anyone have any tricks to get these to make good contact consistently? Is there an alternate switch and terminals that work better?
I have replaced the front door jam courtesy light/alarm switches and terminals and have played with getting them just right in the hole and they still only work correctly on occasion. Pulling on them or rotating the button will help make a good contact but they only make good contact about half the time with regular use.
Does anyone have any tricks to get these to make good contact consistently? Is there an alternate switch and terminals that work better?
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 18,742
Likes: 2,583
When you replaced the switches did you also replace the little copper contacts that attach to the wires? They come in a strip of multiple pieces which you separate, attach the wire, and then insert into the switch.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 5,752
Likes: 4
From: Austin Texas
I bet you are using reproduction switches...crapola. If you don't mind not using the key buzzer feature, you can get the newer style that makes better contact, but they can only be had for 1 or 2 wires, not 3. (I believe the drivers side switch has 3)
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 259
Likes: 2
From: Sacramento CA
Yes, these are repoductions. Driver side does have 3 wires. Since all these wires are looking for ground I'm wondering if two of them couldn't be connected to one terminal...or would that ground through the other device? I'll have to look at the wiring schematic and see if I can do that.
I am using new contact terminals on the wires. I even disassembled the switch and lightly sanded the contact surface and stretched the spring a bit. No improvement.
At this point I'm just looking for something that works and looks correct on the side that shows.
I am using new contact terminals on the wires. I even disassembled the switch and lightly sanded the contact surface and stretched the spring a bit. No improvement.
At this point I'm just looking for something that works and looks correct on the side that shows.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 5,752
Likes: 4
From: Austin Texas
Originally Posted by RPOL68
Yes, these are repoductions. Driver side does have 3 wires. Since all these wires are looking for ground I'm wondering if two of them couldn't be connected to one terminal...or would that ground through the other device? I'll have to look at the wiring schematic and see if I can do that.
I am using new contact terminals on the wires. I even disassembled the switch and lightly sanded the contact surface and stretched the spring a bit. No improvement.
At this point I'm just looking for something that works and looks correct on the side that shows.
I am using new contact terminals on the wires. I even disassembled the switch and lightly sanded the contact surface and stretched the spring a bit. No improvement.
At this point I'm just looking for something that works and looks correct on the side that shows.
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 118
Likes: 0
From: Twin Lake Mi
I've had the same problems with mine. I have a repro switch & new contacts. I think what the trouble is, is that the hole in the plastic that the contact goes into is not tight enough. The hole & the contact have a slight curvature to them. When you match the curve, the contact does not want to stay in far enough to make the ground connection. I ended up rotating the contact 180 degrees so the curvature doesn't match on the plastic & the contact. This made a tighter fit but not by much. Mine has been in that way now for about 2 weeks but I haven't had much occasion to drive it lately because of the weather here. I hope this helps you out.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 259
Likes: 2
From: Sacramento CA
I have found that that barb of the terminal needs to be facing the outside of the plastic ring or it wont catch. The curvature in the plastic and the terminal does look like it should go the other way. I have found that you don't want to push the button in and let it snap back. That's guaranteed to pop the contacts out the back.
I was tempted to try to straighten the barb, insert it, then bend it over the side keeping it from having any chance of pulling out.
Just seems like a weak design coupled with poor repoduction materials. Maybe gold plating the contact area would work...I'm really streching it now.
Guess I'm really looking for a different switch that will work.
I was tempted to try to straighten the barb, insert it, then bend it over the side keeping it from having any chance of pulling out.
Just seems like a weak design coupled with poor repoduction materials. Maybe gold plating the contact area would work...I'm really streching it now.
Guess I'm really looking for a different switch that will work.
Race Director
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 10,674
Likes: 122
From: Millington Illinois
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
Originally Posted by RPOL68
I have found that that barb of the terminal needs to be facing the outside of the plastic ring or it wont catch. The curvature in the plastic and the terminal does look like it should go the other way. I have found that you don't want to push the button in and let it snap back. That's guaranteed to pop the contacts out the back.
I was tempted to try to straighten the barb, insert it, then bend it over the side keeping it from having any chance of pulling out.
Just seems like a weak design coupled with poor repoduction materials. Maybe gold plating the contact area would work...I'm really streching it now. Guess I'm really looking for a different switch that will work.
I was tempted to try to straighten the barb, insert it, then bend it over the side keeping it from having any chance of pulling out.
Just seems like a weak design coupled with poor repoduction materials. Maybe gold plating the contact area would work...I'm really streching it now.
Guess I'm really looking for a different switch that will work.Corvette Stories
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 5,943
Likes: 3
From: Wildwood IL
Originally Posted by RPOL68
I have found that that barb of the terminal needs to be facing the outside of the plastic ring or it wont catch. The curvature in the plastic and the terminal does look like it should go the other way. I have found that you don't want to push the button in and let it snap back. That's guaranteed to pop the contacts out the back.
.
.
The barb will push out the backside after a few uses and NOT make contact. Make sure the terminal barbs are sticking out enough before install. After installing them into the plastric, Stick the tip of an exacto knife into the tip of the barb and twist. This will widen the contact tip, further preventing the barb from being pushed back into the plastic. Eddie
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 2,131
Likes: 4
From: May help you? You can sure as hell try!
Another possibility is to use a later model switch. The design changed in the mid-70's and it is much better. The problem with the '68-'74 switch is that the terminals back out as the others have mentioned. Plus, on the drivers side there's two or three (if I recall) terminals that must make contact simultaneously. If one of the terminals sits a little proud of the others, IT makes contact but prevents the spring loaded plunger from making contact with the other terminals. Very dumb design.
The later model switch solves the problem I mentioned and you can't tell the difference appearance-wise once it's installed.
The later model switch solves the problem I mentioned and you can't tell the difference appearance-wise once it's installed.
