Stinger Hood
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 100
Likes: 0
From: Morton Grove Il
Stinger Hood
Mine came from Ecklers. The hood is about 1 1/4" higer then the stock. The scoop is blocked at the front as it was delivered. Being me, I had to open it up with a Dremel tool. I also bought the chrome trim piece that the 67's have. It did not fit well at all , but after grinding and making it a three piece molding. it fits really well. 
I split an old vacuum hose and put it on the bottom of the fiberglass opening. With the scoop open,the air flows right into the engine and since the back of the hood is open.(I did not want the old air dam on it.) This has reduced the cockpit temp by a bunch. The hot air is drawn out the back and goes up the windshield. Very good fit from the factory. Bolted on and very few adjustments were needed. The hood is made from some pretty thick glass and weighs about the same as a stock hood. Not much if any weight savings. But it is strong and does not move at 90.
My avitar shows the hood.
I split an old vacuum hose and put it on the bottom of the fiberglass opening. With the scoop open,the air flows right into the engine and since the back of the hood is open.(I did not want the old air dam on it.) This has reduced the cockpit temp by a bunch. The hot air is drawn out the back and goes up the windshield. Very good fit from the factory. Bolted on and very few adjustments were needed. The hood is made from some pretty thick glass and weighs about the same as a stock hood. Not much if any weight savings. But it is strong and does not move at 90. My avitar shows the hood.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,606
Likes: 1
From: Las Cruces NM
I thought you weren't allowed to get corvettes wet....I think they melt....
I'm not sure how Niart01 has his setup, but it seems like it's just straight through, no baffles. The ram air f-bodies from the 90's and 2000's used a series of baffles. It slows and hinders the airflow, but keeps the water out.
That's GM's solution, anyhow. I'm sure there's more creative ways out there to get the job done.
Chris
I'm not sure how Niart01 has his setup, but it seems like it's just straight through, no baffles. The ram air f-bodies from the 90's and 2000's used a series of baffles. It slows and hinders the airflow, but keeps the water out.
That's GM's solution, anyhow. I'm sure there's more creative ways out there to get the job done.
Chris
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 100
Likes: 0
From: Morton Grove Il
Keeping the water out
I don't drive it in the rain, But when I bought the chrome trim I also bought the block off plate that fits in behind it. I just put it in and run two wing nuts on it and I can block it off. I agree that I have messed with the air flow and by doing what I did probably means less air through the radiator. My car does not have any overheating problems, but you guys are correct that the factory system is sealed for a good reason. I will be going back and looking into making a plate to restrict the flow back into the radiator, the scope will only put air into the carb. So far I have had no adverse affect, but A big block probably would not be so lucky.
Horspower TV had a problem with their Nova, and they made a plate to help with performance.
Horspower TV had a problem with their Nova, and they made a plate to help with performance.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,606
Likes: 1
From: Las Cruces NM
A friend with an '02 Trans Am drilled out the rivets holding the baffles and did the same thing with some wing nuts. He can leave both in, take one set out or both, depending on what he's doing. Generally, both stay in except at the track. He says gas mileage suffers badly with the extra air coming in...computer sees more cool air and bumps up the injector pulses.
Not really an issue with our cars......
Chris
Not really an issue with our cars......
Chris
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 118
Likes: 0
From: Sydney NSW
Thanks particularly Niart01.
I see there are some issues and am still wrestling with whether or not the hood options look better than the original.
Think I might stay with original.
I see there are some issues and am still wrestling with whether or not the hood options look better than the original.
Think I might stay with original.
Race Director
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 10,674
Likes: 122
From: Millington Illinois
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
Originally Posted by Niart01
Mine came from Ecklers. The hood is about 1 1/4" higer then the stock. The scoop is blocked at the front as it was delivered. Being me, I had to open it up with a Dremel tool. I also bought the chrome trim piece that the 67's have. It did not fit well at all , but after grinding and making it a three piece molding. it fits really well. I split an old vacuum hose and put it on the bottom of the fiberglass opening. With the scoop open,the air flows right into the engine and since the back of the hood is open.(I did not want the old air dam on it.) This has reduced the cockpit temp by a bunch. The hot air is drawn out the back and goes up the windshield. Very good fit from the factory. Bolted on and very few adjustments were needed. The hood is made from some pretty thick glass and weighs about the same as a stock hood. Not much if any weight savings. But it is strong and does not move at 90. My avitar shows the hood.
I split an old vacuum hose and put it on the bottom of the fiberglass opening. With the scoop open,the air flows right into the engine and since the back of the hood is open.(I did not want the old air dam on it.) This has reduced the cockpit temp by a bunch. The hot air is drawn out the back and goes up the windshield. Very good fit from the factory. Bolted on and very few adjustments were needed. The hood is made from some pretty thick glass and weighs about the same as a stock hood. Not much if any weight savings. But it is strong and does not move at 90. My avitar shows the hood.
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