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From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Originally Posted by SmokinBBC
Well here it is:
Is the points condenser the same rating as the ignition coil condenser? Are they interchangeable?
Stock '70 454
It's not so much a dumb question, as it is a confusing question. What "rating" are you referring to? Are you trying to decide if the distributor internal condensor is the same as the one attached to the C+ lead? I am familiar with their functions, but I don't know if they have different part numbers. The C+ condensor works to filter the 12 volt line, while the internal one has to deal with voltage spikes of several hundred volts. Very different requirements, but I don't know if GM commonized the part to use in both places. As long as you buy the correct condenser for the application, it should have sufficient capacitance and voltage rating to work in your application. Give me more information if I am misunderstanding what you are trying to determine here.
I'm wondering whether you're confusing the condensor with a capacitor. The condensor is under the distributor cap with the points. The coil probably has a noise suppression capacitor on the mount.
I'm wondering whether you're confusing the condensor with a capacitor. The condensor is under the distributor cap with the points. The coil probably has a noise suppression capacitor on the mount.
Is there a differance.I was told in shop class as a kid that if the points condensor failed to switch the capacitor on the coil from the pos. term. to the neg.and it would get you home.I've used that idea twice and it worked.
Yes - synonyms.
The AIM might shed light on the exact values.
The points only switch the 12v side of the coil.
Both coil and points condenser should be rated higher than 12v,
but not 100s.
I'd bet they are roughly the same value ... likely .1uF to 10uF or so.
Note that old literature will speficy MicroFarads as mF, not uF.
I was with the understanding the points condenser was to prevent arcking
across the points from resude voltage or to prevent premature pit & tit
marking of the contacts. I do know if you get a shorted condenser you
will not run. (ask me how I know.) Also the coil runs at around
9 volts thur a resistor block or wire. In starting the resistor is bypassed as the starter draws the voltage down. In the 60's the mopar
had the resistor block on the firewall and when they got wet some cars would not start even off of the delivery truck. I had a 55 ford crown that would only run in start position and die in run position. My first
repair on an automobile which my uncle told me where to look.
Jayr you got most of it. The Condensor is connected across the contacts on the points and it does protect eht points but its main function is to very quickly collapse the magnetic field in the coil when the points open to fire the coil. A coil works by charging and then quickly discharging the primary side (12v side), when it discharges, it induces a HUGE charge in the secondary side which produces the spark. The coil field would collapse without the condensor, but it wouldn't completely collapse and it wouldn't do it fast and that will produce a weak spark.
Jayr you got most of it. The Condensor is connected across the contacts on the points and it does protect eht points but its main function is to very quickly collapse the magnetic field in the coil when the points open to fire the coil. A coil works by charging and then quickly discharging the primary side (12v side), when it discharges, it induces a HUGE charge in the secondary side which produces the spark. The coil field would collapse without the condensor, but it wouldn't completely collapse and it wouldn't do it fast and that will produce a weak spark.
OK...now where getting somewhere.
Can a condenser go bad? I still have the original condenser on the coil. I replaced the coil when I purchased the car(yes it is the original coil).
A bad condenser=weak spark=back igniting at the plugs=poor performance, fouling, miss, etc. Correct?
Can a condenser go bad? I still have the original condenser on the coil. I replaced the coil when I purchased the car(yes it is the original coil).
A bad condenser=weak spark=back igniting at the plugs=poor performance, fouling, miss, etc. Correct?
Bad condensor on the coil is not a problem for the engine running-that condensor is for the radio
Bad condensor in the distributor is a problem-but I dont think it will run at all when its bad.I'm not 100% about 99.9%
Like I said before if the condensor "in" the dist. goes bad and your stranded on the road -change the "condensor lead" on the coil from the + term. to the - term. and it should run-anybody else ever use this trick?
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Originally Posted by NHvette
.............
The points only switch the 12v side of the coil.
Both coil and points condenser should be rated higher than 12v,
but not 100s..........
There's twelve volts on both sides of the coil prior to dwell. (Measure it.)
The condenser has to consistently deal with voltages much higher than 12 volts. The coil performs like a transformer. Depending on the spark plug breakdown voltage, let's say 20000 volts, and the coil ratio, let's say 100, the voltage at the C- lead (and the condenser) can hit 200 volts (20000/100). If a plug wire falls off, the coil voltage will attempt (until something finally arcs over) to keep rising to perhaps 30kV, 40kV, or whatever, just depends on what coil and primary current you are using. Most of the time the voltages are not this extreme, but the parts have to be designed for worst case conditions.