Procedure question when cutting coil spring
Had many (good) replies about not heating coil springs, so I am not sure if there is any other steps to do, to replace the shorter spring.
Since I added ZZ4, nose sits about 29 inches (fender lip). Would like to get down to 27, thats the plan. Again, thanks for any info.
Had many (good) replies about not heating coil springs, so I am not sure if there is any other steps to do, to replace the shorter spring.
Since I added ZZ4, nose sits about 29 inches (fender lip). Would like to get down to 27, thats the plan. Again, thanks for any info.

When I cut my front springs, I did not heat. Heating the springs takes away their ability to asborb energy, and I didn't want to alter that aspect at all.
How much are you looking to drop?
Here's a fitment tip. Cut in whole coil increments. If you cut one whole coil, you'll get roughly a 1" - 1.5" drop depending on the spring in place. In doing a single coil, both spring ends end up in their place on the perch, and I had no problems getting them to seat properly without the dead end.
They were tricky to get into the perch as the spring has to arch as you raise the lower a-arm. It's easy to have the upper part of the spring sit across the opening the shock goes through. Go slow with the floor jack, and constantly check to make sure the upper part of the spring is still seated. Raise the lower arm a little, and check again.
Once there is some pressure, use a pair of prybars, and coax the lower part of the spring into it's perch, and check again to ake sure the upper part is still in place. It'll pop in with soem help from the pry bars, then just raise the lower arm until the ball joints have enough contact to thread on the nuts. Then, compress the spring enough to get the shock back in, and tighten everything down.
It would get you the drop you want, but there are other issues. The ends of the springs fit into the perches, in little stamped cups for the ends of the springs. If you already have yours out, you can see that it's not a round flat spring perch, but in fact it has an indent for the ends of the springs. If you take out a single full coil, the ends are where they were before and everything lines up. If you cut off an extra half, one of the coil ends won't drop into it's indents.
stock ... 460 ... 550 ... etc.
DurangoBoy describes the wrestling match with a stock spring (longest).
460s or 550s should go in and up with no fight.
Once you've cut off a coil or two, the stockers will be easier to wrestle in.
There is a small sight hole at the end of the upper perch pocket (that the
end of the spring sits in). Once up in place, check this hole to make
sure the top of the coil is still properly seated.
PS - aftermarket 460s are available at most local parts stores for about $50.
IMO - I would start with these. In fact I did ... and am satisfied with
height ... but might lower someday for lowered stance. Currently sitting about 27.5".
http://nhvette.homeunix.com/ftp/in/wheels_06.jpg
If cutting fractions of a coil ... you want the upper perch to be aligned with coil end.
Let the lower fall where it will.
Also, if you don't have the car fully assembled ... do it first.
Mine sat slightly high until I had it all together ... hood, doors, etc.
Last edited by NHvette; Oct 20, 2006 at 11:56 AM.
stock ... 460 ... 550 ... etc.
IMO - I would start with these. In fact I did ... and am satisfied with
height ... but might lower someday for lowered stance. Currently sitting about 27.5".
Also, if you don't have the car fully assembled ... do it first.
Mine sat slightly high until I had it all together ... hood, doors, etc.

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