Ok....it's time to replace the struts on the rear of my 70. Surprise-surprise.....they are frozen in there. i have already purchased the new shock mounts and cam adjusted kits knowing they will get ruined. What is the best way to get the old ones out? If I remove all the bolts, can I just wack the heck on the end of the mount to puch it through the spindle/bearing support where the strut mount to? Could I do damage to the spindle or bearing support? Should I heat the spindle mount holes? Any suggestions are appreciated.

 

Heat is good. Where you most likely need to direct it is not at the bearing support ears (although you might need some there), but at the sleeve that runs through the bushing on the strut rod. I used an oxy/acetylne torch to cook what was left of the rubber out of the way, got the sleeve red hot, set the ears on the jaws of an open bench vice for support, and banged on the end of the shock mount with a BFH (3# drill hammer). It slid out. My shock mounts were a bit pitted, but entirely reuseable. You can get a 3/8" NPT pipe cap at the hardware store to protect the threads and keep the end of the mount from mushrooming.

 

I tried soaking mine with Kroil oil for over a week and a BFH and thread protector still would NOT budge them. I used a propane/MAP torch to melt the rubber out of the way and then used a 4 inch Makita Grinder with a cutoff wheel to cut through most of the bolt. There was some access issues with getting all the way through. I followed up with zawzall but make sure get some high quality carbide blades. That shock mount is tough.

 

Propane and MAPP are nowhere near hot enough. You need to use an Oxy/Acetylene setup to heat the parts enough.

 

if you're going to replace the shock mount and struts anyway, just cut right through them so you can get to the inner bushing sleeve, that's the part that rusts to the shock mount. you can break the spindle ears for sure if you just keep wailing on it till something gives. A cut off wheel on a dremel works real well for slicing through hardened steel.

 

One of the few things that Kroil didnt help me with also... I ended up cutting off the whole end of the shock mount flush and using an oxy torch and an air chisel to get them out.....was the BIGGEST pita on the rear suspention.

 

Try a search on this project. I recall one guy cut the outer strut ring in a couple of places a nd then was able to work at the shock mount bolts ( which are splined and will not twist out. YES, you can damage the spindle support arms.

 

I use a 3"x1/32 cutoff wheel.I put 2 cuts in outer shell and use a chisel to remove.Next is the rubber-remove that with a knife.Then look for the existing split in the inner bushing,use the chisel to open the split.Shoot some penetrant in let set for a few min. and then tap out shock mount.Takes about 20 min. and you wont break the ears off bearing support housing.

 

I would soak them well and use a shock mount removal tool. You can buy it in one of the catalogs or VBP

 

DON'T WASTE YOUR MONEY ON A SHOCK MOUNT TOOL! All it is is a 3/8" NPT pipe cap. Get one at ACE Hardware, Lowe's or Home Depot for $0.75. Just my $0.02.

 

Soak em, put the cap on and hammer em out.

 

I like to put my thoughts about heat from a torch. The post that said
heat from propane or mapp is not hot enough and he is right. But when
you combine mapp with oxygen you have a very hot flame. Now the
60.00 torch you can buy from true value has a very small tip. Therefore
the temp. is same but not much of it. You buy a production torch and
use mapp you can buy all sizes of tips including what they call heating
tips. I worked for an municipality for 30 years and I used mapp for safety reasons as we transported our tanks in back of a pickup. If you
ever seen a picture of a backend of a car blown up from a acetylene tank you will know what I am talking about. I can personally testifly
that mapp & oxygen with a big tip will turn a plow bolt 1 1/2" thick bolt 6" long
cherry red. The very cone tip of acetylene & oxygen is hotter, but 1"
away from the cone and mapp is hotter than acetylene. If you have
a tight spot you usually can not get the torch tip close enough and if
you are using a cutting tip there is a good chance you are going to overheat the tip. I have used my tips for 35 years without replacing
except for a few cutting tips that was cutting 1" plating. As far has cutting the front pivot bolt, I would use a sawzall with a good blade.