Trailing Arm Bolt Removal
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,871
Likes: 6
From: Sault Ste. Marie Ontario
Trailing Arm Bolt Removal
Hi Guys,
I made an attempt to remove my trailing arm bolts yesterday without much sucess. I thought before I got out the torch and hammer tonight, I'd ask the question. Is this the right approach?
Both bolts are frozen in place.
Any advise will be appreciated.
I made an attempt to remove my trailing arm bolts yesterday without much sucess. I thought before I got out the torch and hammer tonight, I'd ask the question. Is this the right approach?
Both bolts are frozen in place.
Any advise will be appreciated.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 5,943
Likes: 3
From: Wildwood IL
Many here will agree, that cutting it out with a good sawzall blade is the way to go. Using a 12" high quality metal or bi-metal blade, and cutting between the shims will take time. That's a grade 8 bolt and is HARD!
Happy sawing...
Eddie
Happy sawing...
Eddie
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,991
Likes: 3
From: Piscataway NJ
Some use a sawsall with a fine blade. While others cautiously use a torch, make sure you have the shims out and mark there location. Have you trid power blaster spray? I would spray the heck out of them. A pia job it is. Use never sieze when you put it back together.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 6,640
Likes: 287
From: Ann Arbor Michigan
Originally Posted by Artsvette73
Some use a sawsall with a fine blade. While others cautiously use a torch, make sure you have the shims out and mark there location. Have you trid power blaster spray? I would spray the heck out of them. A pia job it is. Use never sieze when you put it back together.
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 38,923
Likes: 1,482
From: Southbound
Cruise-In II Veteran
Regardless of the method you choose, tape the shim packs together and mark them. They have to go back in same places in order for the rear toe to get back to approximately where it was when you removed them. It'll help on the drive to the alignment shop.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,321
Likes: 0
From: Reno NV
St. Jude Donor '08
Originally Posted by Easy Mike
Regardless of the method you choose, tape the shim packs together and mark them. They have to go back in same places in order for the rear toe to get back to approximately where it was when you removed them. It'll help on the drive to the alignment shop.
), just make them equal on both sides of the trailing arm and you should be fine getting to the alignment shop.
Race Director
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 10,674
Likes: 122
From: Millington Illinois
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
Removing trailing arm bolts.
Well I just did it 10 minutes ago. Took the day off to talk to the insurance Co, Body shop for quote and get my car off the floor after it was knocked off the jackstands. Working on the car for therapy. I had a long sawsall blade in the box and figured I would give it a shot. Took 5 minutes to cut both sides. Used a Remgrit blade (8" abrasive blade for cast iron) and pb blaster for lube. Walked right through it. I thought this was hard reading all the posts on it but really, Less than 5 minutes for two bolts.
Race Director
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 10,674
Likes: 122
From: Millington Illinois
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
Originally Posted by eastltd
Thanks for the tips guys. I'm off to buy a new sawsall tonight (lent the old one and never got it back). Hopefully the shims are there to count!
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 230
Likes: 0
From: Somewhere in Mo
My most memorable task on my car... thought I'd go the cheap route and bought some Wal-mart 12" cheapo blades... thought I'd die of a heart attack before getting the bolts cut...middle of summer 100 degrees...the blades kept hitting the back of the frame and bending...oh my gosh. Had absolutely NO hide left on my knuckles.. Finally broke down and went and bought the good blades from Home Depot and hacked right through them.
lesson learned.
Timbo
lesson learned.
Timbo
Race Director
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 10,674
Likes: 122
From: Millington Illinois
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
The Remgrit blades have an abrasive on them, no teeth. I first used them to cut a 4" iron soil pipe to tie in a bathroom drain. Went through my 5 pack of bimetal lenox blades and didn't get it done so I went to Home Depot and bought 3 8" Remgrit blades. It went through the pipe like butter. One of these was the one I had left to use today. The only way to go. I have seen a lot of posts on this and never seen them recommended so I thought I would share this valuable information. I remember when I cut the ones out in my 72 with bimetal which was recommended on the forum. Took 3 hours to get out one side.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
I am the rep for Lenox blades in the Mid Atlantic area. Yes the Remgrit blades will work fine on the bolts. A toothed blade will actually cut better and faster than a grit edge blade. The grit is Tungsten Carbide. Therefore they are more expensive than Bimetal blades but they will last almost forever. A good 9 inch Lenox Bimetal blade with 14 or 18 teeth will make quick work of the trailing arm bolts with the proper speed and lubricant. An 8 inch works perfectly so you have to grind off an inch of the tip to fit in just right. I have cut many hardened bolts with just one blade in my many demos of the product.
Cutting Cast Iron soil pipe, a grit edge is about all that will touch it. Most all the grit edge blades are made by Remgrit regardless of whose name is on it.
Cutting Cast Iron soil pipe, a grit edge is about all that will touch it. Most all the grit edge blades are made by Remgrit regardless of whose name is on it.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,321
Likes: 0
From: Reno NV
St. Jude Donor '08
Originally Posted by Gordonm
I am the rep for Lenox blades in the Mid Atlantic area. Yes the Remgrit blades will work fine on the bolts. A toothed blade will actually cut better and faster than a grit edge blade. The grit is Tungsten Carbide. Therefore they are more expensive than Bimetal blades but they will last almost forever. A good 9 inch Lenox Bimetal blade with 14 or 18 teeth will make quick work of the trailing arm bolts with the proper speed and lubricant. An 8 inch works perfectly so you have to grind off an inch of the tip to fit in just right. I have cut many hardened bolts with just one blade in my many demos of the product.
Cutting Cast Iron soil pipe, a grit edge is about all that will touch it. Most all the grit edge blades are made by Remgrit regardless of whose name is on it.
Cutting Cast Iron soil pipe, a grit edge is about all that will touch it. Most all the grit edge blades are made by Remgrit regardless of whose name is on it.
Race Director
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 10,674
Likes: 122
From: Millington Illinois
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
Originally Posted by Gordonm
I am the rep for Lenox blades in the Mid Atlantic area. Yes the Remgrit blades will work fine on the bolts. A toothed blade will actually cut better and faster than a grit edge blade. The grit is Tungsten Carbide. Therefore they are more expensive than Bimetal blades but they will last almost forever. A good 9 inch Lenox Bimetal blade with 14 or 18 teeth will make quick work of the trailing arm bolts with the proper speed and lubricant. An 8 inch works perfectly so you have to grind off an inch of the tip to fit in just right. I have cut many hardened bolts with just one blade in my many demos of the product.
Cutting Cast Iron soil pipe, a grit edge is about all that will touch it. Most all the grit edge blades are made by Remgrit regardless of whose name is on it.
Cutting Cast Iron soil pipe, a grit edge is about all that will touch it. Most all the grit edge blades are made by Remgrit regardless of whose name is on it.
Last edited by 63mako; Oct 23, 2006 at 10:52 PM.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,871
Likes: 6
From: Sault Ste. Marie Ontario
Bought the saw, used the torch. Go figure!!
Had a good night though. Trailing arms are off as is the front end, steering assembly, brake, gas lines and the frame is bare.
Time for the sand blaster.
Had a good night though. Trailing arms are off as is the front end, steering assembly, brake, gas lines and the frame is bare.
Time for the sand blaster.