Now that I have the ignition problem solved....I will go on to the next problem: The starter bendix (starter drive) kicks in but does not engage the flexplate, it just makes a grating noise. I'm assuming that the Bendix is just missing engaging the teeth. The starter had 1 crudely made shim when I unbolted it, and it seemed to be about twice the thickness of the correct shim I replaced it with. Any ideas.

I can't wait to get this problem resolved and go on to the next one .......yeah right.......

 

Here's a good fast way to do it.

Take out any shims, and try to turn it. If there is NO enagement than you know you were just too far out. Put the new shim back in with another. Try again. If you get better engagement, but not enough, add a third until you're satistied with the contact.

 

What was your previous electrical problem?

I ask because from your description, it sounds similar to the problems I had. I was at a track day, and the car started running like crap. It was stumbling and cutting out at high RPM. Then, the starter would not fully engage. I thought it was the starter, so I puller it out. The gear on the starter has broken into multiple pieces. I replace it with a mini starter (all Autozone had that day), but the problem would not go away. The end result was that the old wiring harness had simply given up. The main power distribution coming off the starter lug (the big crimped connection) had finally gotten to the point it could not support the current requirement of the ignition or the starter. To solve the problem, I completely rewired the power distribution. I installed a remote solenoid and relays for the headlights and electric fans at the same time.

Anyway, you may want to check all the wiring to make sure you aren't having a similar problem.

Ken

 

Thanks Durango Boy and Ken for the replies....... I have solved the problem, and it turned out that DB is right on the money. I took out the shim I was using, which turned out to be for a small block Chevy, and hence just the straight thin shim, and replace it with some shims I bought from a local parts store. Well, these new shims are for the big blocks and are skewed so they fit correctly for one thing. And two, the pack contained 3 shims of varying thicknessess: .020, .040., and .060. At first I tried just the .060, but I still had the same problem. After thinking about it, I decided to try both the .060 and .040 shims together.

Also, I replaced the engine wiring and A/C harnessess as part of the mechanical rebuild of the car, so everything there is OK. As usually happens when you dismantle something, things have to go back in a certain way, and they have to be adjusted as per the factory specs.

...... .......woooohhoooo.....finally, the starter engaged the flywheel and the engine turned over. That's it for now; didn't fire the engine up 'cause I still need to tighten up some other thing, and I'm still waiting for a heater core that I had to send back 'cause the solder joint on one of the tubes was cracked.

Boy I can't wait.......... to find out what other gremlins are going to bedevil my life. The only ones I can think of are 1) the tranny might not work properly, since I replaced all the clutches, and put in a trans scat shift improver kit, and 2) I didn't mark the drive shaft when I removed it, so I really don't know how it will be for balance when I put it back on. It will have to be trial and error.

Toodles.........

 

#1: Just make sure it has plenty of fluid in it while waiting for the startup. They can go dry after a rebuild, and parts don't like to move after that. So long as you went slow and followed directions you should be okay.

#2: The driveshaft is balanced as a single entity, and will be balance based on it's own characteristics, not it's relation to the driveline. If it was balanced when it came out, it'll be balanced when it goes back in.

 

Thanks for replies. I started the car and ran it for 30 minutes at 1500 to break in the cam. The Corvette assembly manual called for about 1.87 (about 15-16 pints) gallons of tranny fluid, so that is what I put in. However, it wasn't even showing on the dip stick. I looked at my Haynes Corvette book, and it called for 22 pints of tranny fluid on a completely dry system. So I added the extra. So now my tranny works, at least while it is sitting without the drive shaft on.

Anyway, installed the driveshaft, and was bleeding the brakes, but as you all know, nothing is ever perfect, and I had a leaking claiper. Turned out I had rolled the O-ring when I put the two halves together. Fixed that. Then when I was bleeding again, there was a leak at the fitting on the steel line from the caliper to the rubber hose (at the hose side). Couldn't tighten it enough. So now I have to take the line off eagain. *$%%^&&^@#***........

 

When you installed the torque converter, did you fill it before sliding it on? They will swallow a quart or two all by themselves. It's always a good idea to fill them before installing them.