Seperating ball joints from steering knuckle.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 768
Likes: 3
From: Chicago Burbs IL
Seperating ball joints from steering knuckle.
I am in the process of disassembling my 65 front end and need some advice on safely removing the front control arms and front coil spring. I have used a pickling fork before but as a result of some research in the archives on less damaging procedures I am interested in other methods.
1. There whas a Dec 05 which involves a two hammer approach to freeing the top ball joint from the knuckle using the downward force of the spring coupled with some liberating whacks with a BFH. This makes geometric sense but, how do I seperate the lower ball joint from the knuckle?
2. I am also interested in other safety measures in dealing with the compressed spring. I have taken past posters advice by compressing the spring upward using two thirds of an internal spring compressor (treaded rod and one hook) routed up through the shock tower hole. This is a nice compression technique. Note that the motor is already out of the car and the springs are therefore fully sprung, so using the car weight to compress the spring is not an option; not to mention the car is up on a kwik lift. The pic shows the threaded safety cable through the spring up around the front crossmember. This is ok until I have to lower the lower control arm to remove the spring.
Anyhow...your advice is appreciated.
1. There whas a Dec 05 which involves a two hammer approach to freeing the top ball joint from the knuckle using the downward force of the spring coupled with some liberating whacks with a BFH. This makes geometric sense but, how do I seperate the lower ball joint from the knuckle?
2. I am also interested in other safety measures in dealing with the compressed spring. I have taken past posters advice by compressing the spring upward using two thirds of an internal spring compressor (treaded rod and one hook) routed up through the shock tower hole. This is a nice compression technique. Note that the motor is already out of the car and the springs are therefore fully sprung, so using the car weight to compress the spring is not an option; not to mention the car is up on a kwik lift. The pic shows the threaded safety cable through the spring up around the front crossmember. This is ok until I have to lower the lower control arm to remove the spring.
Anyhow...your advice is appreciated.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,246
Likes: 0
From: PA
I'm not sure if this is the right way but here is how i did it...
I used a internal spring compressor like you have(was a PITA to get in) then tied a chain around the frame and lower control arm just to make sure nothing was gonna go flying. Then i loosened one of the nuts on a ball joints (but did not take it all the way off). Finally using a forked ball joint remover I beat the hell out of it until she popped. Then obviously fully remove the nut, then spring and finish disassembling.
I used a internal spring compressor like you have(was a PITA to get in) then tied a chain around the frame and lower control arm just to make sure nothing was gonna go flying. Then i loosened one of the nuts on a ball joints (but did not take it all the way off). Finally using a forked ball joint remover I beat the hell out of it until she popped. Then obviously fully remove the nut, then spring and finish disassembling.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 768
Likes: 3
From: Chicago Burbs IL
yep...that works...
Originally Posted by Corvette69w427
I'm not sure if this is the right way but here is how i did it...
I used a internal spring compressor like you have(was a PITA to get in) then tied a chain around the frame and lower control arm just to make sure nothing was gonna go flying. Then i loosened one of the nuts on a ball joints (but did not take it all the way off). Finally using a forked ball joint remover I beat the hell out of it until she popped. Then obviously fully remove the nut, then spring and finish disassembling.
I used a internal spring compressor like you have(was a PITA to get in) then tied a chain around the frame and lower control arm just to make sure nothing was gonna go flying. Then i loosened one of the nuts on a ball joints (but did not take it all the way off). Finally using a forked ball joint remover I beat the hell out of it until she popped. Then obviously fully remove the nut, then spring and finish disassembling.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,246
Likes: 0
From: PA
Originally Posted by Talisman51
This would work to free the lower control arm from the upper ball joint. Would you then just use the fork to remove the lower ball joint from the knuckle?
OTHER ADVICE: Dont waste your time trying to drill out the shaft's rubber bushings. I messed around doing that for an hour or so then grabbeds a MAPP gas torch and melted them suckers out in 5 minutes.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 768
Likes: 3
From: Chicago Burbs IL
thanks..
you saved me some time on the MAPP gas trick for sure...BTW...I have some original dated 69 shocks. Is that the kind of thing you would be interested in? They are early 69..so they would be right for a mid to late 70.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,672
Likes: 1
From: New Cumberland PA
I used a pickel fork on one side. Had the beat the sheit out of it. Then bought a tie rod puller for the other side. Much, much easier that way. I just kept the nut on, but loosened. It only took a minute.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,107
Likes: 14
From: Lancaster PA
I use the 2 hammer method for the upper and lower ball joints. It always worked for me. When I was installing my springs before the engine was installed I installed a brace between the frame and the ceiling of my garage so I could compress it.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 11,874
Likes: 263
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
Originally Posted by I'm Batman
Best tool ever made for dealing with ball joints and tie rod ends. 
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
Likes: 10
From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
Originally Posted by bobs77vet
from JC whitney over 20 yrs ago.....
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 768
Likes: 3
From: Chicago Burbs IL
still make em...but
These were available at local auto parts store for loan. Included two jaw model (top left) which appears similar to those posted above. Works great on tie rods, but I had trouble getting it on the ball joints. Jaw seems too thick to get between ball joint and steering knuckle. Hmmmmmmmmm.....
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 27
From: Boca Raton Florida
The two hammer method once learned is the way to go, takes about 5 seconds, I can have the joints seperated before you can get the box open.
takes 2 heavy hammers, 4 lb short handle BFH.
Hold one head against one side of the joint, smack the other side with the other hammer, joint falls off. Loosten the nut on the ball joint but leave it on, that will keep the spring from braining you, lower it with floor jack.
takes 2 heavy hammers, 4 lb short handle BFH.
Hold one head against one side of the joint, smack the other side with the other hammer, joint falls off. Loosten the nut on the ball joint but leave it on, that will keep the spring from braining you, lower it with floor jack.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 768
Likes: 3
From: Chicago Burbs IL
Works on upper but...
Agree, the two hammer worked for me on seperating the upper ball joint shaft from the knuckle. I believe the downward spring force is a big reason why it works on the upper. With the lower there is only minimal downward force exerted by the weight of the knuckle and upper control arm. I will give it another few whacks today....maybe those Wheaties have kicked in by now..
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
Likes: 10
From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
Originally Posted by Talisman51
These were available at local auto parts store for loan. Included two jaw model (top left) which appears similar to those posted above. Works great on tie rods, but I had trouble getting it on the ball joints. Jaw seems too thick to get between ball joint and steering knuckle. Hmmmmmmmmm.....
