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I guess its possible that my return springs are stronger than some here. I use a double return spring for its fail safe capability. If there isn't much tension on the throttle arm at idle its quite possible that the idle solenoid will have enough force to move the throttle arm on the carb. There may even be other factors such as drag on the throttle cable. Every one of these cars are different and what works on one may not work on others.
On my 71 Coupe it is a "bump up the idle when the AC compressor is running solenoid", cause I wired it that way.
They work great for compensating for the AC Compressor, though again it's not strong enough to bump the idle so you'll have to do that with your foot initially...
Doug
Originally Posted by theandies
The name is "Idle Stop Solenoid" not "Bump up the idle when the AC compressor is running solenoid". My '71 non-AC car had it but it's long gone.
You guys got to look on how its wired to what the purpose is for the
solenoid. If its for anti-dieseling, it will be hot while the key is on. They
will not push up the idle speed by them selfs but will lock when you
open up the throttle. The air cond. idle compensator is speed the idle
up when air conditioner is used. Also I don't think it moves the throttle
plate but locks when you open the throttle. Both are set for idle adjustment, one when the air is on, the other when the engine is running. The anti-dieseling is the idle speed adjuster, usually by
moving the solenoid or screwing the hex head. Make sure your manual
idle screw is turn out so it does not control the idle. The air idle speed
is adjusted I think the same way exept only when the air is on. The
hot idle speed screw on the carb is for the hot idle. I have seen pictures of some having vac. hose to it but have never seen one.
The idle solenoid was also used on non-A/C cars as an "anti-dieseling" solenoid. The idle speed was set using the solenoid hex adjustment, and the idle speed screw on the carb was set to a very low (about 450 rpm) idle speed. When the engine was shut off, the solenoid would close the throttle and prevent engine run-on after shut down.
If you have 12 volts to the solenoid, it should "snap" out to the extended position, regardless of A/C situation. If not, it is defective.
This is exactly how mine operates. It is a '72 BB with factory air, the ac has nothing to do with the solenoid it is strickly for anti-dieseling.
Greg.
Its possibe that BB would not put as much load with the air on has a SB
I have had 4 cylinders that feel like you lost a cylinder when you kick the air on. That why they have a idle speed up solenoid. I still like the
computor control idle speed motor when they are working right. Even
the stick shift at a stop sign is eaiser to maintain idle. I had a Falcon
Sprint that had a switch on the power steering hoses for speed up
when you turned the wheel.
The idle solenoid was also used on non-A/C cars as an "anti-dieseling" solenoid. The idle speed was set using the solenoid hex adjustment, and the idle speed screw on the carb was set to a very low (about 450 rpm) idle speed. When the engine was shut off, the solenoid would close the throttle and prevent engine run-on after shut down.
If you have 12 volts to the solenoid, it should "snap" out to the extended position, regardless of A/C situation. If not, it is defective.
This is exactly how my solenoid is working. With the key off, I pushed the solenoid back in and when the key was turned on, it snapped out to position. The hex head does not contact the linkage in any way. Should I mess with it, or leave it alone?