How hard is it for a fledgling mechanic (me) to replace the original riveted balljoints?

I have heard horror stories about torches, drillng chissleing and that it is not much fun.

Is this something I want to send out to a mechanic? I am leary of doing this 'cuz its hard to find a good mechanic .

Any advice?

Thanks,
pivan

 

Actually getting the ball joints out isn't at all difficult. You just center-punch the rivits and drill out the head with a good sharp bit, then punch the rivit body out.

The hard part may be just getting to the point where you can execute this minor operation. I can't judge your mechanical ability, but I can say that if you've never done suspension work or you lack all the tools to do it, you may want to carefully review the entirety of this task before you start beating on things. After than, move very carefully.

 

I did a rebuild on the front end of my '65 Buick Special. I am not an experienced mechanic, but I like to do all my own work on my hobby cars. It wasn't that bad at all. It took me a weekend, and I did it all by myself. You can do it!

 

I cut the old rivets off mine with a freshly-sharpened cold chisel, then punched the remaining stub out. Quick and easy, just 2 or 3 whacks with the Ford Tool (big f'ing hammer :D ) on the chisel and the punch. Just be careful - those rivet heads fly like bullets when you cut them off.

You'll have to enlarge the rivet hole slightly with a drill bit, to accept the bolts for the new ball joint. They're 5/16" if I remember right.

All together, here's what you'll need: jack, jack stand, spring compressor (you can make your own, I'll tell you how if you want), ratchet/socket set, torque wrench, pliers, flat blade screwdriver, side cutters (for old cotter pins), hammer, cold chisel, punch, drill with 5/16 or 21/64 bit, grease gun, a piece of wire for hanging the caliper, and beer. A seal puller is nice, because you'll probably want to replace the spindle grease seal. Some brake cleaner or mineral spirits, to clean the rotor before you reinstall the caliper, is good. And of course you'll have new cotter pins. [Edit: Oh, yeah, I forgot the obvious - a ball joint separator ("pickle fork"). And as Norval correctly points out below, you don't need the spring compressor if you leave the shock in, because it will act as a safety to capture the spring if your jack slips out from under the lower control arm. Thanks Norval!]

Personally, I can't imagine going to the trouble of replacing the ball joints without taking a hard look at the shocks, tie rod ends, idler arm, and control arm bushings. That's where things start to get out of hand... :eek:

Good luck! :seeya


[Modified by Gator81, 3:06 PM 9/19/2001]

 

I used my air hammer to break those rivets out. Then I farmed it out to get the new ones pressed in.

If you are going to that trouble, you might as well rebuild the front end completely ...front end rebuild kit, 2 coil springs, 2 shocks -= about $400

 

I have done this years ago to my vet and I DON'T remember needing a spring compressor. A jack under the lower control arm yes but a spring compressor NO. I am getting old and forgetful.
Norval

 

Norval, I have a lot of respect for your experience and knowledge, so I won't say you're wrong. I just like to have that spring captured and under control when the ball joint stud pops out of the steering knuckle. Do you use a chain or something similar for safety when you have the jack under the control arm holding the spring pressure?

 

Just get a long piece of ready bolt and install in holes from where shock is, use flat whashers and nut on top and bottom, allow extra length for travel and lower control arm. The ready bolt will keep the spring from going to far, if it wants to go anywhere at all.

 

Even though I do most work myself, I let a local mechanic do ball joints for me. He does them for $75. I would be cussing the better half of a day to do the same job so for the money it's not worth your time unless you are broke.

 

Ok- I did mine(upper only) last weekend. First no you do not need a spring compressor if you are only goting
to do the top ones. The sway bar and shock do not need to be removed and they will hold the lower
control arm in place so the spring will not shoot out. You can not remove the upper control arms
to replace the bushings w/o removing the Radiator Shroud and radiator first. Try it I didl...
no one told me...found out the hard way :mad ....I used a dremel to cut off the heads of the rivets
then i center puched them and drilled them out. THey do not Just POP out if they are original
unless your car has very low mileage and No rust onthem. My advice...try to do the upper
first, if you can do this go ahead and tackle the lower on another weekend. If you cant do the upper
the lower will be too much for you to handle. Buy or rent a ball joint seperator. Hope this helps
a little e-mail me for more details.-Travis

 

GATOR81 I just don't remember having to use a spring compressor or anything else. I thought the jack under the lower control arm kept the spring from poping out. The shock would also help control the spring. Honestly I don't do alot of them, I have done my 4 and don't remember any problems. Sorry for missleading others.
Norval