I am pretty handy in taking care of my car keeping everything working and right now my car runs great... I fix things as they break as you can seem if you've read any of my previous posts.

I've been reading a lot of these posts and I see a lot of timing issues and people with wiped cam lobe issues... I don't have expericence in any of this kind of stuff.

I'm concerned that since my motor was last rebuilt problably in the 80's that I am looking at trouble in the future... How often do things like timing and cam problems happen? I've never touched the timing, and I just hoping it doesnt go out of whack by itself... And I am just hoping that changing the oil, adjusting the lifters when they start clanking and keeping everything clean will keep the cam and lifters in good shape, and keep from spinning a bearing or something.

Hoping someone can help out my mind at ease

 

Never for me. I've never had a cam problem and have never had anything other than an old, worn out timing chain which was not a problem since I had already planned to rebuild the engine.

If you keep up regular maintenance on your car and drive sensibly, you ought to be okay.

 

Usually a wiped cam lobe will happen within the first 1000 miles on a hyd cam. This is due to improper lube at break in. If your cam has 2000+ miles onit chances of a wiped lobe are pretty slim. Now if you are pushing 40K + miles you might just be getting normal cam wear and the lobes are getting smaller but this is rare also. Roller cams different story due to high spring pressure and roller failure.

Timing issue is rare tha tit goes way out but it will go out over time dueto wear in the dist. Just keep it timed with a light and you should be OK.

Bensalem is almost next door to me. I am over in that area quite often. One of the reps I used to work with used to live in Bensalem.

 

I agree 100 percent. I've been driving since the 60's and have never had to take an engine apart other than for swaping out the timing chain and gears. I should add that I keep my cars for a long time. I still have my '76 Vette (bought in '77, now with 95K miles) and just sold my '69 Grand Prix a few years back (250K miles). I also have a '91 Mark VII which I bought new that has over 150K miles on it. Keep all your fluids fresh ( I like synthetics) and don't run the crap out of your car, and you should not have to worry about such things.

 

Well i recently replaced the distro cap due to just my version of normal maintence... I didnt adjust anything when I got the new distro cap and everything still runs great. My cam has plenty of miles... prob not 40k. Not sure what kind of lifters I have, and the cam sounds big and not stock. Like I said I make lifter adjustments rarely, but if I do its when I hear clanking... I adjust it to GM specs (whether its righ or not I don't know) but when I made the adjustment, the clanking was gone...(or at least the normal loudness solid lifter are supposidly supposed to make), and the car still runs great... I never tested timeing because I have no idea how and I don't have a timing light... I don't know how to tell if I need a new chain, but this seems to be a simple operation as long as I can get the cover back on with no leaks.

Like I said... right now my motor runs great. I ran the car at englishtown this summer and ran 13.48, so I guess it performs well too. A little smoke, when cold but goes away once warmed up... and a little smoke when I really punch it.... doesn't burn much oil, and i think most of the oil loss is through valve cover, which I'm replacing and the rear seal, which I'm replacing.

I just hope that the head gaskets and intake gaskets keep up!

If your a vette guy in my area (I recently moved to Bensalem), maybe one day we can get together split some beers and work on our cars

 

Sounds like you have nothing to worry about. Don't go looking for problems or projects to do. Timing chains last a looong time. Usually 100K+ miles. The timing issue should be OK. It would be wise to sometime get a light on it to see where it is. You might be giving up some HP if it is off. A little smoke is no problem, as long as you are not crop dusting every time you take off you should be fine. Head gaskets and intake gaskets should be fine. They rarely need replacing under normal conditions. A get together would be fine. Maybe we can get you in the low 13s or high 12s with a little tune.

Just reread your post. You have a solid cam in there? Are you adjusting it with feeler gauges or just by sound. I hope it is with feeler gauges if it is a solid cam.

 

I don't adjust by sound... I make an adjustment when I hear it getting noisy. When I do make the adjustment, I do it with the engine off, but warm (or as warms as it will be by the time I get the valve covers off and ready to make adjustment). Using a feeler gauge I make the adjustment to each when that respective piston is at TDC. I don't know what the adjustment is off hand, but I adjusted it to what GM says for the Intake and exhaust respectively. Not sure if that is correct adjustment, since I don't know what kind of cam or lifters I have (I do know it's solid lol), but when I'm finished, the clanking is to a down to a noise level that I've been told is normal for solid lifter... so I am guesssing the adjustment is good.

 

Even with an after-market hyd. cam you shouldn't have to be re-adjusting your valve lash. Hyd. adjustment is typically done with the engine at idle, va. covers off loosen until tapping is heard; tighten until tapping stops and tighten...some say a 1/2 turn....some say 3/4 turn.

The procedure you are describing is for a flat tappet cam. If you are using this procedure on a hyd. cam, which run with a slight preload as described above, there shouldn't be any clearence.

If you have a flat tappet cam then there is an issue that has surface and can be further researched on any aftermarket cam manufacturering web site. I can't remember the exact additive that has been removed from oil, but it does cause premature cam failure. Just be forwarned there are 2 very divided camps as to what to do about it, and it seems the snake-oil salesmen "appear" to be making this a bigger issue.

Another thing to keep an eye on is if your cam is running a lot of lift, whether hyd. or flat tappet, this can lead to pulling the pressed-in studs out of the stock heads. Just pay a little attention when you have the valve covers off that all of the studs are on the same plain.

 

It is the zinc that has been removed from the oil that is wiping out cams.

You really should get the specs from the cam. It is going to be tough not knowing what is in the car. the GM specs are in the .026 range my solid cam is .016. There is a difference.

 

I'm new to roller cams with roller rockers. I have done the above many times, but I don't know if the same holds true for a roller cam, hyd. roller lifters, and a set of roller rockers. Can I set the lash the same way?