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There was a recent post about someone painting some L-82 valve covers, orange I think . I tried a search no luck maybe they will chime in
What is your question? If it is how to paint them, I did mine by using stripper and then primed and painted with Chevy orange. They came out very nice if I do say so myself.
What is your question? If it is how to paint them, I did mine by using stripper and then primed and painted with Chevy orange. They came out very nice if I do say so myself.
I stripped them, then sanded, then primed with engine paint primer, then 2 coats of Chevy Orange engine paint, then 2 coats of Clear engine paint.
Bake in the oven at 200F for 30 minutes to cure. Skip this step if married.
The paint won't peel if the job is done correctly. I've painted chrome valve covers and they held up fine. To do it right, strip any paint that is currently on them. Then scuff them up with a medium grade steel wool and clean them well with soap and water. Then dry and keep your fingers off them. Then spray with a good primer and follow with a couple of top coats of Chevy orange. Good luck.
here's what they used to look like when I bought the car....
I used the 500 deg temp paint along with 3 coats of clear 500deg....let me konw what ya'll think! I've painted the valve covers on my grand prix the same way and they've held up well.......hope this helps you out even thought they aren't orange anymore!...
You posted the same question in General.
L-82 valve covers are semi flat black with silver accents. LT-1s used the same covers, but were not painted.
My 77 L-82 has non-painted finned covers that I'm almost positive are the ones that came on the car when new. I too was contemplating painting them. I tried polishing them but didn't get the result I wanted. Right now I'm running chrome covers until I get the originals presentable looking.
I haven't painted any valve covers, but I have powder coated them, and I like to pre-bake any porous metals to try to purge out any moisture and light oils that may seep into the finish. Usually I'll do this at the curing temp of the powder about 400 degrees for about 20 minutes. This should work well for painting too. Afterwards just wipe down with a tack rag (after cooling of course) and prime and paint.