Cleaning the inside of the diff
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 851
Likes: 10
From: Palm City, FL
Cleaning the inside of the diff
I don't want to do anything stupid so I need to ask first.
I have the diff out of the car, for the purpose of finding out why the pass side yoke has play. It turns out that both yoke are fine with little to no wear on the ends, just the c-clip is missing from the pass side.
So I am going to replace the c-clips for both yokes, and since I'm in there I'm going to inspect the all the gears for wear and chips, preplace the seals, etc.
First I want to clean all the old oil out... since I didn't find any sign of the missing c-clip.
What can I use to clean all the old oil out? Can I spay carb cleaner or gas in there???
I am very hessitant to take the carrier out... It looks like its only 4 bolts, but as of now the diff is in good working order. Parts are expensive and I am afraid if I take it out I won't be able to get it back in correctly, so I will be cleaning it out with the carrier in.
Thanks!
I have the diff out of the car, for the purpose of finding out why the pass side yoke has play. It turns out that both yoke are fine with little to no wear on the ends, just the c-clip is missing from the pass side.
So I am going to replace the c-clips for both yokes, and since I'm in there I'm going to inspect the all the gears for wear and chips, preplace the seals, etc.
First I want to clean all the old oil out... since I didn't find any sign of the missing c-clip.
What can I use to clean all the old oil out? Can I spay carb cleaner or gas in there???
I am very hessitant to take the carrier out... It looks like its only 4 bolts, but as of now the diff is in good working order. Parts are expensive and I am afraid if I take it out I won't be able to get it back in correctly, so I will be cleaning it out with the carrier in.
Thanks!
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 16,945
Likes: 9
Brake cleaner works wonders on old grime
If you install the new clips take a good look at them, you will see that one side has sharp edges where the opposite side has a bevel on it, you want the sharp side on the thrust side
If you install the new clips take a good look at them, you will see that one side has sharp edges where the opposite side has a bevel on it, you want the sharp side on the thrust side
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,991
Likes: 3
From: Piscataway NJ
Make sure you put the snap ring on correctly. If you look at the outer edge of the ring, one side will have a small radius, and other side will be flat. The flat side should face to the outside towards the yoke. If it were me I would replace the clutch pack while it's out. The thrust washers also seem to go south and the pin. All are still available from the General. You wont have to take the hole unit apart. You work through the sguare hole in the carrier.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 851
Likes: 10
From: Palm City, FL
Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
Brake cleaner works wonders on old grime
If you install the new clips take a good look at them, you will see that one side has sharp edges where the opposite side has a bevel on it, you want the sharp side on the thrust side
If you install the new clips take a good look at them, you will see that one side has sharp edges where the opposite side has a bevel on it, you want the sharp side on the thrust side
Since you prob would know... where do I get the c-clips? I know I could get them at a hardware store or something, but if the ones for the corvette are some kind of "special" clip with a special metal, I need to know where I can buy them.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,175
Likes: 3,990
From: Connecticut, USA
Those are snap ring and are available from a bearing supplier. You are wise not to remove the carrier as the side shims are cast and will probably break if you try and hammer them back in unless you have a case spreader. That's why the kits use steel shims.
If you change the posi clutches you're better off going through the whole job.
If you change the posi clutches you're better off going through the whole job.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 851
Likes: 10
From: Palm City, FL
Originally Posted by gtr1999
Those are snap ring and are available from a bearing supplier. You are wise not to remove the carrier as the side shims are cast and will probably break if you try and hammer them back in unless you have a case spreader. That's why the kits use steel shims.
If you change the posi clutches you're better off going through the whole job.
If you change the posi clutches you're better off going through the whole job.
I only "planned" on replacing the c-clips and seals, which I know I can do without taking the carrier out. And I understand that the c-clips need to go in with the flat side toward the outside/toward the yoke.
Are these "special" c-clips? Or can I just get them at a hareware store or auto store?
Some of you are saying to replace the clutch pack... how do I know if it needs it? As I said, other than the c-clips, the diff seems to be in good working order. When I turn the diff by either the yoke or pinion, the posi seems to be nice and tight. When I try to move the yokes in opposite direction, I can't unless I use some leverage on each yoke and use a good bit of strength.
What about the trust washers? I don't know what that is.
The pin I am assumung is the pin between the spider gears? From what I can see it appears to have little to no wear... how do I know if this is bad?
All comments and suggestions are welcome, but I must say that this is the first time I've opened a diff, and while I know the concept of how a limited slip diff works, I dont have the indept knowledge.
Racer
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 313
Likes: 0
From: Fairfield PA
Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
Brake cleaner works wonders on old grime
If you install the new clips take a good look at them, you will see that one side has sharp edges where the opposite side has a bevel on it, you want the sharp side on the thrust side
If you install the new clips take a good look at them, you will see that one side has sharp edges where the opposite side has a bevel on it, you want the sharp side on the thrust side
Also used brake cleaner, worked great!
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Intermediate
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
From: Bel Air MD
Hi there.....I initially used rags to wipe the inside of the carrier bottom, where most of any of the war particles and oxidized gear lube accumulate. Then I generously sprayed the whole thing with CRC brake clean, and then used pressurized air to blow every thing dry. I did this several times to make sure everey last bit of muck was out.
As for the missing yoke clip...I would have the whole carrier taken apart until you locate the clip, or whatever is left of it. After all your troubles to cleanthe carrier it and replace the clip, the last thing you want is for that "missing clip" to find its way into one of the gears and jam something which would cost you dearly to repair or replace.
My 2 pennies.........
As for the missing yoke clip...I would have the whole carrier taken apart until you locate the clip, or whatever is left of it. After all your troubles to cleanthe carrier it and replace the clip, the last thing you want is for that "missing clip" to find its way into one of the gears and jam something which would cost you dearly to repair or replace.
My 2 pennies.........
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,175
Likes: 3,990
From: Connecticut, USA
The snap ring is .065' thick, 1.100" ID and 1.300" OD
I called my local bearing house but they didn't have them in stock.
Here it is
Use these to install
Here is what they look like installed with under .005 endplay
I called my local bearing house but they didn't have them in stock.
Here it is
Use these to install
Here is what they look like installed with under .005 endplay
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 851
Likes: 10
From: Palm City, FL
Originally Posted by gtr1999
The snap ring is .065' thick, 1.100" ID and 1.300" OD
I called my local bearing house but they didn't have them in stock.
Here it is
Use these to install
Here is what they look like installed with under .005 endplay
I called my local bearing house but they didn't have them in stock.
Here it is
Use these to install
Here is what they look like installed with under .005 endplay
I have that tool.
.005 endplay is the space between the end of the yoke and the spider gear pin right? Can I use a feeler gauge (same feeler gauge as for solid lifter adustment) to measure?
Thanks again.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 851
Likes: 10
From: Palm City, FL
Thanks!!
I have that tool.
.005 endplay is the space between the end of the yoke and the spider gear pin right? Can I use a feeler gauge (same feeler gauge as for solid lifter adustment) to measure?
Thanks again.
I can't find anyone with the c-clips... can I get them from a hardware store or something?
I have that tool.
.005 endplay is the space between the end of the yoke and the spider gear pin right? Can I use a feeler gauge (same feeler gauge as for solid lifter adustment) to measure?
Thanks again.
I can't find anyone with the c-clips... can I get them from a hardware store or something?